Question about Maytag 24 in. MDB5651A Built-in Dishwasher
For the last couple of weeks the dishwasher has been stopping in the middle of the cycles and restarting. sometimes it wouldnt start at all. Today when I seen it there was a light on the control panel and now there is no reponse to touch controls.
We have the same problem of not being able to select a wash cycle, or the 9 min rinse keeps flashing.
What I found was to turn off the breaker to the dishwasher, unscrew the inside panel ( about 12 Torx screws ), remove the black cover on the computer ( 1 hex head screw ) remove the ribbon cable coming from the front panel by easing down the plastic locking tab, then take a soft clean cloth and gently wipe the end of the ribbon cable (both sides) and reinstall. This keeps our machine working for another couple of month, when I go thru the same exercise again. I think it is condensation that makes the ribbon cable connection bad or short across two of the lands.
The handle is another problen, I have changed this 3 times.
Went out this weekend and bought a Bosch.
Posted on Nov 09, 2009
The flex cable shown in the pictures above was bad on my unit also. It looks to me like they are pulling too much current through this cable to run all the LED's on the front panel. Mine died the instant death so I removed the touch pad and traced out the wiring.
The start/cancel switch is a connection between pin 6 and pin 10 on the ribbon cable. There is a 10K resistor in series with the switch to limit the current.
I tried to order the part from my local parts house and was told it was a special order only and would take about 4 weeks to get. Later I found you could purchase it off the internet and not have to wait quite as long. Since the replacement part is the full plastic piece across the top of the door I decided to try a mod. The touch panel is just glued to the plastic piece so I removed it completely. That leaves some glue that will need to be cleaned up but I can do that later.
I found a C&K momentary push button switch that fit in a 1/4 inch hole. I drilled the front panel in the center to accept the switch. If you moved it to one side it might not conflict with the latch switches quite as much but I made it fit.
I then looked in my junk box and found two pieces of 18 gauge wire and one 10K resistor. I put the resistor on the normally open pin on the switch and then connected a wire to that. The other wire went to the common pin on the switch.
When you look at the control board the pins are labeled as 2 on one end and 18 on the other. You only see every other pin as there is another row that is buried. You need pins 6 and 10 so they are on the visible row. Use a small soldering iron and connect the two wires up to those pins. It does not matter which one goes where.
Put it all back together and push the button. You do not have all the flashing lights or options but I am now washing my first load of dishes in several weeks.
I will probably purchase a new panel but we will have clean dishes while we are waiting for it to get here.
Posted on Jul 12, 2008
I purchased a new control panel, control board and door latch assembly. It was the control panel. I replaced all three so hopefully I am good to go for a while. I have a good used control board and door latch if anyone is interested.
Posted on Jun 14, 2008
The control panel (buttons on front) to my washer was dead. I removed the flex cable from the circuit board, cleaned the contacts with a pencil eraser, wiped it off with rubbing alcohol, reinserted and now it works. It might not work for you but it's worth a try. The flex cable comes out by sliding the latch on the white connector (on the circuit board) down and then the cable can be pulled out. Make sure the cable gets inserted all the way when reinstalling. Good luck, hopefully it works for you too.
Posted on Mar 20, 2011
The solution proposed by George_Wind worked great for me when the Start/Cancel button failed on my QS300. Thanks George for tracing out the wiring on this POS!
Posted on Jun 03, 2010
My Maytag Quiet Series 300 has a 9 (for the quick cycle) blinking on the LED display. No other buttons respond and the cancel option will not repond. I have tried disconnecting the power to no avial. Someone suggested pressing heated wash, heated dry then repeat to reset. I don't have a heated wash option, only heated dry.
Posted on Aug 19, 2009
I just went to the Maytag site to find out why my dishwasher isnt properly working....The recall page shows model and seriel numbers that are under recall for elecrical problems.
Posted on May 02, 2009
Mine was having the same problem, the start button wouldn't work, only a couple of buttons worked and it would blink 81 or 20 and then never run. The front control touch panel is a series of laminate plastic sheets glued to the front top of the dishwasher. I ripped it off the dishwasher, pulled the front black labelling laminate sheet off the others, and saw that a couple (the "Heated Dry" and "Sanitize") touch button openings in the middle laminate sheet had a little dark colored liquid (just a drop or two) in them which was shorting out some of the flex leads in the laminate. I separated the back laminate from the front two on the right hand side up to the liquid, and was able to wipe it out. Dishwasher working again (at least for now), and the buttons all seem to respond normally again. I still need to stick the laminated touch control panel back together and onto the top front of the dishwasher.
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
My QS300 also keeps breaking handles but door opens. The front touchpad went crazy. Would not respond to any function. Lights would flash and even go out completely. Cycles would start and stop randomly and start up again later. After reading possible solutions above, I tried to fix before junking. I shut off electrical breaker, removed all torx screws from inside door panel and separated panel from door. Inside door is a circuit card box with a flat flex wiring loom going to circuit board. 2 hex head screws hold the box on door and 1 screw holds box together. I carefully slid the end of flat wiring out of plastic contact and dried with soft cloth. I dabbed cloth on circuit board to possibly dry while unit was apart. After putting door back together, I turned power on. Everything works as normal. This must be a moisture problem with these models. My research today reveals many identical problems on the 300 series. If you are having any touchpad electrical problems I suggest the above procedure to dry wiring and contacts
Posted on Feb 18, 2010
No solution, just the same problem here. Mine seems to happen (having the electric die) when someone opens the door mid cycle. The steam affects the electrical in the door. Normally, once it dries out for a few days, it will come back on. Now it's totally dead. We have only had ours for one year.
