Was working on kenmore dryer and while plugged in. a wire touched metal now its dead.

washer timer, or door lid lock , check volt in water solniod

Sure can!
Most Kenmore style dryers have a heating element that has a long wire coil inside it, (often there are two wires or elements inside one housing). Regardless, if you have carefully checked the air exhaust, and you find it is "perfect" ( means no back-up heat from a plugged or impeded air flow) and you have determined the air flow inside the machine is like new, ( no back up there either), then what has possible happened is the wire heating element has wiggled loose and is touching itself, thereby shorting out and making super heat.
The wire coils are usually held loosely in place with white ceramic rings, to keep them from touching the metal housing. If you carefully remove the heating element "box or "tube" and look inside , you may be able to see the problem. Testing it with an ohm meter will not work, it will simply test OK. The element is made to heat at a certain temperature according to it's length, if it touches itself, the elecrttricity will take the shortest route and may make your element glow white hot in one spot. Be blessed.

You will have to take apart the dryer. First UNPLUG IT from the wall. Then pry up the top, gently - it is pressed on with plastic push screws. The top should fold all the way backwards, have something to support it so it doesn't break off. You should be able to see the switch now close to the top, inside the dryer. Unplug both wires then connect them. You can either electrical tape them together or hard wire them. Be sure the wires do not dangle too low as to touch anything. Tape up all connections on the wires. Replace the top, plug in and it should work.

if its an old 2wire service to the outlet have it checked,by law now its supposed to be a G.F.C.I. outlet installed anywhere outdoors,if it is get it replaced,depending how it was installed it may have one of the conductors bare wire touching the metal skin on the outlet box,a G.F.C.I. if properly working should trip its internal breaker,if it doesn't then its defective

First ck and make sure you have 220 volts to the dryer. It will run on 110v if one side of the breaker is bad. The other culprits are a limit switch heating element or thermal fuse. If you have 220 volts and the dryer runs just does not heat first turn off the power to the dryer and unplug the dryer from the outlet. Pull the dryer out and remove the lower back panel it is held on by several 5/16 hex screws. (not the back plate on the switch panel) Remove the back and your heater is on the lower right hand side and is inside an metal shell. The thermal limit is also on the metal shell and will have several wires running to it. And if you trace the wires from the element and this thermal limit it will go to the thermal fuse it is on the lower back slightly to the right of the dryer and has two wires run to it and is about the size of a dime or smaller. Unplug the two wires from the termal fuse and hook them together with a papper clip or just tape them together make sure it doesn't touch metal. (this will short it out) and then plug up the dryer and try it to see if it heats you do not need to hook up the vent. (make sure not to touch the back of the dryer and especially any exsposed wires. If it heats up your thermal fuse is bad replace it. If it does not you should check your heating element first unplug the dryer and reattach the wires to the thermal fuse. Then the heating element metal shell should be removed. First unplug the wires to the heating element and thermal limit switch and mark them so you know where they go. Next remove the screw at the top of the metal shell pickup and pull back on the shell to disengage it from the dryer. You can then remove it and inside is the heating element it is attached to the shell with 5/16 hex screws. Remove the screws and pull the heating element out of the bottom of the metal shell. Look closely and you should see the heating element break. The element is a coiled wire and when it heats up the wire actually grows in length and when it is off it cools and shrinks this causes fatique and the wire breaks over time. If the wire is broke replace the element. Look very closely use a pencil to move the wire slightly it is sometimes very hard to see the break. If broken replace the element and make sure not to touch the new element with your fingers this can case premature hot spots which causes the element to fail prematurely. If the wire is not broken then the thermal limit attached to the metal shell that holds the heating element is bad. Before doing any of the above you should look at all the wires in the back of the dryer and look for burnt or broken wires replace or repair them and check the dryer before any other repairs should be entertained. Before replaceing the back on the dryer clean all of the lint out of the back of the dryer and out of the dryer vent. This is very good insureance for the future of your dryer. Good Luck and I hope this is useful.

I would check the door switch. If it's bad, the dryer will not run. You can check it by taking the two wires going to it and tying them together. Be sure to tape them together so they will not touch metal and short. If the dryer runs, replace switch. If not you most likely have a bad thermal fuse and or thermal cut off.

Hello Friend, Your problem is very simple to fix. You're dryer needs a thermal fuse and or gas valve coils, both are very simple and affordable to replace. To replace the thermal fuse just remove back cover of dryer and look down where the air blows out. Now, just to the left where all the wires are you will see a white plastic part with two wires plugged into it. This part is called a thermal fuse. Just remove these wires and replace the thermal fuse. Now, if this don't solve the problem you will need a gas valve coil kit. To replace coils just remove front of dryer body and look below drum you will see the gas valve. The valve coils are located on top of valve (two little round black cylinders). It's simple, just remove the two screws from the little metal bracket that holds them down, unplug the wires from them and just lift them straight up off of the valve. Take notice that one has 3 wires and one has 2 wires. Just replace with new coils and plug wires back in and re-fasten metal bracket. Your dryer will run like new. Happy to help, Tim.

Hello Friend, Your problem is very simple to fix. You're dryer needs a thermal fuse and or gas valve coils, and maybe an igniter all three are very simple and affordable to replace. To replace the thermal fuse just remove back cover of dryer and look down where the air blows out. Now, just to the left where all the wires are you will see a white plastic part with two wires plugged into it. This part is called a thermal fuse. Just remove these wires and replace the thermal fuse. Now, if this don't solve the problem you will need a gas valve coil kit. To replace coils just remove front of dryer body and look below drum you will see the gas valve. The valve coils are located on top of valve (two little round black cylinders). It's simple, just remove the two screws from the little metal bracket that holds them down, unplug the wires from them and just lift them straight up off of the valve. Take notice that one has 3 wires and one has 2 wires. Just replace with new coils and plug wires back in and re-fasten metal bracket. Your dryer will run like new, if it doesn't then you will need to check the igniter. The igniter is attached to the end of the burner assymbly by one screw and a simple two wire plug. Inspect for breakage, and replace if needed. Happy to help, Tim.

Its possible that sometime when you were touching the wires that something came unplugged, or moved and short circuited

ck where ac cord is attached to dryer suspect burnt connections on terminal block ..or loose wire touching cabinet if block is burnt probably due to loose connection when screws were not tightened during install