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Posted on Nov 25, 2010
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Maytag gas dryer MDG9606 won't heat. I have jumpered across the high-limit thermister and across the cycling thermistor (red to purple), and made sure the fuse is short. Did I check thes correcly? Is the next step repalcing the gas valve?

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Tim Whalen

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  • Master 3,076 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 25, 2010
Tim Whalen
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0helpful
2answers

My maytag dryer has no heat

Gas or Electric??
Model number? (produced by Maytag, Amana, Norge, Admiral, Samsung or Whirlpool (all say Maytag on the back panel).
1. Does it have power from the house (yes, this happens)?
2. Is the exhaust vent blocked/restricted? (pull dryer away from the wall and unhook the venting.)
3. If above is okay, then you check each component in the heating circuit: heater, high limit safety, high limit cutout, cycling stat, motor switch, timer switch, door switch, temperature selector switch and (maybe) the fuse link (if it has one, on Whirlpool sourced units.)
Details matter.
tip

Whirlpool Dryer Various Test Procedures - Part 2

TEST #4 Heater
This test is performed when either of the following situations occur: Dryer does not heat Heat will not shut off
This test checks the components making up the heating circuit. The following items are part of this system:
Harness/connection, Heater relay, Thermal cut-off, Thermal fuse, High limit thermostat, Gas burner assembly,
Centrifugal switch, Exhaust thermistor, Machine control electronics, Gas supply. Dryer does not heat:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the back panel to access the thermal components.
3. Perform TEST #4b. If the thermal fuse is OK, go to step 4.
4. Perform TEST #4c. If the thermal cut-off is OK, go to step 5.
5. Locate the high limit thermostat. Measure the continuity through it by connecting the meter probes on the
red wire and blue wire terminals. If there is an open circuit, replace the high limit thermostat and thermal cutoff.
Otherwise, go to step 6.
6. Perform TEST #4d. If this is OK, replace the machine control electronics.
Heat will not shut off:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the machine control electronics, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (red-white wire) at the connector. If 5–15 k ohms are measured, replace the machine control electronics. If the resistance is greater than 20 k ohms, replace the exhaust thermistor.
TEST #4a Exhaust Thermistor
The machine control electronics monitors the exhaust temperature using the exhaust thermistor, and cycles the heater relay on and off to maintain the desired temperature. Begin with an empty dryer and a clean lint screen.
1. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
2. Start the Timed Dry cycle.
3. If after 60 seconds, F-22 or F-23 flashes in the display and the dryer shuts off, the thermistor or wire harness is either open or shorted. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. Check wire connections at the machine control electronics and thermistor. If wire connections are OK, check exhaust thermistor resistance per step 5.
4. If F-22 or F-23 does not flash in the display, the connections to the thermistor are good. Therefore, check the exhaust temperature value at any or all of the temperature levels in question, using the Timed Dry cycle, and the following process: Hold a glass bulb thermometer capable of reading from 90° to 180°F (32° to 82°C)
in the center of the exhaust outlet. The correct exhaust temperatures are as follows:
TEMP
SETTING HEAT TURNS
OFF* HEAT TURNS
ON High 155° ± 5°F
(68°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Medium 140° ± 5°F
(60°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Low 125° ± 5°F
(52°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Extra Low 105° ± 5°F
(41°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature The measured overshoot using the glass
bulb thermometer in the exhaust outlet can
be 30°F (17°C) higher.
5. If the exhaust temperature is not within specified limits, or you have come here from step 3, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (redwhite wire) at the connector. If the resistance is OK, check P14-3 and P14-6 to machine ground. If resistance is greater than 0 (zero), replace wiring harness. NOTE: All thermistor resistance measurements must be made while dryer is
disconnected from power. The following table gives temperatures and ranges for the associated thermistor resistance values.
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
50° (10°) 19.0 -22.0 80° (27°) 8.5-10.5 60° (16°) 14.8-16.8 90° (32°) 6.8-8.8 70° (21°) 11.5-13.5 100° (38°) 5.0-7.0 If the thermistor resistance does not agree with table, replace the exhaust thermistor. If the thermistor resistance checks agree with the measurements in the table, replace the machine control electronics.
TEST #4b Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is wired in series with the dryer drive motor.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal fuse by first removing the back panel.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal fuse. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal fuse.
TEST #4c Thermal Cut-Off
If the dryer does not produce heat, check the status of the thermal cut-off.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal cut-off by first removing the back panel. .
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal cut-off. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal cut-off and high limit thermostat. In addition, check for blocked or improper exhaust
system.

