I cannot find the cn810 jumper on my samsung hlr6167. I just replaced my color wheel that has the new air bearing and need to remove the cn810 jumper. Help please??????

if the picture is blue green there is a jumper to be removed on the dmd board on connector cn810--the index delay should be between 40 and 50 for optimum color --or adjusted for best flesh tone also in the options the cw setting should be set for cw2

did u not pull the jumper if u put in a new air bearing color wheel it spins much faster u have too pull the jumper on the board beside the little fan its black just pull straight out its black little plastic thing look on the silver slotted case youll see two little square opening one has the black jumper right there pull it out did mine already see ya

the new wheel is an air bearing type. you need to remove the jumper from cn810 on the dmd board. this will fix your color problems.

Hi,since you are getting the new silver air pressure version you will need to put an jumper to the dmd board,why because gold version spins different than sliver and that will produce the tv to have color discoloration or bluryness.Good luck and God bless you!

hi thanks for using fixya

There is a place for a jumper on your DMD (the module that the color wheel plugs in to) If the jumper is there remove it. If there is no jumper install one. On later models the pins are gone but solder pads are still there, solder it. Some wheels have air bearing and others have fluid bearing. You really should buy a service manual for that set. New color wheels sometimes come with CCA values that you must change in the service menu
Good Luck

Most times color does not to be reset. If you have a very ugly green or blue picture, then you did not pull the jumper on the dm board. This jumper must be removed when a bering type color wheel has be replaced with a new airless bering color wheel.

The jumper that you need to remove is a small usually black block of plastic approx 1/4" in across and 1/8" thick located near the center of the shiny silver colored apparatus into which the color wheel is plugged. Mine had a label that read FDB Bearing Color Wheel, BP67-00099A and two illustrations indicating open and shorted conditions. The label was just over the jumper. I pulled it out with needle nose pliers and the problem was solved. GndLoop

When I removed the jumper wire the screen color problems I experienced after changing the color wheel were fixed completely. I did not need to reset the CCA values (which came with my color wheel, on a separate sticker). If you have a black bracket blocking access to the jumper wire, as I did, you can access the jumper wire by removing the fan shown just to the left of the yellow and white sticker; there are two screws attaching the fan to the chassis below it. Next, remove the two screws that hold the silver clamshell (the housing for the circuit board) halves together. These screws are right behind where the fan just was, on either side of the protruding fins. They each have a spring under the screw head. You can then pull the visible half of the silver housing forward (with the bracket attached). You will then have access to the entire circuit board. Look for CN810 - it is located right behind where that bracket just was when it was all put together. Pull the tiny black plastic part (that has the jumper wire) off of the pins. Then reassemble the housing and put the fan back on.

the color wheel may spin but if you hear noise when it spins it's bad. the jumper is used when replacing one type of color wheel for a nother type. so donot remove jumper unless you've replaced the color wheel and the picture is bad. if the color wheel is good replace the DMD board. if the DMD is not available replace the optical engine.