1993 Daihatsu Rocky - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

leak around What shaft, drive shaft, CV shaft, etc???
If drive shaft, on rear whell drive vehicle, the transmission needs a new rear main seal!
Good luck

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Which indicator?

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Regards, Lee Davidian

Your FixYa Expert

Something in the system is worn, loose or or out of alignment, you will have to remove the door trim and watch the window while it is operating and correct any fault you see or replace worn parts/

EFI means Electronic Fuel Injection.

I would try the forum on the Daihatsu drivers club pages on the following page: daihatsu-drivers.co.uk

Check this information from the same site:

HEAD BOLT TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
OK, since I've got the book with me, I'll give you the head torquing sequence.
The best thing to do is to make a sketch of the head bolts as you look at the engine from the front of the vehicle.

There are 8 bolts outside the rocker box on the injector side of the head in a line from front to back. Starting at the front, label these bolts 14, 10, 6, 2, 3, 7, 11, and 15.

There are 5 bolts in line from front to back, directly under the rocker shaft. Starting at the front, label these bolts 17, 9, 1, 8, and 16.

There are 4 remaining bolts in the rocker box in line from front to back, above the exhaust and inlet ports. Starting from the front, label these bolts 13, 5, 4, and 12.

You have now drawn yourself a picture showing the tightening sequence for the head bolts.
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The torque setting is 117.7 +/- 9.8 Nm (Newton metres)
NOTE THAT BOLTS AND BOLT HEADS SHOULD BE OILED

To get foot pounds, multiply Nm by 0.738
I actually torqued my head to 70 Nm, then 95 Nm and finally 120 Nm.

Hope helps.

Hi,

93 octane is already suitable for that car.

There must be something else?

Usually "pinking" came from...... a less power of combustion, during combustion there is a leak that causes less power, setting of timing, gap seting of spark plug, and engine can't reach the minimum temperature.

Better have a tune up first, to check on those things that I suggested.

Even if you use a fuel additive booster, can not fix those things that i said.


Hope that helps you out!

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Kindly never start your car this way. A starter need about 300 Amperes. It is quite danger for your safety.

I find alot of technical manuals at a web site called "PDF foo.com" they have almost everything there and it's free to view as well as download or print.

There are 2 sensors. One is used for the temperature guage Single wire connection - Yellow/white(1 on diagram). The one I suspect you are looking for is used by the ECU and is at the back of the engine, has a green connecting head with 2 wires leading to it, yellow and white/black(2 on diagram). Then there is a third used by the A/C(iii on diagram)

YOU NEED A CHILTON OR HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL TO LOOK AT PHOTOS FOR TIMING MARKS LOCATION ON CAMSHAFT SPROCKETS AND CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET.

last daihatsu i worked on had 155/13 tyres but it was a charade

replace the temperature switch ,on some vehicles it is screwed in head , some on themostat housing , some on block and others on the inlet manifold or radiator , you can also buy do it yourself kits from most auto shops , and just put a new gauge and temperature switch into the water sourse like radiator, thermostat housing or manifold , or into its original position .
wiring is only needed for guage lights and sensor .
pretty easy for adverage mechanic.

Well if 7-3=124 (7-3=4 and 4x3=12 getting 124) and 6+3=279 (6+3=9 and 9x3=27 getting 279) then 15-3= (15-3=12 and 12x3=36 should be 3612)

Answer: 15 - 3 = 3612!!!.

Hi, for all my years in dealing with car repair, i have never seen a Daihatsu Feroza with a fuel pump strainer. It does not have..

Hi. You need to unhook your battery so no one gets cooked while removing parts or touching wires. Once the battery is disconnected, then remove the fasteners on the distributor cap. They are typically two small L-shaped rods that have a screwdriver head on the top with a spring underneath to keep them tightly secure. You need to suppress the rods from the top with a screwdriver and then turn them to free the cap from its grip. Once the cap is off, then there should be a couple of guide screws that need to be detached to remove the rotor and replace it with another.

All the best!

I assume you mean your brake disc rotor....if it is front, you may have to tap it with a hammer around the circumference until it is loose, it is common for the disc to rust itself to the hub........if it is the rear, then this is a different story...i also assume that you have removed the brake caliper and associated components

No, that 5 mm play is definitely not normal and it is almost surely the cause of the abnormal wear pattern - the wear is more visible when the distance from the rotor and the plot is highest because there the spark is more violent because it has to jump a greater distance.
Replace both and check the play again - if the play remains the same then you will have to check the distributor itself.

purchase a repair manual for details

EBS red warning beeping on screen, lazy breaks, any suggestions please?

Check your front suspension(ball joints, tie rod ends, also check the boots for wear and make sure they are full of grease) for tightness. If the vehicle pulls either way or grinds when you turn or brake, it may also be your wheel bearings.