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I have an Electrolux ecm 1957 freezer. It will regularly beep and switch the alarm and fast freeze lights on . Sometimes it alternates between the compressor running for a couple of seconds and the buzzer going for a couple of seconds. It is still freezing ok but sometimes the temperature display can be as low minus 36 degrees. It normally runs at minus 18. If i switch off on the wall socket and then press both the buttons on the handle while I switch it back on the beeping usually stops for a while.

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  • Ian Thompson Mar 13, 2011

    I have bypassed the pcb and the compressor runs ok. I have reassembled the freezer and switch on, the compressor runs ok but \I have all three lights on and the buzzer and fast freeze lights on constantly. The buzzer doesnt turn off when I prss the button. normally the tempereture is at 18 degrees but the buzzer wil start without warning, sometimes constant and sometimes it is on and off in short bursts. I think the pcb is at fault personally but needed to be more confident before replacing it. is there an onms reading that I could check through the temperature sensor. I have checked this before and I was getting a reading. Could the temp sensor have an intermittant fault? Do you know of a pcb supplier?

    Regards,

    Ian.

  • Ian Thompson Mar 13, 2011

    I have done as you suggested and the compressor runs ok. I have reassembled the freezer and switched on and the compressor is running ok but with all three lights on and the buzzer on constantly. The buzzer wont turn off when you press the button.Sometimes the buzzer comes on constantly without the compressor and sometimes is buzzes on and off at about 2 second intervals without the compressor running. Usually if I turn it off at the wall socket and then press both buttons on the freezer whilst turning the wall socket on the lights go out and the buzzer stops. The internal temperature seems to be ok and the food is keeping frozen ok. When the buzzer and light are on the temperature display will either flash or doesnt read. I think it is a pcb fault but feel that I need to prove it. Do you know where I can obtain a pcb if needed?

    Regards.

  • Ian Thompson Mar 14, 2011

    I had already worked out that it was probably a pcb fault after checking wiring to the temp sensor and compressor etc. I was hoping someone might have had this fault with this model of freezer and sugest something else. It looks like the parts are obsolete so a new freezer is probably my only option. Regards.

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The digital temperature display integrated in the handle of the lid. In normal operation, it shows the temperature of the frozen products in centigrade (°C). There are however the following exceptions: - After switching on the freezer "- -" is shown briefly. - If the temperature inside the freezer is higher than 0 °C, "+" appears. - If the storage temperature cannot be measured due to a malfunction, "+" or "-36", appear and at the same time the warning buzzer and the red warning light indicate an alarm condition.--------- The temperature display indicates the temperature of the frozen food and therefore changes relatively slowly, if you put fresh goods in for example. If you leave the lid open for a long time, the temperature warning may respond, the temperature display may however remain unchanged. In this case there is no malfunction. Press the WARNING OFF button, to switch the warning buzzer off. The red warning light goes out automatically after a short time.--------- TEMPERATURE WARNING:------ If the temperature in the freezer is too high, the warning buzzer sounds and the red warning light flashes. The warning buzzer and red warning light are triggered: - if the storage temperature required has not yet been reached when starting the freezer; if the storage temperature is no longer maintained (malfunction); ----- after inserting fresh foodstuffs in a greater quantity than permitted by the freezing capacity.------- - if the lid is left open too long. You can switch off the warning buzzer with the WARNING OFF button. The red warning light continues to flash until it is sufficiently cold again inside the freezer. The warning buzzer and red warning light are not triggered: - if the power supply is interrupted; - if the electronic thermostat is faulty. TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT:---A coin has to be used to turn the temperature control knob. This makes it more difficult to inadvertently adjust the temperature (child protection). Position "1" means: warmest internal temperature. Position "4" means: coldest internal temperature . Recommended position: "2 " or "3". Turn the temperature control knob to position "2" or "3" using a coin. The internal temperature will be affected by the following: - ambient temperature - quantity of food stored; - frequent or prolonged opening of the lid.
Therefore regularly monitor that the optimal storage temperature of -18 °C or colder is maintained, either using the thermometer or the digital temperature display depending on model . If necessary, adjust the temperature setting, until the thermometer or the digital temperature display shows -18 °C or colder. From a food safety point of view, -18 °C is considered a sufficiently cold storage temperature. ---------------------------- If the temperature gets too high then Check the thermostat is turned to the correct setting relevant to ambient conditions.But if its not getting set then its faulty thermostat.---------- ----------- Also as you mentioned the compressor runs for few seconds and buzzer going on for couple of seconds.So it can be compressor or circuit board related issue.If temperature controlling thermostat checks out ok then the compressor and circuit board are to be checked. --------- To determine if the fault is in the compressor or the main control board it will be necessary for you to gain access to the control board.

Unplug the appliance and take the control panel apart.

Once you gain access to the board, take off the 5 way connector that has 3 wires in it.

Bridge the brown and black wires together and make sure the connector is insulated from everything else (it will still be unplugged from the board).

Once it's all insulated plug the appliance in.

Does the compressor now run or does it do the same as before.

If it runs, you need to replace the control board.

If it's still the same, reassemble the appliance and try fitting a new starting device to the compressor. There is a starting device beside the compressor, which lets the compressor to start and run. If this starting device gets weak then compressor will not start properly. In that case the starting device has to be replaced. To order this starting device click the link below: ---

http://www.espares.co.uk/part/fridges-and-freezers/electrolux/p/1084/15/0/0/577530/overload-cut-out-starting.html

But if after replacing this starting device, the problem is still the same then you'll need to get a refrigeration engineer to replace the compressor and regas the appliance.
This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Posted on Mar 13, 2011

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Mine always behaves like this after defrosting, keeps beeping and compressor only runs for a few seconds. Follow the instructions, taking great care, bridge the brown and black wires, switch on and the compressor can be heard running. I left mine for about 20 minutes, removed the bridge, plugged the control board back in, and everything started up normally. Temperature was -17 and should return to around -15 which we normally use.
This is about the 3rd or 4th time I have done this.

Posted on May 27, 2016

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I had the same problem and found the information given by Raj Somaiya to be very helpful in checking out the problem. However, I was confused by the advice of connecting the brown and black wires together, as from what I could see on my freezer, there were two brown wires, one from the live mains supply and one from one side of the thermal sensor, whereas the black wire connected to earth. I presume that the idea was to connect the one from the sensor to earth but I didn't want to try that.
I found that the freezer would often work correctly when I had the pcb outside of the plastic housing but when I slid it back in it failed either with all three lights on and the alarm sounding continuously or with the compressor failing to start and with vague figures on the display. Eventually I found that the connector was not making good contact with the pcb, so I bent the springy contacts in the connector with a small screwdriver to make them press harder on the pcb (making sure the power was disconnected first). This solved the problem and, after a reset by pressing both buttons I got a display of + saying the temperature was out of range and the alarm sounded periodically, as would be expected. The compressor was running and, after a while, the display started showing a gradually descending temperature reading and everything was OK.
George

Posted on Sep 30, 2013

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The beep is to let you know that a door is not closed completely or the temperature in the refrigerator is too warm. Open the doors one at a time and look at the gasket on the door that is still closed. There should be a seal all the way around each door. The gasket should be touching the cabinet all the way around the door.
Check the temperatures and see if they are correct. If the refrigerator has only been running a few hours, it may beep until it gets cold enough that's why you hear beep sound for a while when you switch it back.

Hope this helps.

Shane

Posted on Mar 13, 2011

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