Had a PF code, unplugged the 4 pin probe connector and plugged it back in and fixes that problem until next PF code.....often. Ran perfect for a couple hours and turned it off for the night, when I restarted it the next morning the top blower works but the compressor nor the exhaust fan come on. I have emptied the tank, cleaned the filters, started and restarted, let sit for 10 minutes several times and tried again...compressor doesn't start nor the exhaust fan. The top blower works when on AC, smart, or fan. I have left it on for up to an hour several times (about 10 times actually) and compressor or exhaust fan still not working. any clues anyone?
After further inspection, the compressor seems to be working but , the exhaust fan isn't working. it was working when i turned it off for the night and then the next day it doesn't. and there is another small electric motor at the bottom of the unit with a red and blue wire that isn't working either. What about the capacitor? think it may have went out? thanksAfter further inspection, the compressor seems to be working but , the exhaust fan isn't working. it was working when i turned it off for the night and then the next day it doesn't. and there is another small electric motor at the bottom of the unit with a red and blue wire that isn't working either. What about the capacitor? think it may have went out?
thanks
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This unit stopped working and displayed the PF code for Probe Failure. I
fixed it by removing 6 screws for the panal and 4 screws for the back
panal and removing the 5 screws and 1 screw holding the ground wire off
the silver box with the circuit board in it then I un plugged the
little plug for the 2 probes with the black wires in it and replugged it
in and wiggled it several times with the unit pluged in (be carefull
not to get shocked I recomend someone with electrical experiance do
this for you) the plug must get corroded but this fixed my unit.
Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.
WHIRLPOOL - most models Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.
F1 - Analog control board Failure Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board F1 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - Oven temperature sensor open Replace oven temperature probe F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Oven too hot Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Clean temperature too hot Replace oven probe F5 - Door latch switch fault Test and replace the door switch.
Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:
F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop) Replace control board F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open Replace temperature probe F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted Replace temperature probe F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high Replace temperature probe F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot Replace temp. probe F5 - E0 - Check door latch F5 - E1 - Check door latch Replace switch if defective
WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:
F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error Replace ERC F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error Replace ERC F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors Replace ERC F1 E4:2 - Model ID error Reinsert keytail. F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error Replace ERC F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error Replace keypad assembly F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged reinsert the keytail F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open Test and replace top probe. F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted Test and replace temp probe F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature Test and replace temp probe F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature Test and replace temp probe. F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open Test and replace temp probe F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted Test and replace temp probe F5 E0:14 Door switch errot Test and eventually replace door lock switch F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating Test and eventually replace door latch F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error Test the cooling module. PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault. PF occurs when power is disconnected.
WHIRLPOOL Models SF3, 30'' and 24"
F2 - Oven temperature above specifications Check 8-pin connector from temp. probe to Electronic Oven Control F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature probe if necessary F5 - Push button stuck or faulty Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing) Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor) Replace ERC. F8 - Electronic control logic error Replace ERC.
The F31 fault code indicates a problem with the oven temperature sensor probe. The temperature probe is secured in the top of the inside back wall of the oven. Unplug the range to disconnect electrical power. Open the oven door and remove the racks. Remove the screws that secure the oven temperature sensor probe in the back wall of the oven. Carefully pull the sensor into the oven until you get to the wire harness disconnect plug. Unplug the sensor probe. Do not let the wire harness **** back through the opening in the back of the oven. Check the resistance of the probe with a volt/ohm meter. At room temperature, you should measure about 1100 ohms of resistance. Since you are getting the F31 fault code, you will not likely measure this resistance. If the resistance is bad, replacing the oven temperature sensor probe .This should fix your problem. You can order this part from the www.appliancehelponline.com
If the resistance of the temperature probe is normal (1100 ohms), then I recommend that you access the electronic oven control board in the console (with the range still unplugged ). Remove the upper back panel. Pull the P5 connector on the control board and measure the resistance through the purple wires (pins 12 and 13 as shown below) to check the resistance of the temperature probe through the circuit that connects to the board. If the resistance is drastically different than the 1100 ohms measured at the probe, then the wire harness is bad and will need to be replaced. If you measure the proper resistance through this wiring harness at the control board and the connections are good, then the electronic oven control board will need to be replaced.
1. Check for 12 volts DC (AC-off detect) at pin 3 of PC9A21, if missing replace PC9A21 part # 268P058020 on the Power PCB.
2. LED does not blink at plug in. Check for 5-volts DC at connector RF pin 3 (system reset) if low or missing suspect the reset switch S7L20 part # 432P089010 on the Control PCB.
