Question about Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer
JUst wouldn't start one day after doing one load successfully. I've read some issues on this site. My belt is intact and my ventilation definitely isn't clogged, so how would my thermal fuse have blown? Is there another way the thermal fuse can blow? I haven't had a chance to test it yet b/c I have to buy a meter!
My dryer light comes on for my Maytag SDE4606AYW dryer when you open the door and I can hear the timer clicking but when I hit start the motor doesn't even attempt to start but there is obviously power. My dad just installed a new power cord to the dryer but this is a seperate issue as we were obviously unable to check the motor before we got a cord for it. He has years of electrical experience so I'm assuming he connected the new cord right. Any ideas on fuses in the dryer or why it may not be getting power?
Posted on Aug 05, 2010
I have a maytag neptune that stopped in the middle of the cycle. Whenever I try to restart it I here a click, but I'm not getting anything more than that.
Posted on Aug 14, 2010
I cant get dryer to work got power it just quit during cycle checked start buttonalso belt good push start button get lights an power just wont start
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
Another way thermal fuses can blow without having a resticted vent is by opening the door or shutting down the dryer midcycle. When you start a drying cycle with wet clothes the heater is on for like 30mins straight and instantly stopping the air flow across it (by opening the door or other means) can make the residual heat open the fuse. Double check the vent though to make sure it isnt clogged.
Posted on Jan 15, 2008
Ok get back with me after and we will get it fixed and also a meter is a great thing can get a reasonable one at radio shack and i can teach you over web ok just need a basic meter nothing fancy but i like led display my self .once you get it down with a little common sense you can fix any thing hey you owe your self that lol one that goes to 440 volts with ohms will be fine ill explain what all that means later ok
Posted on Jan 15, 2008
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It sounds like that you have found the problem yourself. Remove the power cord and replace the terminal ends, or replace the entire cord.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
right with the heating element, first check for 220 volts at the element if you dont get 220 change the fuse if you do get it change the element... i can send you both parts if you visit whirlpoolpartssurplus.com and call me- mark
Posted on Jun 26, 2009
something is still plugged with lint,if the vent line is long blow it out with a leaf blower to clean it out,you have to clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into,if the filter is on top remove the vent line,remove the back panel,remove the lint filter and the two screws in front of it and remove the four screws and clean out the duct,if the filter is in front take off the bottom panel,remove the filter and clean the duct,also vac out the inside of dryer where the motor is,when the dryer gets to hot the thermal fuse pops as a safety so you still have a block somewhere
Posted on Mar 19, 2010
Hi and welcome to FixYa. You should check the dryer vent ducting inside and outside the dryer for restrictions / clogs to include the vent flapper. Poor air flow through the dryer will cause hot spots. If the blower is slipping on the motor shaft this too can cause poor air flow.
When you change the heating element AGAIN... break out the crevice tool and de-lint everything you can access. Also pull out the lint filter and wash it with white vinegar and water then soap and water. Fabric softener sheets material builds up on lint filters. It looks clean but air will not pass through the lint filter.
I think once you get it all ceaned up including all of the ducting to and through the outside wall it will work normally with no problems. I do not think at this time that you have an electrical problem with the outlet supply.
There is one more thing to check and that is the high limit thermostat. It could be STUCK. It will most likely be labeled L180 or L190. That thermostat is suposed to open at either 180 deg or 190 Deg depending on which one is installed. If it does not open then you will keep cooking your elements. We test them with a match and an Ohm Meter. Match under the removed thermostat CLICK. Thermostat opens (no resistance)
Wish ya the best.
Thanks for using FixYa.
If anything in the future crops up with this same issue.
Posted on Apr 10, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 24, 2013 | 2004 Yamaha YZ 250 F
Nov 12, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Aug 01, 2012 | Vacuums
Dec 18, 2011 | Suzuki Vitara Cars & Trucks
Aug 03, 2011 | 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan
Jul 19, 2011 | 1997 Jeep Cherokee
Mar 04, 2017 | Briggs & Stratton Garden
Transfer belt unit EEPROM error No response is issued from the device in reading/writing for 5 ms or more and this problem is repeated five times successively. Mismatch of reading data from two locations occurs eight times successively.
Mismatch between writing data and reading data occurs eight times successively
1. Poor contact in the connector terminals.
- Check the connection of connector YC28 on the engine PWB and the connector of the transfer belt unit, and the continuity across the connector terminals. Repair or replace if necessary.
2. Defective transfer belt speed PWB (inner transfer belt unit).
- Replace the transfer belt unit.
I hope this is helpful,
Mar 14, 2011 | Kyocera Copystar CS2540 Copier
May 07, 2010 | LG BD370 BLU RAY PLAYER
Dec 28, 2008 | Dryers
20,018 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: