Keep blowing amps and high voltage output voltage please help

Amperage=voltage/resistance 50 watts

But no amp is going to put out that much voltage in output stages. You need a fuse with high amperage for speker protection.

The TV has two power supplies, low and high voltage. Most likely the high voltage transistor (called a Horizontal Output Transistor or HOT) is shorted due to a malfunctioning high voltage transformer (the biggest piece on the board with the large red wire coming from it. If the low voltage is bad most likely the diode pack (full wave rectifier) or the voltage regulator chip.
Remember fuses are to keep the unit from catching fire by opening up when a short circuit draws too much current. If you cannot replace the cause of the current draw, it's time to buy a new TV.

These sets had alot of problems with bad FBT flyback tranfomers,You might need to change FBT.
Heres another thing they also had Bad Picture Tubes that will blow hori output and you will not know its the Tube untill you replace the FBT.Use a high voltage probe to monitor Voltage coming from the anode button, if you dont have a HVP then disconnect the CRT board and monitor set.

Well, this may take some work, but do you have a schematic for the unnamed mystery amplifier?
If so, trace the voltage back to the op-amp chip that's sitting with V+ on it's output with no input, and you`ve found the problem!
Otherwise, if you have an oscilloscope, with no speakers attached, trace the incoming signal until it turns to a DC voltage or til the signal starts riding on a high or low voltage.

Oh, another thing to check, there's usually a couple high wattage low impedance resistors between the power transistors (unless it's a hybrid chip). If one of those resistors opens up, you can have this issue.

well if the amp works with the car off and when you start it the fuse blows then you may have alternator issues use a volt meter to check battery voltage is not above 14.5 volts
if the fuse blows when the amp turns on then most likely you have a shorted output section in the amp.

Your voltage regulator is not working properly. You may have to convert to a more modern style regulator. Get a voltmeter and measure voltage at the battery with bike off, should be 12 to 12 1/2 volts. Then measure voltage with bike at idle and then at high RPM, should never go over 14 and 1/2 volts. Also bad connections, dirty, rusty, loose etc will cause the gen to work harder and put out high amps. Make sure you have good clean connectors at the battery posts also. GOOD LUCK.




 

If the amp blows fuses only AFTER you send remote turn-on voltage to the amp, the amp probably has blown output transistors. To eliminate other possible causes, read through the following page.

Amp Troubleshooting

Let me know if you have any other questions.

If the amp blows a fuse with no remote voltage applied, the amp has a short in the primary side of the power supply. If the fuse only blows after remote voltage is applied, the amp probably has shorted output transistors.

Disconnect all speaker wires and RCA cables from the amp. Replace the fuse with a 30 amp fuse and power up the amp. If the fuse blows, the amplifier probably has shorted/leaking output transistors.

Measure the DC voltage across the B+ and ground terminals as well as across remote and ground. If you have less than 11 volts when the amp tries to power up, the amp could be shutting down due to low voltage.

If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down or blows the fuse when you apply remote voltage (turn the head unit on), the amp likely has blown output transistors.