No gas flow..will not light..have replaced gas tank valve and have cleaned everything, replaced ignitor battery, all connections both electrical and mechanical look good.

It's not the ignitor that you need to worry about, it's the pilot assembly (which may need cleaning) or the lamp's gas regulator.But, since you just replaced the tank, let's try something else first.

Turn the gas tank's valve OFF and disconnect the hose from the tank.
Wait 5 minutes and reconnect the hose to the tank.
Open the tank's gas valve VERY, VERY SLOWLY (Slow motion, slow).
Once the valve is fully open, try lighting the lamp again. IT may take a few clicks of the ignitor, so be patient. If the pilot lights and holds, you've solved the problem. Remember to always open the tank valve Very, Very Slowly.

If the above didn't solve the r, it may very well be tat the pilot is clogged and needs to be cleaned. Use canned compressed air with a straw nozzle (like you clean your computer with) to blow out the tip of the pilot and any other debris that you see. If that doesn't do the trick, you will need to replace the lamp's Hose/Regulator Assembly, as your is locked up. You can use a grill Hose/Regulator Assembly, which runs about $30.00 at hardware stores & home centers that sell gas grills and accessories.

I hope this helped you troubleshoot & solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.

Ronald, I doubt that the gas regulator has much to do with this problem, unless the tank valve is turned OFF or the gas tank is empty Have you tried match lighting the burners, to determine if you're getting gas to them? Also, check the spark ignitors at each burned for a grease build up. using a cotton ball and alcohol clean each ignitor tip.

If you've checked all of the above and you're now getting a spark at each burner, but little or no gas to the main burners, do the following:

Turn the tank valve OFF and disconnect the hose from the tank. Wait 5 minutes and reconnect the hose to the tank. Turn the tank valve ON VERY, VERY SLOWLY (slow motion, slow). Once the tank valve is fully open, light the burner farthest from the tank first and turn the burner to the highest setting. Does the flame height look correct? If so, light the remaining burner(s) the same way. Does their flame height look correct? If so, you solved the problem. Remember to always turn the tank valve ON very, very slowly.

Happy Grilling!!

My first question ... Is gas getting to the burners? Have you tried match lighting the burners with any success? If "NO" to both, if you're using bottled propane for fuel, is the tank empty or not turned ON?

If the tank has adequate gas, turn the tank valve OFF and disconnect the hose from the tank. Wait 5 minutes and reconnect the hose to the tank. Turn the tank valve ON, VERY, VERY SLOWLY (Slow motion, slow) until the valve is full open. Turn on and attempt to light the burner farthest from the tank. If it lights, turn it up to high and light the remaining burners the same way. If everything has returned to normal, you've solved the problem. Just remember to always turn the Tank Valve ON, VERY, VERY Slowly.

If that didn't solve the problem, did you have to remove the piezo ignitors when your replaced the burners. If so, the ignitors need adjusting, so that they are closer to the burner(s)

And, finally, if all of the above fails to solve the problem, you'll need to replace the grill hose/regulator assembly, as the regulator is permanently locked up. If you purchased the grill from Lowe's, you can get the whole assembly from them. Make sure you take the old one with you, so that you can match it up with the new one.

Hope this helps solve your problem and Happy Grilling!!

age of the grill is irrelevant, i am old and i still can do few thingzzzz...

i assume that your regulator is connected directly to the bottle, then hose to your bottle, then hose is connected to the regulator and other end to the grill?

or it is bottle, hose, regulator, grill?

you need to follow the path regardless, be outside, light breeze is better, no open flame in at least 20m (yards) radius in any direction.

1. close gas bottle/tank
2. disconnect, everything from the bottle
3. crack open tank valve and hear if gas is escaping, close valve back
4. connect regulator to the bottle and again crack open the valve, hear if you have esacping gas, allow actually whiff of gas against your cheek or wetted finger to establish the flow. close the valve
5. connect hose to the regulator (procedure is reversed if first is hose and then regulator), crack open the valve, hear for escaping gas, check against wetted finger and cheek if there is flow, close the valve
6. connect your grill open all valves on it and open valve on the tank/bottle. allow free flow for about 30sec, close valves on grill. vent grill for about two minutes, try to ignite any of the burners. if burner ignite, you solved the problem, if they do not, and you did have flow on all previous stages, close bottle valve, disconnect everything from grill, clean grill valves and nozzles (burner have nozzle inside!), reconnect and vent again, try ignite, if ignition occures, you solve the problem, if not, then you are due for new grill...

if at any stage you do not have gas flow, this meant that this particular piece of equipment is in trouble, this particular piece of equipment need then repair or replacement, under no circumstance pull apart the reducer! NO OPEN FLAME DURING TESTING!!!

It should glow almost a bright white. If its just an orange glow then replace the ignitor. Its probably just weak. If its weak it will not allow enough current to flow through it to open the gas valve. Good luck _MJ_

If this is a millivolt system then ALL your wiring connections have to be clean and tight. If there is just 1 connection that is not tight or corroded a little, then you will have your millivolts drop and it may not be enough to keep the main gas valve coil energized and the gas valve will drop out. Check your connections, including any crimped connections and wire nutted connections. Also check for any wiring for any worn insulation where the exposed wire may be grounding out. Hope this was of some help to you!! Good Luck!!

First, check to make sure that the ignitor is working properly. It should glow visibly if it is functioning properly. If the ignitor is working alright, and the burner won't light, then consider the gas valve coils. These electrical coils are above the gas valves and when energized, these coils open the gas valves and permit gas flow to the burner. If the coils are bad the burner cannot light. It is recommended that if any coils are suspected of being faulty, that both (all) be replaced at the same time and they will most likely come from the parts supplier as a set. Really sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.

there are a number of factors that can affect gas flow. #1. is the tank valve open? #2. check the POL spud [the thing that screws into the tank] for mud or anything that might plug the hole. #3. the regulator may be stuck, take a butter knife and tap the regulator with the handle lightly [that's the disc shaped thing that the POL is attached to]. #4. check the burner tube for restrictions such as a spider web or mud dauber nest

When the oven safety valve refuses to open and let gas through, it's almost always because not enough current is flowing through the ignitor. Often an aging ignitor will appear to be glowing pretty brightly but still won't draw enough current to make the valve open. The first thing to try replacing is the ignitor.

You describe your ignitor as "red and glowing" but oven ignitors normally get a lot brighter than "red" -- well into what I'd call yellow.