How to remove and replace clutch on kenmore washer 110. series direct drive

you may need to replace the clutch

Can you provide the exact Make, Model and Kenmore model number? ..........

Kenmore model numbers use the format ###.######## with the first three digits of 110 for Whirlpool manufactured machines.........

The model number on top load washers is usually found by lifting the lid and looking above the tub.

The Fixya numbers are Stock Numbers.

Since basic top load direct drive, top load electronic and front load washers are very different, the actual Model Numbers are necessary to correctly diagnose the problem.


Slipping on direct drive washers is usually caused by a damaged / broken Motor Coupler or clutch.

If yours is a direct drive machine, see the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135&osCsid=5666a1d539401da8aec3c1514f2bc0f9

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

In order of difficulty, there are three possibilities.

1. It's possible that the Motor Coupler is worn / broken.

This is a three part plastic and rubber device that transmits power from the motor to the transmission. If it's worn and slipping you may hear the plastic pieces grinding against each other.

It's an easy repair.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135&osCsid=2e8e02b3755ab86d8e046bc88e9db27b

If the Coupler is worn, it's an easy and inexpensive fix.

2. It may be the clutch bands have worn.

See the following for how to remove the pump, motor and transmission. The clutch is on top of the transmission. Sears has replacement clutch bands.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to remove the drive tube and brake to change clutch bands.

If it isn't the motor coupler or clutch, it could be the "agitate cams" in the transmission.

These are plastic pieces that move the agitator drive shaft up about 1/4" when the washer goes into the spin cycle. If they are worn, you may hear a grinding noise.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

See also a more detailed description from Whirlpool of how their transmissions work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=1051095663c7f2d5997fa53b976529d6

I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.

The agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.

Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams and the Whirlpool part numbers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It is a bit of a messy job but much ($10 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.

Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Many of the Sears parts sites for washers have a section where you can see PDF versions of their manuals. Look to the right of the main sub-components list and you may see it.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Please see the following :

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to remove the agitators to remove the transmission and clutch.

when empty and off, open the lid and see if you can rotate the inner wash basket by hand. if you can easily, then the clutch is worn. This will prevent the basket from going into a high spin and wringing the clothes out. Replace the clutch by removing the top control panel, removing the clips that hold the cabinet, pull cabinet off, remove drain pump clips and pump, remove motor clips and motor, remove transmission (3 bolts). Now you will have access to the clutch, replace as needed, reverse dissasembly to complete. remember to unplug.

you had the clutch coupling replaced sometimes i have noticed that the smell will last a few loads but no more than that

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLPGs2UMUJc

This will explain it all.

if you need part number is 110---3360629 gearcase fo all direct drive transmission