3.LED does not stop blinking after plug in. Check for 12 volts at connect or PF pin 10 and 28 volts at connector PF pin 11, if the supplies are correct suspect a problem in the DM Assembly (part # 955C230001)
4. LED does not stop blinking after plug in. Check C9B01, C9B02, C9B03, C9B13, C9B14, C9B17 and C9B18 (1000 UFD, 16V, 105C) on the DM Power PCB located within the DM Assembly. If they are bad, replace them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). See service tip VS-76
5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature; this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds
6. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 4.7 volts DC at connector RF pin 4 and 5 on the Signal PCB if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D587001
7. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector RF pin 4 and 5 check good suspect the E2P PCB part # 935C978001
More then likely it is NUMBER 4, replace all caps if they look/check good or not.
The F30 error code indicates that the electronic oven control board detects an "open" oven temperature sensor probe circuit. This is usually caused by a failed oven temperature sensor probe.
Replacing this component will likely fix your problem.
You can order this part from www.searspartsdirect.com website.
If you replace this part yourself, be sure that you unplug the range to disconnect electrical power before accessing this component.
On some models, you can replace the probe by removing the screws that mount this component to the inside back wall of the oven. Carefully pull the probe inside the oven cavity until you encounter the wire harness disconnect plug. Unplug the sensor and replace it with the new one. Mount the new probe on the back wall of the oven.
On some models, you have to remove the lower back oven panel to access the sensor probe.
If you replace the probe and still have this problem, you will need to unplug the range and measure the resistance through the violet wires that plug into the control board (this is where the sensor probe circuit is connected to the control board). If the resistance through the oven temperature sensor probe circuit is normal (about 1100 ohms at room temperature) then the electronic oven control board will need to be replaced.
The F30 error code indicates that the electronic oven control board detects an "open" oven temperature sensor probe circuit. This is usually caused by a failed oven temperature sensor probe.
Replacing this component will likely fix your problem.
You can order this part from www.searspartsdirect.com website.
If you replace this part yourself, be sure that you unplug the range to disconnect electrical power before accessing this component.
On some models, you can replace the probe by removing the screws that mount this component to the inside back wall of the oven. Carefully pull the probe inside the oven cavity until you encounter the wire harness disconnect plug. Unplug the sensor and replace it with the new one. Mount the new probe on the back wall of the oven.
On some models, you have to remove the lower back oven panel to access the sensor probe.
If you replace the probe and still have this problem, you will need to unplug the range and measure the resistance through the violet wires that plug into the control board (this is where the sensor probe circuit is connected to the control board). If the resistance through the oven temperature sensor probe circuit is normal (about 1100 ohms at room temperature) then the electronic oven control board will need to be replaced.
The F30 error code indicates that the electronic oven control board detects an "open" oven temperature sensor probe circuit. This is usually caused by a failed oven temperature sensor probe.
Replacing this component will likely fix your problem.
You can order this part from www.searspartsdirect.com website.
If you replace this part yourself, be sure that you unplug the range to disconnect electrical power before accessing this component.
On some models, you can replace the probe by removing the screws that mount this component to the inside back wall of the oven. Carefully pull the probe inside the oven cavity until you encounter the wire harness disconnect plug. Unplug the sensor and replace it with the new one. Mount the new probe on the back wall of the oven.
On some models, you have to remove the lower back oven panel to access the sensor probe.
If you replace the probe and still have this problem, you will need to unplug the range and measure the resistance through the violet wires that plug into the control board (this is where the sensor probe circuit is connected to the control board). If the resistance through the oven temperature sensor probe circuit is normal (about 1100 ohms at room temperature) then the electronic oven control board will need to be replaced.
Hi. It is simple and easy to fix. E1 code for sensor behind right side grill. Take right side grill out, unplug sensor from wire socker and plug back. It is solve problem sometimes. Unit MUST be unplugged from outlet. If no help, you need new sensor .
The probe is located on under the main board low inside the only silver metallic box on the bottom w circuit board under it.Remove cover and immediatly you see a 4 inch black wire connected to the main board tucked under and mounted.Unplug the white connector from board, power on, then carefully plug the white connector back on, turn unit off and back on, you should see all 3 mode lights now on steady , no pf error and it doesnt turn off,and you can change modes and temps.Took an hour to take it part and dig around, mine works fookin great now.
After further inspection, the compressor seems to be working but , the exhaust fan isn't working. it was working when i turned it off for the night and then the next day it doesn't. and there is another small electric motor at the bottom of the unit with a red and blue wire that isn't working either. What about the capacitor? think it may have went out?
thanks
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