Viking Grilling - Page 2 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Check the top of the burner for cracks. If there is a crack, then the burner will have to be replaced.

Glad you cleaned the orifices. Did yo also clean the burners and their venturi valves when you had the burners out? If not, I suspect you may have a spider colony that has built nests in each venturi valve. If so, it stops the gas flow to each burner dead in it's tracks.

Hope this helped you and thanks for choosing FixYa.

Lynn, the problem lies with the gas regulator and the way you turn the tank ON. But it's readily solvable.

1. Turn the tank valve OFF & disconnect the hose from the tank.

2. Wait 5 minutes and reconnect the hose to the tank.

3. Open the tank valve VERY, VERY SLOWLY (Slow motion, slow).

4. Once the valve is fully open, light the burner farthest from the tank first and set it on HIGH.
Does the flame height look correct? If so, light the remaining burners the exact same way.
Do all the flame heights look correct? If so, your solved the problem. Always remember to
open the tank valve Very, Very Slowly.

If that didn't solve the problem, you will need to replace the grill's Hose/Regulator Assembly. They run about $30.00 at any hardware store or home center that sells grills and accessories. Simply take you old one with you for comparison purposes.

Hope this helped you troubleshoot & solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.

Here's the problem and the solution. The new regulator you just installed, locked up when you turned ON new tank. This oocurs quite frequently with the fairly new OPD equipped grill tanks.

Solution:

1. Turn the gas tank's valve OFF and disconnect the hose from the tank.

2. Wait 5 minutes and reconnect the hose to the tank.

3. Open the tank valve VERY, VERY, SLOWLY (slow motion, slow),

4. Once the valve is fully open, light the burner farthest from the tank first and turn it to HIGH.
Did the burner light and does the flame height look correct? If so, light the remaining burners
the same way. Now, do all the flame heights look correct? If so, you solved the problem (with
a little help). Remember to ALWAYS open the tank valve very, very, slowly.

Happy Grilling!!

What you have described sounds like a clogged burner as well as the venturi valve on the burner. Your will need to remove the burner to clean it and the venturi valve on the open end of the burner, that goes over the burner orifice. Spiders like to build nest in them and clog them up. The venturi valve will look like two slots, cut in to each side of the burner, at the open end. It's function is to mix air with the gas, for proper combustion.

Hope this helped you to troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know and Happy Grilling!!

Before you start replacing parts, let's try trouble shooting the problem, by asking a couple of questions.

Have you checked the gas line shutoff valve, on the gas line from the house to the grill, to make sure it's fully open?

When was the last time you thoroughly cleaned the grill (i.e. Removed and cleaned the burners, the venturi valves & the burner orifices) ?

If you answered NO, to both or either one of the above questions, that's where you need to start.
If you no longer have the Owners Manual for your grill, please advise me, who the manufacturer is and the correct model number . I may be able to provide you with one. Even if you end up needing parts, you will need the Owners Manual to get the correct part numbers.

Hope this helped in solving your grill problem. Please let me know.

There have been issues lately with the way regulators are not drawing gas out of the cylinders properly, and how some of the newer grills are not heating properly.

The issue with them not heating properly goes back (usually, from just what I have observed) to the position of the gas knobs at the time the cylinder valve is opened. On some grills, if the gas knobs are open when the cylinder valve is opened, the burners will not get the maximum amount of gas to all burners, but the performance of one burner is enhanced if the others are turned off, and this sounds like what's got you.

Turn the gas cylinder valve to the off position, and bleed the gas pressure down at the burners. Close the burner valves. Slowly crack open the tank valve, and work it slowly to full open. With the grill lid open, select and light one burner. If it operates properly, light the other burners. If the first burner does not operate properly, repeat the procedure. If you cannot operate your grill like it is supposed to, the issue may fall to the regulator. If the regulator is an older style, it may not actually be fully compatible with some newer cylinders. This seems to be a newer phenomenon, and seems to be found with the type of cylinders that are swapped for a refill. If this is your case, you will need to upgrade to the newer regulator.

Best regards, --W/D--

Hi- did you change the gas valve to LP?

Hello. You will actually have to disassemble that part of the unit to remove it for cleaning, Be sure to take cell phone pix, label the screws, etc. so you do not have trouble with reassembly. The other method of cleaning it that you may wish to consider is to rent a steam generator or a hot water power washer. J.

Replace the Regulator to get gas running to the burners again

I would suggest first lifting them out, give them good brush with wirebrush, check if holes are not clogged, check for any not surface damage, they ususally rust bit over on the surface and that is all.

If grill flame is working correctly, and grating have still "decent" thickness and is not falling to pieces, I would still use them normally.

Rust on the grate is usually caused by not using it and exposure to rain/water, as this grating is usually rather solid, surface rust will not affect it. If you have model with stainless graing - there should be no rust on stainless...

That is one of the reasons why you should not wash your grill after use! Fat from cooked food is protecting it from environment.

Hope this will help your worries at bay :-) Enjoy your grill!

Regulator is bad replace it

Manufacture's put this information in a variety of places, check the back of the cart/grill, check inside the door, check the underside of the grease pan, and then, pull out the grease pan and get down on your knees and check up above where the grease pan slides in. Hopefully, it will be in one of these places.

Check to ensure the gas supply is on. Next, check to ensure there are no gas valves in line with the unit that have been turned off.

After this has been completed, turn off the gas supply and loosen the gas line coming into the grill, turn the gas back on, and check to see if you have gas coming out the spot you have loosened up. There is a chance the regulator has gone bad and has closed off allowing no gas to flow.

If you still have no gas, you will need a new regulator. In most cases, the regulator is part of the supply gas hose and will require replacement of the entire assembly vs. just a replacement regulator.

http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/gasgrillparts/helpcenter/valves.html Read this should help.

First things first. Make sure you didn't simply just the tank valve on too fast, causing the excess flow valve to cut-off gas to a trickle. Close tank valve, disconnect and reconnect and then open tank valve very slowly.

If that doesn't solve the issue, seeing that you already replaced the regulator, then it's possible it wasn't converted properly. If he didn't change the orifices, leaving in the nat gas ones, then your flames would be large lazy yellow flames. If that's not the case, then it's possible he might have put in the incorrect size LP orifices based on a wrong figuring of BTU rating per burner. See if you can you find the BTU rating on the grill? How many burners are there? Does it state the BTU rating of each burner. If they are different sizes we will need to know BTU specifics for each burner, but if all are the same size, we can divide the total BTU by the # of burners for BTU rating per burner. Orifices have a # stamped on them, so see if you can read the #'s on the existing orifices. If he used the nat gas orifices and drilled them larger and installed a spud, which he redrilled for LP orifice size, then that stamped # won't matter. Something like this is a lot easier to trouble shoot in person! Using a small mirror, see what you can figure out on those orifices and we'll try to determine if they are correctly sized. Hope this helps.
Douglas

You are having a common problem with gas grills. Click on my username and scroll down my profile to find my tips and tricks for trouble shooting common gas grill lighting issues. Hope one of them helps.

Do you have the manual? It should tell you that info in there somewhere.

I'm having the exact same problem this morning. It worked a few days ago when I "seasoned" it. I read something about the controller being cold sensitive so I brought it inside to see if that works.