M-Audio Audio Players & Recorders - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Yes, my M-Audio BX-5's power on and look fine but there is no sound. The system output goes to other monitors just fine, so I've narrowed it down to the BX-5's. The answer is: Sometimes you get what you pay for. This isn't one of those times. Get better speakers next time. I'm now realizing how many of my older M-Audio devices am I still able to use. 0

Background 50 or 60 Hz buzz can be radiated from nearby wiring or conducted. Grounding is important but that can also be a cause. I suggest you search accidental hum loops. Poor or faulty power supply regulation or smoothing can inject a mains hum into audio. This would need checking with an oscilloscope which could also be used perhaps to help search for the source. Radiated hum can be picked up and injected into high gain amplifier inputs and long leads, poor screening and impedance mismatch can make things much worse. I haven't helped much but I hope I have given you food for thought and further research.

Little goes wrong with a speaker unless it has either been overloaded or subject to damp, extreme dust or has sustained physical damage from some sort of accident. A rough test is to move the speaker cone gently through most of it's travel using an even pressure simultaneously on various places around the cone, I use my fingers. It should move smoothly without any resistance and most importantly it should be completely silent through the largest or smallest movements. If it sounds scratchy, the speech coil is either off-centre or it has suffered damp or dust and dirt has ingressed into the air gap or the chassis has become distorted. If it is silent and electrically sound it should produce normal volume. There was a time when loudspeaker repair, overhaul or adjustment was routine but these days it isn't economic except for the highest quality and replacement is best. After gaining access to the interior wiring of the speaker cabinet I suggest further testing it by wiring it direct and leaving out the crossover if it has one.

I am currently searching for support or repair/part replacement options for this microphone for which the problem in my case is very obvious. The capsule is cradled in a rubber mount which affixes to the top of the mic body by three plastic posts. One side of the capsule has a soldered wire, and the other is comprised of a contact pad that mates against a spring pin in the center of the top end of the body. Two of the three posts broke and there is not enough tension against the spring pin (also called a "pogo-pin") to maintain a solid connection. The connection is good enough most of the time for the sound to get through, however popping noise which is fairly random occurs as well. This situation can be easily observed by unscrewing and removing the windscreen and visually inspecting the mounting system. My thoughts if unable to get a cost effective repair made or replace the parts is to drill into the plastic mount and glue stainless steel pins of the same diameter (possibly from scrapped HDD mechanism or similar) in the place of the previously existing plastic pins.

connects to audio output in back of computer with 1/8" stereo jacks. also can connect with standard RCA cables but you would need to find an adapter for the back panel of the computer.

it would help if you posted more information about your system.

You may not find an exact match, but you should be able to find a suitable replacement that is the correct size and impedance from SimplySpeakers.com : Replacement Speakers I would recommend replacing both L & R tweeters, especially if its not an exact match replacement.

Update your computer or go to the website of your product and go to Drivers and/or Support and download the driver for your specific device...Hope this helps

I have had a similar issue and discovered one of my audio cables wasn't properly shielded. Try a new set of cables including the USB cable. If there's bad shielding or ground on any of your cables it can pick up outside interference. Also, try each input cable one at a time to try to narrow down which cable or input it could be. If you get the interference with a new USB cable and nothing plugged into the unit there could be a bad ground in one of the XLR or 1/4" input.

Good advice at this site:http://www.dancetech.com/index.cfm?loading=section_links&class=tech Scroll down to the Studio Tech articles.

If you are sure of what you are doing then replace the capacitor and any other capacitors with a blown/distorted top.These capacitors are polarised capacitors and must be inserted/soldered correctly in place. The stripe on the capacitor is the negative lead.

They don't give it from the company(highly irritating) , but a sales point has one, only don't give it also, since it depedence by where you live, how it's arrangement by law and without the right education it's last years very hard to buy one. But you can try it......

How sure are you that't you tweeter and not a contact cable or, sunce they use cheap xhinese capacitors on the m-audio, just a capacitor has dead. Don't buy a tweeter, since they very often die and check the inputs , especially TRS amd rca and unscrew the the backplate and you'll notice that the cables and connectors used are cheapio. So it worth to check the pcb,s if you see broken caps. Which wouldn't surprise me , since their cheap once. And before buy another tweeter, first try it out on another small amplifier, to see if it works. Buying a new ine is the last fase, they ask high prices for a 10 dollar unit. Where did you buy it and how old is the unit? Greetings richard

Since it sometimes gices a sound, and i know the problem when it's not put it totally and does it. I want to know what it does with rca cables, trs cables and xlr cables and what it does and what ut doesn't. The connection inside in the trs and on one pcb , connected to your main pcb with three cables and it could be that one is not connected right. First of all. it's in the Netherland minimal twp years quarantee, since you may expect the speakers go allong min 2 years. Check you consumerrights, before start screwing. And just measure your cables with a simple ohm meter or buy for 25 euro a cable meter....very easy and the costs ain't a thing. gr. richard.... With all the cheap speakers and cheap connectors it might just as well beinig the connector inside, i hate them and replace them.

As you can see, there are 8 screws holding the woofer in. Remove them, lift the speaker up, but before you disconnect it....Mark + and - onto the wires...red + and black -. .http://i46.tinypic.com/14l3j0z.jpg

Remove the backplate and the wires are often hold togeter with a tiedrap, so you need a long , how do you call it in english:) , sciccoskind tool or you can try to unplug, the plugs between the powerunit/ amplifier and you speakers . I'm busy rebuildimg m3-8 from m-audio, cause of some where cheap amp/powerunit and did it by hand and i have large hand, but put some tape around the backplatesurrounding for scratches. And if you have them loose you can remove them.... but why? Do you think you just can replace them for other once, think again

No, the power cord is not the issue. Tell us more about the symptoms

Sounds like the frame of the microphone itself has become ungrounded. You could try VERY
carefully disassemble the mic and check for a bad ground or a bad wire connecting to the mic
body.

The mics I have seen don't have a filter... but a lot of mixers do have a 100Hz mic input filter. Check the other equipment that you are using also.

Tweeter just may need to be replaced. Is all the sound coming only from the woofer?

http://reconingspeakers.com/product/m-audio-bx5a-woofer/