Model# glet1041as1, S/N XE30404473 Dryer will not start. Thermal limiter appears to be good. (0.1 ohms resistance across terminals).

Get the schematic and look at the timer. there are two wires that you can jump across and verify that the timer is bad by bypassing it all together. If all your checks tested good then the timer is bad. If you have any doubt order the part from repairclinic.com because you get a full refund even if you put it in and it does not work

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Most likely a bad heating element and or bad thrmostats. you'll need to check these by ohming out after removing the rear panel to your dryer.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Your temperature thermostat or heater coil is most likely bad, you can test by ohming each. NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO), Heating Element or Hi-Limit Thermostat are all logical choices. If the dryer had an overcurrent condition that caused your terminal block to burn, you may have more than one problem. The component readings should be as follows:

Thermal Cut-Out - (0 ohms)
Hi-Limit Thermostat - (0 ohms)
Heating Element - (9-13 ohms)

If the either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, you need to replace BOTH of them at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you do replace. These components are commonly sold as a set for this reason.

NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance checks with the dryer UNPLUGGED and any components under test should be isolated (meaning disconnect any wires). This ensures you don't have any false readings due to parallel resistance paths.

The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located on the outside of the heater box where the heating element is located. The TCO will be the component at the opposite end of the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat will be adjacent to the heating element terminals.

Also, I know an electrician wired everything up for you, but I would still recommend you double check the terminations at the terminal block. The wires should be connected as follows:

Match these corresponding colors at the terminal block -

RED - HOT (120 VAC)
BLACK - HOT (120 VAC)
WHITE - NEUTRAL (0 VAC)

GREEN (or Bare Copper) - Ground. Needs to be connected to the ground lug on the equipment cabinet. Ground and Neutral DO NOT get terminated together in a 4-wire configuration. Make sure these two wires are isolated from each other.

NOTE: If the wires are not color coded, the outer two terminals are the hot leads. The center terminal is your neutral.

If you have questions, please post back with your complete model number, so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.

All the heating and temperature control components are located in the back of the dryer. To access, unplug the dryer and remove the exhaust vent hose. Turn the the dryer around so you can view the back and remove the back panel. With the panel removed, the component locations are as follows:

Right-Hand Side:

1. Heating element - located inside the heater box. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is about 9 to 13 ohms.

2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

3. Hi-Limit Thermostat - located on the outside of the heater box adjacent to the heating element terminals. It works in conjunction with the TCO to help regulate the drum internal temperature. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, it is recommended that you replace BOTH components to prevent premature failure. These two components are commonly sold as a set.

Left-Hand Side:

1. Thermal Fuse - located on the blower fan housing. It is a small white plastic looking component with two wires attached. If defective, the dryer will not run at all. If the component is good it should read a short (0 ohms).

2. Internal Bias Thermostat - located on the blower fan housing adjacent to the Thermal Fuse. It has four wires attached to it.

NOTE: All resistance checks should be performed with the component terminal wires disconnected to prevent false readings.

If you have any questions, you can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you. The components I mention are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat replacement kit
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat sold separately
Item 17 - Heating Element
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Internal Bias Thermostat

If you need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

If your model number is correct, all the heating circuits on your dryer are easily accessible from the back of the dryer. All you have to do is unplug the dyer and remove the back panel. Look for the Thermal Fuse. This will be a small plastic looking component with two wires attached to it. Its mounted on the blower fan housing on the left hand side of the dryer (as facing from the rear). Unplug the wires from the Thermal Fuse and take a resistance reading across the terminals. If good, it will read 0 ohms. If bad, you must replace it.

This component will blow in an overheat/over-current condition and must be replaced. Usually when this component fails, it fails for a reason. Check your blower fan housing for any clogs or obstructions that may be causing the dryer to run hot.

For clarification, refer to appliancepartspros.com for exploded view daigrams of your dryer. Just type in your model number and look under Section 3 for item 19 (part number AP3132867).

Something else to consider:

1. Does the dryer have multiple breakers? An electric dryer runs on 220VAC. Some home use two 110VAC breakers instead of one 220 breaker. Double check your power distribution and make sure you have the breaker(s) set properly.

2. Have you checked the voltage at the wall receptacle? Unplug the dryer and take a voltage reading across the two hot (left and right slots) terminals. If good, you should read 220-240VAC.

3. Have you verified the power cord is good? You can check the power cord by leaving the dryer unplugged and remove the back panel where the power cord is installed on the back of the dryer. This is called the terminal block. You can either perform continuity checks between the prongs on the cord to the terminals at the terminal block, or you can plug the cord back in and take a voltage reading across the RED and BLACK wires at the terminal block.

If good, you should read the same 220-240VAC that you read at the wall receptacle.

If continuity is good you will read 0 ohms resistance from the end of the power cord to the terminal block.

4. Have you verified the door switch? When you open the door is the drum light on? With the dryer plugged in, you should be able to open the dryer door and see the light on insode the drum. Toggling the door switch with your finger, this light should go out if the switch is making contact. If the switch is defective, the dryer will not run.

I hope I've given you enough items to consider. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

A fuse is tested using the continuity or resistance (ohm) setting on a multimeter.

Disconnect the power to the dryer. Disconnect the leads to the fuse. With the meter set on continuity, the meter should beep - if you set to ohms, you should read 0 ohms across the terminals of the fuse. If you read infinity, the fuse is bad.

Unplug unit! Remove top screws and pull off top lid of dryer. Heater terminals should be at top right. Use ohm meter to check resistance. If ohms won't display, then your heater unit probably has an open circuit. For instance, my GLET1031 has a reading of 12.5 ohms.

If the heating element read 0 ohms with the wires removed, you have an open heating element, (should be around 10 ohms) replace heating element and you should be ready to rock.

This may be a little overkill, but I thought I would try to be thorough.

If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side as you are facing the back of the unit. The Hi-limit thermostat will be the closest to the heating element terminal, while the TCO will be located on the on the opposite end near the top of the heater box housing.

If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side. If you own a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet model, the lower panel is removed by loosening the screws under the bottom edge of the lower panel.
The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side under the drum as facing from the front. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the heating element terminals, while the TCO is located furthest to the back of the dryer on the heater box housing.

The operating thermostat and thermal fuse (if equipped) are usually located on the blower fan housing.

CAUTION: It is recommended that you unplug the dryer BEFORE servicing the inside or cleaning. There are still dangerous voltages present even with the machine turned off.

Symptom:
Dryer Runs, But Does Not Heat:

Suspected Components:

1. Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
3. Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) – Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
4. Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, approx. 7 ohms across the other.
5. Bad Heater Relay (usually located in the console) – this is not equipped on all model dryers. However, on dryers that DO have them, this acts as a switch and turns the heater circuits on at the push of the START switch.

NOTE: It is HIGHLY recommended to replace the High-Limit Thermostat and TCO at the same time of one or the other is found to be defective.


Dryer Does Not Run At All:

Suspected Components:
1. Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms. NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, the drum light will not come on.
2. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
3. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
4. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
6. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
7. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.

These recommendations for TROUBLESHOOTING are not all inclusive as different manufacturer models vary in components and configuration. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back if you have any further questions.