Viking Grilling - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


If you do not hear a clicking sound then the ignition module may be bad.

Viking... | Answered on Aug 02, 2017


That is correct. Viking no longer supports the Cast Iron Burners. There is an aftermarket Burner VIKU1 that comes with mounting brackets to convert older Viking Grills that used a Cast Iron Burner to be able to switch to the stainless steel burner. The large bracket attaches to the center tube and has two screw holes and screws for mounting to the rear of the housing. The two smaller brackets mount to the two holes at the rear wall of the housing and create a ledge for the end of the two tubes to rest on.

Viking Grilling | Answered on Aug 02, 2017


if you need parts for a viking then you would go to this site click here http://www.allvikingparts.com/
if you have any further questions message me back and please remember to rank how helpful this was it allows me to help others in similar situations Thanks Rick

Viking... | Answered on Jun 19, 2015


If the ignitors make a sharp snap or click when you press them, then you don't need batteries. Try to clean the tips of the ignitors (carefully). On the other hand, if the ignitor is an electrical pushbutton (often rubberized) that doesn't make the clacking sound, it's electric and needs batteries. Try to (gently) unscrew the pushbutton assembly . Grillmakers often hide the battery inside.

Viking Grilling | Answered on May 30, 2015


If you are using a 20# propane cylinder, most likely you have just turned the tank valve on too fast. There is an excess flow built into the hose fitting, so when you first turn it on to an empty line, the sudden surge of gas causes the valve to 'check' or close. Turn off the tank valve, disconnect the hose fitting from the tank valve and then re-hook it up again. Now very slowly open the tank valve until it's completely open and then try lighting it again. If this does not fix it, then make sure the hose fitting that attaches to the tank valve is tightened all the way, so that it pushes open the pressure seat inside the tank valve. If the hose is still loose or can still swivel, despite the adapter being tight, then your plastic adapter may be broken and is not tightening all the way onto the tank valve or your inner tank valve black rubber gasket is missing.

Viking Grilling | Answered on May 19, 2015


If this burner has tube type, You can loosen a screw in the front of burner and slide open air rater vent just a little just make sure not to open to far. blue-ish/orange flame is what your looking for

Viking 500... | Answered on Apr 18, 2015


That is not really enough to tell us what you need.
We repair a lot of Viking model barbecue grills and stock all the various ignition parts. As Viking changed fabrication strategy the appliances have gotten much better through the years. An electrode purchased today for a Viking will not look the same as the original electrode but the new, longer, double-pronged electrodes work a lot better, are built a lot heavier, last a lot longer and cost less than the originals.
The only difference between the module and electrode and button architecture in a Viking when compared to any other high-end grill is the inner firewall. Between the control panel and the inside firewall inside the grill where the burners connect to the valves, there is a second firewall designed to hold-off heat damage created by certain problems (usually resulting from poor assembly after cleaning). The new Viking electrodes are long and thick but the back-end is also long which makes sure the electrode wires are far away from the heat of the firebox.
Other than that the 9volt module, button and electrodes are no different from any other high-end grill.
We do have exploded schematics of where all the grill parts belong in a Viking so contact us if you want copies of this information.

Viking... | Answered on Feb 10, 2014


From what you are describing, it sounds like your rotisserie burner may have a bad thermocouple. You can order the parts from Viking, the igniter for the left main burner will require you to remove the front panel to replace, but is fairly straight forward after that. To replace the thermocouple, you will have to fish it down from the burner and under the grill to behind the front panel, not hard, just time consuming.

Viking... | Answered on Nov 12, 2012


Try Calgary BBQ center thay are on line

Viking... | Answered on Apr 01, 2012


sometimes spider webs clogs the orifaces. also check your regulator .if its not making any sound give it a light tap with wooden hammer handle sometimes the diaphram sticks

Viking... | Answered on Feb 24, 2012


Hi kristi0008,

Try this ma'am and see if it has the info you need.
http://www.vikingrange.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m1820052_F20455.pdf

Viking... | Answered on Feb 09, 2012


Hello Roy, the procedure for removing the hood for cleaning is quite complicated when describing. Due to this i have put in a link to the use and care guide as well as the installation instructions. To use the installation instructions try reverse engineering from the last step to the first while the use and care guide has descriptions to help you clean the unit. Hope this support has been helpful?
Thank you for visiting FixYa.

Viking... | Answered on Sep 12, 2011


Replace the regulator it is bad!

Viking Grilling | Answered on Sep 03, 2011


If the grill has a NG regulator, try replacing it.

Viking... | Answered on Aug 19, 2011

Not finding what you are looking for?
Viking Logo

48 questions posted

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Viking Grilling Experts

paulcarew

Level 3 Expert

2464 Answers

Mike Hollander
Mike Hollander

Level 1 Expert

9 Answers

Are you a Viking Grilling Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...