Chef Electric Hotplates

That could happen if the pans are not compatable with the unit.

I haven't heard of this problem before. If you do press down and the hotplate starts to work we know that the hotplates are okay. The only thing this could be is an internal problem inside the hotplate controller, possibly with the contacts. The controllers will need replacing.

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you may want to think about a new unit, a glass replacement can cost from $600.00 to $900.00
just for the glass

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck

If you are running new wire to the cook top. You need to run 10x4 wire. The 12x4 wire is not large enough for the 220v. Also the 20 amp breaker is not large enough to run the cook top. You need to use a duel 30 amp breaker.

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try to use black to black: white to red: and green and white to ground.
you may not have a 240 volt supply to this unit. most of the time when you have these color wires that would tell me that it only has 120 volts of power.
you can try to wire it up as described, but it may not heat enough with just 120 volts.
what type of cook top did you replace, a gas unit and now your changing it to an electric one?
if so, then you will have to replace the wiring inside the wall with the proper size wiring to handle the extra current from an electric unit.

This is not to code. The white is neutral and is of the same polarity as a bare wire. The red and the black are considered hot and would be 220.

hi..gud day ur magic chef is smaller than maytag? do u think the space of ur old unit is enought to fit the new one? 5inc are different.u waste ur money.

4 wire recepticals are used for 220 Volt appliances, there should be 2 hot (117V to ground) and one each Grounding and grounded (read neutral) conductors) Breaker or disconnect should be 2 pole for 220 Volt circuit. A 20 Amp 110/117 Volt circuit would have a single pole breaker or disconnect, one "hot" conductor(should be black or colored , not green or white), one neutral conductor (should be white or neutral with white stripe) and an equipment grounding conductor (should be green or bare copper). It sounds to me like your receptical was wired for 220 V using whatever colored wires were handy. Back up to breaker or fuse (disconnect), and shut off circuit. New 117 Volt outlet will be wired with Black to Brass colored screw (short slot on face), One White wire will be used for Neutral conductor (make sure you know which one it is at the breaker panel) and one of the other white wires may (but shouldent be) used for ground (use green marker to identify it at each end),The third white wire should be removed if you can, otherwise cap with wire nut at each end and coil up in back of boxes. At the breaker/ fuse panel, the Black wire is connected to the breaker (It will be your "hot" lead), The white being used for the Neutral is connected to the neutral buss bar with the other Neutrals, and the green goes to the grounding buss bar (should have other green or bare copper wires. Once all is properly connected and secured but without the disposal plugged in, turn on the power and check for leaking smoke (smoke here is a bad thing) The fuse or breaker should protect your wires and help keep that smoke inside the boxes. Check voltages at the new plug, 117 V accross Short and longer slot, 117 from short to ground (round) and 0 or close to it from long (Neutral) to ground. If voltages check, plug in the new appliance and test.
If in doubt about what you have, dont hesitate to contact an electrician, they get paid for their knowledge and experiance and their ability to keep that nasty smoke inside the boxes.
Good Luck.,

15 amp cable

make sure that the white wires are indeed line and not neutral and you probably have the right idea but without a wiring diagram or seeing the unit I cannot confirm this just make sure you aren't hooking up line voltage to the neutral on the unit. also your service has only three wires correct? this means you are piggy backing the neutral and chassis ground (green wire on appliance) not cool on a trailer or manufactured home be careful bud