2003 Mitsubishi Diamante - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

General guidelines:
locate the wires that attach to the alt. Not what goes where and then unplug, unbolt, etc as needed. Next there should be two bolts you have to losen. One is the pivot that the alt swivels on and the other secures the alt when it is pushed out to tighten the fan belt that powers it.

This is an idication the HEATER CORE is leaking

I got some silicone spray and sprayed it around all the rubber edges of the window frame that the windows slide in, i had to do this a couple of times and to be honest i made a mess but after putting the windows down and back up about 5 times they worked like new.

Several opinions about this:
Silicon Spray
Guys dont use Silicon Spray - I tried it (expensive stuff) and the windows were great for couple of weeks, then they got really really bad, much worse than how it was originally. The problem is that gunk and dirt get into the silicon and get stuck in it.
It took me months to get rid of the silicon **** using detergent.

WD40
WD40 is too thin and wont last long. It can also affect the window tinting.

Carbon/Graphite Powder
This is the best stuff to use. Dust does not get caught in it.
It works instantly and lasts for weeks - depending on how worn down the window rails and rubber are. If the windows start to go slow again, just put some more in. I keep a bottle in my glove compartment. If it rains heavily, it can wash away the carbon though. But at least it wont seize up like silicon grease. I think this is what the factory does to new cars anyway.

For the last choice, visit Auto-One stores:


Its cheap - around $5 I think. You can get it from any auto shop such as Repco, AutoOne, etc..

Hope helped.

Only Recharge the Battery with both the Cables: Positive and Negative removed from the Battery.
With the Charger OFF the Battery - Reset your Alarm turning it OFF.
Then Disconnect the Battery completely.
Never Recharge a Battery while it is still connected.

can be anything from map sensor to fuel delivery have the trouble code read most auto stores such as auto zone / advanced auto [check in ur area] do the scan for free the code will give u a start point to correct ur problem

Follow the lower radiator up to the engine. It's in the housing at the end of it.
If you're overheating/loosing coolant, you may have a leaking heater core.

probably t/c which would mean traction control.

You typically would like to do further diagnosis, however on these cars, the Denso sensors are very common to fail, and are the cause of the light 99% of the time, especially if it is the only code set.

Bank 2 sensor 1 is located on the top of the exhaust manifold on the radiator side of the engine. You will need an O2 sensor socket or a small 22mm wrench to remove it

THere is a good chance the sendig unit has befun to fail. I believe you can access the gas tank thru your trunk. Remove the trunk liner and look for a port with four screws holding it in place. Under this is your access to your tank. Before removal of it be certain (for safety sake) to remove your battery ground.
I hope this may have assisted,
Tom

That's because it is!
Once you have the heater box assembly out of the vehicle, you will be able to split the two halves apart by removing the screws, to gain access to where the heater core is located. If you have A/C, it will be a major PITA. Good Luck!

Either your O2 Sensor has failed, your catalytic converter has failed, or one of your spark plugs is fouled up

there is a problem with the sending unit, you will need to replace it.

If you really, really want to test it, take an auxillary fuel can, 5 gallons.

Run car to empty, and keep driving, ...select non busy roads, be aware that cornering and going up hill can cause you to run out of fuel....

My bet is that if you run on fairly level ground that your little light comes on before you run out....

You can also allow some fuel to be pumped out of your fuel system, to run fuel lower, in the driveway, but it lacks the intrigue of the prior method.

Doc

Many times there is several geared motors in the dash the move the air doors around for the ductwork of the heating air conditioner system. Sometimes even with it doing this you can't detect something wrong with the way it works. To find the culprit with the kick covers removed laying in the floor looking up into the heater area reach carefully up into the area that the noise comes from as you turn on the key. touching the clicking part will let you know there the part is conpared to the others and you might get to look at it with the glove box removed. Once you have the best inspefction done look at the dealers parts man pichture of this part in the HVAC system. Have your VIN with you as they make your car different ways on different days. Air door actuater is what I think it is and some of them are pricey. The reason for the failure needs to be found too as the new one may fail quickly if the cause isn't corrected. A scanner connected to the car may find an HVAC or other fault code that may lead you right to the problem. Not always, as somethings effect others and the root cause is somthing slse.

This is because of the ignition system, Check the ignition system with the appropriate technician to get it done.
In the mean time check the alternator and the rectifier sections too.

Take a stiff piece of plastic so you wont damage the finish on the faux wood grain finish or if you are careful a flat head screw driver and insert in the crack between the radio panel and the ash tray. Gently twist and seperate the panels they will just pop off when the clip releases and there are 2 screws behind there. Now do the same at the top of the panel and gently pry upward from the bottom of the vents and there are 2 more screws there.

Very possible it was the timing belt. If the main serpentine belt seems loose, it also coould be your pulley. If you can check it now, the tensioner pulley is the one you see that is very silver looking on the side that actually supports the OUTSIDE of the belt. If you can go take a look at it now, grab ahold of it and try to move it. The only motion it should make is a spinning motion....this will be step one on figuring out the problem....will take one minute to verify.....

check the fuze

The fuel sending unit has gone out. This sending unit operates the fuel gauge. It is located in the gas tank. You will have to remove the tank to fix this. You can try banging on the tank, sometimes the float arm on it gets rusty and will get stuck in one position and the banging will free it up. From your description though, it sounds like the sending unit has shorted out and needs to be replaced.
Please remember to rate this fix.

Magna (not magan) THis is the performance Australian version. Pretty much the same a the american one (I think it has like 5 to 10 more hp)