Hear sawing noise under the car in sink with wheel rotation

https://www.rav4world.com/threads/suspension-noise-answer.89315/
https://www.rav4world.com/threads/front-end-rotational-noise.208841/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8AOKIO-5Ac
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LS3CcuFGGKk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Fw5PJuVKzA
https://www.rav4world.com/threads/bought-rav-4-1-today-and-grinding-noise-on-way-home.83171/

you should check the park brake cable please note that the rav4 uses a disc brake for driving but has internal brake shoes for parking/emergency braking they are located insider the disc

there sealed bearings and mass produced its not uncommon for them to go bad and road noise from tires can also be part of teh noise when the tred wears and wethers it can become stiff and relay unwanted noise one way to see if its tires or bearings is to drive on different paved roads not sure the speed conversion im thinking 70k is 55-60 mpg at this speed its most likely the bearings

bent suspension control arm, or bad strut on that side.

Chances are your cv joint is busted and needs replacing that is if your toyota is front wheel driven

dose it sound like a fast knocking noise it could be your CV joints connected to your steering in the wheels

I also bought a used 2006 RAV4 Sport (in 2008) and I am really happy with it. What you need to look for is for a clunk, pop or knock type noise when you are turning the steering wheel left of right. I noticed it when I test drove it. There is a service bulletin ST001-08 not a Recall. The dealer would have fixed it under the 36000 warranty but I don't know if it will be fixed after that. The 2006 RAV4 has no recall problems for the accelerator.

our 2007 Rav 4 had a clunk in steering when turning at about 28000 miles it was do to a weak stearing knuckle, had replaced, and went away

mcdevito75 here, It could be inner tie rod ends or most like ly worn CV joints in the front axles. Have your auto repair shop check these items for you.

I work for Toyota, and I will be glad to provide you with the actual answer:

The RAV/4 product is available in two models, a 4WD model and a 2WD model.
The difference between the two is on the 2WD model, there is no driveshaft going under the vehicle to the rear wheels, and no rear differential. There is no "RAV/2"; both models are called RAV/4's.

There is a lot of common confusuion about how the 4WD works. It is full time 4WD. In other words, it is always in 4WD. It does not "kick in/kick out/automatically engage", or anything like that. It is 4WD all of the time. But, when I say "4WD", that is sometimes mistaken for "all wheel drive", and, in this case, the RAV/4 is not "AWD". What this means is that if you raise the RAV/4 up on a lift, and put it in gear, 1 rear and the other side front tires will spin. True "all wheel drive" would have ALL 4 wheels spinning. This is not the case with the Rav/4. What the RAV does have, making up for not having "True AWD" on the 5 speed model, however, is a switch that locks the center differential in the transfer case, which, when engaged, applies a method of "locking" the 4WD system for maximum traction, but it is still not AWD. The automatic version doe not have this ability.
The last "true AWD" vehicle for purchase was a 1970's International Scout.
If you are considering purchasing a RAV/4, that is a very good investement. They hold their value quite well, and are virtually bulletproof; I do not make any "money" off my RAV/4 customers...
Just "gas station work". Very nice cars. I hope that this helps you, please feel free to comment back with any otherr questions...Glad to be of assistance.
Toyota Ed