20 Most Recent 1992 Ford F250 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Yes, the water should be coming thru the hoses. Only 2 things cause water to circulate. They are the water pump (naturally) and the thermostat. If both are good or have been changed, the only thing I can think of is an air pocket in the cooling system. Would need to touch some things before I could tell you more. Good luck.

george, 1st did you replace the fuel filter , take it off and shake it and dump it out into a bowl to see whats going on in your fuel tank, then a pressure fuel test would be nice, and then a spark test.. could be coil or the tfi on the distributor .

You probably need to start over...1st by bench bleeding the master cylinder...(you can do this on your truck...review the bleeding instructions...after completing this you need to be sure the master cylinder is full of brake fluid...you will need a helper...but your next step will be to bleed each wheel brake caliper or cylinder. Start with the right rear, next left rear, then right front to drivers side front...(farthest away to start) you may have a brake fluid leak...if not, your pedal pressure should continually raise...Hope this helps.

Hello, You could have several problems. The Radiator can be clogged for the transmission cooling lines. The internal filter in the trans could need cleaning. Your rear Emergency brakes could be dragging. Check for missing heat shields on the Catalytic converters which if gone, could be toasting your trans.

Add a transmission cooler to the system. The aftermarket also has several trans pan upgrades having cooling fins or cooling tubes built into them.

There are several reports of trans failure with 1 owner replacing 7 transmissions. This is about all I can supply for you at this time. I hope my info is very helpful.

Not sure what you are trying to do. The plate behind the torque converter would be the flywheel. It is bolted to the crankshaft in the center. There should be bolts around the outer edge to take loose. If you think you have bent that plate you will need a new one as it will cause problems once it is all back together. The converter, once all the outer bolts are out, may have to be pried off the flywheel / crankshaft pilot as this is a very tight fit. The pilot is a center support of the converter.

check your fuses and replace any blown

Hello, When you installed the Key core, you probably turned the core 180 degrees off. There is also the spring release at the bottom of the Ignition switch. You may not have fully seated the core into the Ignition switch.

The part on the bottom was connected to the Ignition switch through the column. You may have to pull the Ignition switch again or at least remove the plastic steering column cover to align the bottom switch with the top where it connects to the Ignition key.

The lower switch you replaced is part of the Interlock system. It makes sure the trans gear is correct(in Park or Neutral) and that the brake pedal is pushed. If this is a stick-shift then there can be a switch on the clutch pedal. But that switch would not physically keep the key from turning.

Depending on the connection for the Ignition switch, you need to see if the attachment for the rod or cable which runs through the column is set 180 degrees off. Sometimes with having to disconnect and reconnect the Battery to get the electric releases to allow turning of the key, you can get out of sync with the column rod or cable.

That could happen and you installed the parts on the wrong side of the attachments, once you powered up the system, it locked you out.

When you say ignition switch do you mean the electrical switch that is at the bottom to of the steering column? or the lock cylinder the key goes in? Here is the procedure for replacing the ignition switch.
Ignition Switch

Removal & Installation

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the steering column shroud unbolt (2 15mm nuts) and lower the steering column.

3. Detach the ignition switch electrical hardness connector.

4. Remove 2 nuts retaining the ignition switch to the steering column housing (lower top of the column).

5. Lift the ignition switch upward to disengage the actuator rod from the switch and remove the switch.

Hello,
I read your problem. From what i understand your truck is running hot on the freeway, even after replacing thermostat.There is several things that can cause a engine to run hot, besides the thermostat.

Here is a few things to check;

The radiator over times can get partially clogged, almost like jets on fuel injection system does. A lot of times we do not have the proper mixture of water and antifreeze which can cause breakdown of metals and small particles in side the coils and tubes of the radiator that will cause build up, almost like tarter on someones teeth. This of course will cause restrictions. Solution to this in most cases is a simple radiator flush. The service center of your choice , will flush the system by putting it under pressure and at same time can see if it is flowing smoothly and properly.


The other thing to look at is any restrictions of main hoses. From thermostat to upper radiator hose and to lower radiator hose.

The other thing, sometimes cause this is sporadic operation of water pump. Meaning working now and then. Can be worn out, of not putting proper water pressure to provide to the cooling system.

Another thing that can cause this running hot issue, can be a head gasket leak, even a small one can cause it to heat up.

Another thing that can cause engine running hot, is the fan not turning on to high speed when engine thermostat requires it. Meaning, that your thermostat is based on opening at a certain engine coolant temperature, then of course the fan goes in to high speed to help cool, and if the fan is not kicking into high speed then that will cause it to heat up or run hot. Have to test that when car is idling and then as it reaching the certain temperature, then the fan should kick on high. I would check fuses on this and make sure relay is kicking this on based on thermostat.

Conclusion: I think, that if you just flush your radiator and make sure the antifreeze and water mixture is correct, and fan is working properly, which any service shop can do this for under 100 bucks, this will solve the problem. I hope this helps Mike from fixya.

Check rubber return lines running from injectors to back of engine. Hoses maybe cracked and allowing air in the system causing hard long starting.

Someone may have poured an additive into the transmission such as Sea-foam. No way for fuel to get into transmission unless someone poured it in.