Dishwaher -Maytag MDB4100 - is making a terrible noise as it is attempting to fill and It does not fill with water. Could the fill valve be the problem? If so, where it located and how do I get there?

Hi, if there's no water at all, make these checks:
Is there water getting to the machine?
Is the water-volume selector switch set properly and are the control panel buttons pressed in all the way?
If you have a Maytag® washer, is the fuse (if there is one) in the control panel at the lid-switch bracket blown?
Is there a faint buzzing or humming noise coming from the water-inlet valve? (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If you can't hear anything, the water-inlet valve may not be getting any power. If you can hear some noise and there's water present, you may need to completely replace the water-inlet valve.

If there's no water at all, make these checks: If you have a Maytag® washer, is the fuse (if there is one) in the control panel at the lid-switch bracket blown? Is there a faint buzzing or humming noise coming from the water-inlet valve? (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If you can't hear anything, the water-inlet valve may not be getting any power. If you can hear some noise and there's water present, you may need to completely replace the water-inlet valve.

if it filled proplerly and won't start now, it sounds like the door switch is broken, there could be something wrong with the rest of the electrical systems, however i would suggest the switch first. If there is a lot of noise like its trying to run, then its probably your transmission.

Hi,
Here is a tip the will elaborate on your problem more, but the bottom line is that you need to replace that fill valve...

Dishwasher Trouble No Water entering Dishwasher
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4021363-dishwasher_trouble_no_water_entering

heatman101

it sounds like the fill float could be stuck in the full position and sticks during the rinse cycle check the float it is in the front to the left or right it looks like a bell, move it up and down and if necessary remove the front kick plate(s) and observe the mechanism as you move it up and down to ensure it is not hanging up.

power for your water valve is controlled by the timer and the float switch. You can remove the bottom cover to access the float switch and water valve. They both are on the left side of the unit, float switch is right up front and water valve is on the bottom. Test float switch continuity with ohms( always test ohms with power off!) and check for ac voltage at water valve. You can make a test lead and hook up water valve straight to ac to by-pass timer. If you need any more help let me know. Here is a parts and wiring diagram


http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=MDB9150AWS&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=1

go to managemyhome.com and pull your manual up from there.

A common problem with noises from washing machines has been the under wire that may come out of small clothes. In the washer they can get stuck in one of the inner basket holes and make a scrapping noise, they can actually make there way into the pump and jam the pump, or make a terrible noise when the pump is running. Grab a flash light and have a peek inside the washer for this. Front load washers seem very common to this happen! If the tiny cloth  is showing signs of fraying, may be best not to wash it in the washing machine, replace the cloth.


Maytag Dependable care washer.....Locate a 1/4 inch screw on the side of the agitator, ( about 3/4 of the way down) remove this screw and lift up on the agitator...picture.
 
Maytag Atlantis, Norge, Performa by Maytag.....Remove the cap and softener dispenser by pulling it off and locate the agitator bolt, remove bolt and lift up on the agitator...picture.


Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.
 

Check to make sure that the drainline is not backed-up or obstructed. If water is draining properly, you may need to reprime your washer. It may have been turned off before being completing its cycle. To Prime, Start the dishwasher and slowly advance the timer, till you hear the water valve open and fill. Let the washer do the rest. If a loud whining noise appears and does not go away after filling, check the motor to make sure it is not locked up. If locked up. Turn washer off and attempt to turn the impellor. Once free, it should be ok

Hi Mingsten 1) check the water valve under the sink make sure it is open. 2) check if the water line is pinched or twisted 3) if you have a meter you can check if you get power to the dishwashers water valve ( it is under the dishwasher. behind the kick plate.) you will have to remove 2 or 4 screws to get to it. hook up your meter and close the door. wait for the pump out and check for 110-120 volts when the dishwasher should fill.. 3) if you have power at this time you will need a need dishwaher water valve.. 4) if you get no power then you may have other problems ( let me know and we can go deeper) I hope this helps let me know...