TEST #4d Gas Valve
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the gas valve by removing the front panel and drum assembly.
3. Use an ohmmeter to determine if a gas valve coil has failed. Remove harness plugs. Measure resistance across terminals.
0helpful
1answer

Maytag gas dryer model SDG4606AWW timer wont rotate on any cycle, dryer just keeps running until knob is rotated manualy to off, replaced timer and new one is doing the same, took dryer compltley apart,...

I don't have a Maytag schematic handy but there should be one on or in the dryer. Trace the clock wiring back until until you get voltage. I am betting one leg of the time motor goes to the drum motor (Gray wire maybe) and the other leg to the dryness sensor module (brown wire). Check these wires against both Line and Neutral. That should tell of it's the module or the motor block.
0helpful
1answer

Troubleshooting m460g timer

you should have power across the two wires to the timer while it is running . Power needs to be on the timer for it to work. One wire should be low ohms to the ground or metal surface and the other wire should be the power wire to the timer motor. if no power on the other wire to timer follow it back and you may find an open in a door switch or temp switch. good luck
0helpful
1answer

No heat from tumble dryer

Hi.

If dryer is electric check for lint obstructions, check ventilation, test thermal fuse, thermistor, cycling thermostat and high limit, element and fan.

If dryer is gas check for lint obstructions, check ventilation, test thermal fuse, thermistor, cycling thermostat and high limit, igniter, coils, burner, flame sensor and fan.
1helpful
1answer

I have a maytag dryer, model # MDG4000BWW. It has...

check the high limit/cycling switch thermostat located on the heat housing ,you will need to remove the front panel to access this,then, bypass the high-limit with a jumper wire and see if the flame stays on longer,if this doesn't help, then check the radiant senser on the tube also they get dirty,you can clean the senser eye or bypass this also and see if its weak,if not then replace the 2 gas coil valves on the gas valve body as these will get weak and shut off the gas supply
May 20, 2010 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

Maytag elec. neptune dryer won't heat

The first thing I would check would be your high limit thermostat. It is located near the heater and is wired in series with the heater. The contacts in a high limit thermostat remain closed at temperatures below 250 degrees. The contacts will open and interrupt the circuit to the heater when the operating thermostat, thermistor or electronic control fails to cycle properly. The most common condition that causes the high limit thermostat to operate are vent restrictions, blower failure or a defective operating thermostat or thermistor.
If those are good, then,

Check your dryer heater. With both heater power terminals disconnected you can check for resistance. The typical dryer heater resistance is around 20 Ohms.
If you can not read resistance on the dryer heater then it is an open circuit and needs replaced. Also if your meter indicated an electrical path between either of the heater terminals to the heater frame (ground) then it’s bad. The heater must be isolated from its mounting frame.



0helpful
1answer

Maytag MDG5500 - heat goes off after several minutes

Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
4helpful
2answers

Maytag model MDE9206AYW will not heat. Checked coil, fuses and limits and am now trying to check cycling thermister. Can you tell me how? also do you have any suggestions. suspect dryer went out during...

My generic wiring diagram doesn't show this dryer uses a thermistor, only thermostats. The difference is a thermistor has to have an electronic control to interpret the values the thermistor is sending. A thermostat is mechanical and only open or closes at a preengineered temperature. You would need to check the ohm readings of a thermistor at different temperatures to test it, but you only need to know continuity or no continuity to test a thermostat. First make sure you have 240 volts to the dryer, the heater is the only part that needs 240 to run. It's possible for only half of the breaker to trip and give the dryer only 120 volts, in this case everything but the heater would run. If you've got 240 volts, to the dryer, unplug it, then check for continuity between the 2 terminals of the 2 thermal fuses, cycling thermostat, and hi limit thermostat and heater. Remember you must disconnect one wire before testing to prevent incorrect readings. If it still runs, just no heat, the 2 thermal fuses should be ok, but check them anyways. If they all test ok you'll need to check the temp selector switch. You'll need the wiring diagram to show which terminals to check at each heat setting. If that checks out you'll need to move to the timer, again you'll need the diagram. If the timer checks, the only thing left is the centifugal switch in the motor, and the only way to check that is to test it with the motor running.
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