2004 Ford F150 - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Need to run codes on this one as there is a couple of things that are in trouble. Try a auto parts house as it is free.

Door panels are held in place by a 'nail' looking thing that you have to pry out of the door using a flat pry bar (screwdriver could work but might mess things up a bit) along the bottom and sides of door. You'll need to remove armrest by exposing the screws.

The #8 coil and spark plug are located on the drivers side rear of the engine. You will need a 7mm socket to remove the bolt that holds the coil down. After the bolt is out, pull the coil upwards and remove. Next you will need a 9/16" spark plug socket to remove the spark plug which is located in the hole that the coil came out of. The spark plugs in a 5.4L engine are sometimes frozen into the engine. If it is very hard to turn the plug, try spraying some WD-40 down the hole onto the plug and let it soak in for a while. Do not try to force the plug to turn, it will break and a special plug extractor will be needed to remove it.
Hope this helps you!

Each power outlet has its own fuse. The fuses are F2.2, 3,4,5,and 12. They are in the fuse box near the battery. Your owners manual should have the details.

The unit is connected by small set of gears that push tray /disc out. As tray comes out it either pushes disc out of slot or pops open door (depending on which style of face you have). If you have kids I would not be surprised if something is caught in between disc and face or jamming edge of door. (know this from own experience). The face of player can usually be carefully popped off by gently prying at corners. If you get face off you may be able to see if something is stuck in unit that does not belong, or see if a piece is broken loose near face. If unit has door that opens you can try using a slim but stiff piece of plastic and keep tension on door with plastic while hitting eject button. On some units there is a small hole on face that is manual release that ejects disc - even if no power. Usually takes a long straight push in hole (straightened paper clip or dental pick) and it manually pushes gear set to go out. So many of these units are different but most do have a manual release. Check owners manual to see if it shows a picture of face and possible release hole. Have had kids fight over changing a disc and pushed in on it while it was ejecting so it stripped gears, and had kid hang on ceiling mount unit that tore screen totally off. I feel your pain....

First look under truck for ground straps that go from frame to bed to see if one rotted or fell off. Bed usually has at least one ground strap. What is weird is that if no ground at all neither side would work. If light socket has 3 wires coming to it then ground could also be coming in through harness from far away. Yours is odd because usually ground is same for both sides. If you have no other choice find the two wires with power (you said you did this already) and cut the third (ground) and put a crimp on wire eye that you can then screw to body with sheet metal screw. Before you do that take bulb out and look for spot in bulb socket that is ground point and see if corroded or broken off. You may need new bulb socket.

I had a similar problem when my original bulb burned out and I attempted to replace it. Found out the bulb I bought to replace it worked as a turn signal and brake light but not a tail light. Make sure you're using the. Perfect replacement bulb. Most bulbs now are doubled and tripled in functions so if yours is triple but you have a double bulb it won't light up your tail light. Start there

you have to drive it to charge the battery back up or put it on a charger

Check your hubs lift front end if wheel does not turn when locked in 4x4 then hubs are not engaging turn wheel by hand or a pipe wrench on drive shaft do not try power unless all wheels are lifted

That is pretty much normal, the heater blower fan acts like the radiator does and helps cool the water passing through it by extracting the heat from it. then once the car inside temp warms up it goes back to normal. Nothing to worry about.

ist check the sensor, if it is good then it is the oil pump do not let this go on very long, it could ruin your engine

A code P0153 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• The oxygen sensor is faulty
• The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed
• There is an exhaust leak

from you description it appears that you use 4wd while on hard surface. driving 4wd on hard surface does not allow the wheels to slip and even out the torque build up in the axles and drive lines. This in turn jams the teeth of the transmissions and will not allow the selector to shift. By driving backwards you are releasing this torque binding. To stop the problem only use 4wd on snow,ice gravel,sandy and grass surfaces where the wheels are allowed to slip. Never on hard surfaced roads. Beside causing excessive wear in the transmission and tyres it increases fuel consumption

There is another legitimate and easy way to disable seat belt chime. Radio is supposed to stay on til door opens. That is correct

these vehicles were prone to egr failures. Try to gently (not a 16 oz ballpeen hammer) tap on the egr valve. If idle smooths out then that is your problem.

passanger side the 1st plug front engine

is the engine running rough?

the recommended mileage is 100,000, how do I know? I am a Ford tech.

Hi there It sounds like you have a sensor problem on the a/c side of the fan assy SO UNPLUG IT AND TRY STARTING IT AGAIN IF IT WORKS THEN CHANGE OVER THE RELAYS FROM ENGINE FAN TO A/C FAN IF STAYS ON THEN REPLACE BOTH RELAYS.

P2198 Lack Of HO2S-21 Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Right Front O2 Sensor Issue Now you have to look at data & figure out why