Posted on Jun 14, 2008
Check your model number and go to the Maytag website. I was having problems with mine and found that it had been recalled. They are sending someone out to fix it next week, free of charge.
Posted on Aug 05, 2010
I'm having the same issue, and not for the first time. I've already replaced the control panel once and the broken door latch once. For the price of repairs, I could have almost bought a better dishwasher. Which is exactly what I'm going to do instead of fixing the control panel on this one again.
Posted on Jun 07, 2008
Mine was also doing the all lights dead, nothing works thing.
I took the door apart and pulled the ribbon cable out of its retainer. Rubbed the contacts with an eraser and then wiped with a damp paper towel. After 10 minuets drying I put it all back together and turned on the power.
First press of start button and all lights came on and its working fine
Posted on Oct 31, 2011
The only solution I have is buy another one. I also purchased from Home Depot, and purchased the extended warranty which of course was up a couple months ago. I am told that parts would be over $400 (panel and handle) plus instal, this after spending almost $200 on metal rollers to replace the plastic ones. I was also told doing this myself would not be easy. I called Maytag and was told no luck. I emailed them as well but did not receive the courtesy of a response. I should mention that the motor was replaced under warranty within a year of purchase.
Posted on Oct 13, 2008
I was able to do the hack to get by. Radio Shack sells a 4 pack of 125 volt Mini SPST Momentary Switches (2 red & 2 black) #2751547 $5 and a 5 pack of 10k resistors #2711126 $2. They have 18 gauge wire for sale too. You only need about 6 inches for each wire. It's a pain to solder the wire to the short pins sticking out on the back of the control panel circuit board because it's so small but it can be done.
I peeled off the old control panel and ran the two wires soldered to the control board through the hole where the ribbon went through. I then soldered a switch and resistor in series (the order does not matter) on to the wires and just let it dangle there. If you want you can wrap some electrical tape around the button and wires but myself never got shocked pushing the button.
Eventually you will need to buy the whole top plastic part that includes the control panel. It's not sold separately and not repairable. I found it on-line for $126 total shipped.
For the new replacement I used clear GE Silicone (Home Depot #469301) to fill in the opening on the back side of the panel where the ribbon comes through and around the steam exhaust foam gasket. I also peeled off the old steam exhaust gasket and added it on top of the new one using silicone to glue it together.
I also found that the black sound dampening pieces glued to the plastic interior had slid down over time. I peeled them off and reattached them with spray trim adhesive.
My theory is that the steam gasket shrinks in time allowing steam to enter into the inside of the door since I found water calcium deposits on the inside. The steam gets everywhere and on the flex circuit cable causing it to corrode and fail in time. Took 6 years for mine to fail running it every other day.
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Posted on Feb 12, 2016
I found a defect with my ribbon cable. There must have been a problem with the coating as the wire corroded and ultimately shorted. You can see the short on the 9th wire from the left side (near the center of the picture, appears as a white dot). I will need to buy a new cable. There goes $120!
Posted on Nov 03, 2015
This is one of the few sites that has helped me through fixing anything! I tried cleaning the end of the ribbon cable, but that didn't work. I watched a great video on You Tube that helped me find the problem. www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6t60XHeSUc Maytag Dishwasher Touch Pad Problem Repair Fix MDB7601 Control Panel... This is a Quiet Series 400 so it's a tiny bit different but so helpful. I ended up getting a new front panel for $150 from Appliance Parts and I got it the next day. Works great now! I saved a lot of money not buying a new dishwasher! Thanks for all the advice.
Posted on Jun 02, 2015
Just after an hour of discovering the control panel is not working I received a call from Sears where I purchased the DW regarding a recall because of fire hazard. They are going to fix the fire hazard or give $150-250 rebate toward certain Maytag models. I am going for new model after all these posts and seeing how flex circuits (ribbon board) from circuit box is connected to flex circuits on the control panel. It looks to me two flexes are pressed together where there is no cover/coating to protect the conductors. Thats where mine had problem.
Thank you Gorge for the solution. I forgot to put 10k resistor but it is washing the dishes now. I don't know which cycle but I don't have to unload the machine and handwash.
Its very bad to see a good machine going to garbage because of a small design problem.
Posted on Jul 03, 2010
Does anyone who has "hacked" this to work have any more details they can share? What type of C&K momentary switch did you use Gorge_Wind, and jdshewchuk, did you peel the plastic off completely, or just the section above the buttons? Any help would be appreciated. I have wanted to replace this POS since we bought the house, but the economy has put a stop on not needed now purchases. thanks in advance
Posted on Apr 20, 2010
I'm Having the same problem. In addition (it is Nov. 2008), I'm told by the Maytag service center that the control panel (part #99003530), is "obsolete, and is no longer available"!
Posted on Nov 06, 2008
I have the same issue, no power on the control panel board with the same maytag dish washer. The only way Maytag will get involved is if it looks like they may not make money selling cheap **** or if the general public sees or hears about these and other types of issues.
Big companies don't usually care about products they've sold. However they do seem to be concerned if they cannot sale more products.
Posted on Jun 06, 2008
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