Maytag MGR6772BDS Gemini Gas Kitchen Range Logo

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Posted on Oct 05, 2010

Maytag gemini MGR6772@BDW broiler does not ignite. What should I check and or adjust

3 Related Answers

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Nov 18, 2007

SOURCE: maytag gemini gas oven

you have to allow the broiler to warm up. give it a few minutes (maybe even ten) eventually the broiler will come on.

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Anonymous

  • 5911 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 22, 2009

SOURCE: Maytag oven won't ignite, broiler o.k.

You may have a simple problem of a defective igniter. The following link explains igniters and how to access the them on a gas range:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r401858-replacing_oven_igniter_gas_range

If you are having ignition problems with one of the oven manifolds (bake or broil), it may be a simple matter of a weak or bad igniter. Just because an igniter glows, does not mean it is good. If the igniter is weak, the gas safety valve will not open and gas will not flow.

NOTE: If BOTH manifolds were experiencing the same problem, you would potentially have had a bad regulator or electronic oven control (EOC) board. The EOC controls all your oven features.

A replacement igniter for the model number you have this question posted under is 12400035. The cheapest web site I could find it listed was pcapplaincerepair.com and appliancepartspros.com for about $40. The part comes complete with installation instructions as well.

If you require additional assistance, please let me know. If your model number is different form the one listed, please post back with your correct information so that I may assist you better. The model number should be located on a name plate around the oven door, or lower drawer opening. Some manufacturers place the model number on the back of the operator console.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this is helpful to you.

Anonymous

  • 5911 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 15, 2010

SOURCE: how do you ignite pilot light on maytag gemini

There is no pilot on most modern appliances that use a gas source for ignition. The burner manifolds in the oven each use a glow bar or electrode type igniter with a gas safety valve to ignite. Both oven manifolds are controlled by the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board, which is your clock/timer on the control panel. you can isolate the problem by following these tips:
1. If the surface igniters work, but the oven does not, the problem is NOT a gas related issue as the surface burners and oven are commonly fed from the same source.
2. If BOTH oven igniters are not working, you more than likely, have a control board problem, or two weak or failed oven igniters (not common).
3. If one of the igniters is still working (there's one for broil and one for bake), then the problem is probably NOT the control board, but an igniter issue.

Igniters grow weak with age and occasionally need to be replaced. Just because an igniter glows, does not mean it is good. If you are experiencing longer ignition times, or no ignition, this is most likely the case. The following link explains a little theory about these igniters and how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575727-replacing_an_oven_igniter_on_a_gas_range

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between these sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also offer helpful exploded view diagrams to help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The part number(s) for the model you have listed are as follows:

Bake Igniter (series 10)* - 74007399 Bake Igniter (series 11)* - 7432P143-60 Broil Igniter (series 10 and 11)* - 74007966
* The series is determined by the first two digits in the SERIAL NUMBER. If the number begins in "10", but is less than "11" it is a series 10. If the numbers is "11" or greater, then it is a series 11.
If you have any questions please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

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My Gemini double oven needs to heated to 550 degrees before the broiler will ignite. I've been dealing with this for years. How can I fix this issue? Jim

Hi,
This repair you had done was to repair and prevent the door to the upper oven from building with gas as the broiler was know to do. This was a safety issue for the time period UL required. You can select the low broiler to speed up you preheat time but there is no known fix to by-pass this mode. Sorry for the bad news, good luck

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

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Hi, Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go intothe self clean mode(self destruct)....check out this tip...

Self Cleaning Oven Problem


heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaningoption. Thanks for the info!!
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My experience with this is that it occurs when moisture gets into the ignitor area and shorts out the open and causes the spark. It stops after it drys out.

This is very non-techinical and I will defer if there is a deeper solution.
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You probably need to replace the baking igniter, (Igniter,bake burner
Part Number: AP4102011 made by MAYTAG).

I tested the igniter function by (CAREFULLY) jerry rigging a bridge to wire the BAKE igniter to the BROILER controls. (Push/click plugs accessible by opening up the stove back) Testing the broiler controls this way the bake element remained cold. I then did the same test but connected the BROILER igniter to the BAKE controls and got a good glow. This indicates that the controls work but the Bake igniter's faulty!

You can access the bake igniter by removal of 2 screws at the front at the platform just inside the top oven. The broil and bake igniters appear to be identical but the push/click plugs are reversed at the back of the stove. (hence the CAREFUL jerry rigged wiring bridge.) The parts and wiring are pretty simple and visual once you get the covers off. Opening up the stove back is just a matter of removing several screws. UNPLUG the stove before you work. If you test as I described, make all connections while UNPLUGGED and then plug it in only for the brief test. Unplug again while disconnecting/reconnecting. Hope this helps.
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You didn't say if the problem is ignition or lack of gas flow. If ignition, it could be the pilot..if you have one..or the spark unit or its switch. If it is a gas flow problem, get a service person.
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You most likely have a defective spark module.
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Either a foreign object is blocking it, Or the gap for the spark may be set too little or too much, try adjusting the gap. Let us know :-)
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