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Thanks for your help. The heater has died the other day on Thursday night on the 6th of December! I took it to some one that fixes them for the liveing and he told me that it was dieing slowly. It was best just to let it died anyhow! Thanks agian.Thanks for your help. The heater has died the other day on Thursday night on the 6th of December! I took it to some one that fixes them for the liveing and he told me that it was dieing slowly. It was best just to let it died anyhow! Thanks agian.
AnonymousMar 05, 2009
My PU9000 is new, less than 6 months old and has the same problem. Trying to find schematics and parts lists, but striking out. Patton is a part of Jarden Corp and you can find its user manual on a web site there, but not much else.
SteveMy PU9000 is new, less than 6 months old and has the same problem. Trying to find schematics and parts lists, but striking out. Patton is a part of Jarden Corp and you can find its user manual on a web site there, but not much else.
Steve
Open it up and clean it out. I mean, buy a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and squirt all of the contacts good. Below the fan there is a sensor mounted on the heater element box on the bottom. That gets dust in it and causes it to trip. Try cleaning it. While you are there, squirt the motor bushings good and dab a drop of synthetic motor oil (just a drop) on EACH motor bushing. Personally, I required this and bypassed all of the safety features. You can bypass that sensor with soldering or cutting any wires. All you have to do is unscrew the wires from the holder and then unscrew the tiny nuts and tiny bolts. Then bolt the together and put *** back in the holder and fighting the screw to hold it in. This method fixes the issue completely as it removes the sensor from the equation.Open it up and clean it out. I mean, buy a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and squirt all of the contacts good. Below the fan there is a sensor mounted on the heater element box on the bottom. That gets dust in it and causes it to trip. Try cleaning it. While you are there, squirt the motor bushings good and dab a drop of synthetic motor oil (just a drop) on EACH motor bushing. Personally, I required this and bypassed all of the safety features. You can bypass that sensor with soldering or cutting any wires. All you have to do is unscrew the wires from the holder and then unscrew the tiny nuts and tiny bolts. Then bolt the together and put *** back in the holder and fighting the screw to hold it in. This method fixes the issue completely as it removes the sensor from the equation.
MILKHOUSE HEATER "CAUTION LIGHT" SOLUTION: Before I explain, let me clear this myth up: this is NOT an issue with the pendulum safety switch (some mistake that for a "mercury" switch). To begin, unplug the heater. Open it up and clean it out. I mean, buy a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and squirt all of the contacts good. Below the fan there is a sensor mounted on the heater element box on the bottom. That goes bad and causes it to trip. While you are there, squirt the motor bushings good with the brake cleaner and dab a drop of synthetic motor oil (just a drop) on EACH of the two motor bushings. Personally, I rewired this and bypassed all of the safety features. You can bypass that sensor without soldering or cutting any wires. All you have to do is unscrew the wires from the holder and then unscrew the tiny nuts and tiny bolts. Then bolt the together at one end (note the position) and put it back in the holder and tighten the screw to hold it in. This method fixes the issue completely as it removes the sensor from the equation. In fact, I just did that on my third milkhouse heater and it has been running solid for the last 15 minutes. Use your modified heater with caution! Let the brake cleaner dry before you energize this device!
The MH-771 was slightly different than described, though. The thermal shutdown switch that turns on the Caution light was at the TOP of the heater element box and was riveted on with wires connected with quick disconnects. To bypass it without cutting or soldering wires, I simply got a pack of Radio Shack 64-3064http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.... adapters, bent one flat, connected the wires together and wrapped with electrical tape. Works like a charm, but as advised, be careful with the modified heater.The MH-771 was slightly different than described, though. The thermal shutdown switch that turns on the Caution light was at the TOP of the heater element box and was riveted on with wires connected with quick disconnects. To bypass it without cutting or soldering wires, I simply got a pack of Radio Shack 64-3064 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103503 adapters, bent one flat, connected the wires together and wrapped with electrical tape. Works like a charm, but as advised, be careful with the modified heater.
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To be absolutely certain what is turning on the caution light I'd have to see a circuit diagram on the heater. what it may be is that the air path is obstructed by something, the element is reaching too high a temperature and shutting off, if it has a fan, the bearings might be dry - hey! don't ever use wd-40 for lubing motors. use a light machine oil. the bearings in most of these heaters are oil-lite - sintered bronze. the material is porous enough to pass oil to the bearing surfaces and is free floating in their mounts.
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MILKHOUSE HEATER "CAUTION LIGHT" SOLUTION: Before I explain, let me clear this myth up: this is NOT an issue with the pendulum safety switch (some mistake that for a "mercury" switch). To begin, unplug the heater. Open it up and clean it out. I mean, buy a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and squirt all of the contacts good. Below the fan there is a sensor mounted on the heater element box on the bottom. That goes bad and causes it to trip. While you are there, squirt the motor bushings good with the brake cleaner and dab a drop of synthetic motor oil (just a drop) on EACH of the two motor bushings. Personally, I rewired this and bypassed all of the safety features. You can bypass that sensor without soldering or cutting any wires. All you have to do is unscrew the wires from the holder and then unscrew the tiny nuts and tiny bolts. Then bolt the together at one end (note the position) and put it back in the holder and tighten the screw to hold it in. This method fixes the issue completely as it removes the sensor from the equation. In fact, I just did that on my third milkhouse heater and it has been running solid for the last 15 minutes. Use your modified heater with caution! Let the brake cleaner dry before you energize this device!
Hi Caution light usually means something is out of place. Nothing will work until everything is in place and locked. Steady water light means it needs to be primed, (run water by opening the steam knob). It won't heat until the boilers are primed.
I also have the model 5620. with the yellow caution light on. After taking the unit completely apart I found 2 thermal fuses on the bottom of the unit(appox. size of a nickel). They are located under 'U" shaped brackets which are below the medal heating element. The thermal fuses do not reset. you could test them with a drip or two of souder or wire on the top - if you ran the heater this way it would be a safety problem as the fuse would be overridden. I am throwning mine away.
The red light is in conjunction with a safety. This is there in case something goes wrong, the heater doesn't overheat and possibly catch fire. If its not getting too hot, and its sounds like its not. The safety needs to be replaced. It will be a little disc shaped thing with 2 wires connected to it. If this heater also has a tip over safety, there also may be some type of mercury switch too. If you are so inclined, when you find the safety disc it should have some numbers on it. This indicates the temperature it is made to turn off at. After removing it, connect the 2 wires together and turn the unit on with a thermometer in the spot where the disc was. If the temp. doesn't go higher than the #'s on the disc after 45 seconds like you said, then you know positively that is the problem. If it gets hotter very fast, then the elements need to be looked at for defects. If there are no numbers on the disc or you cant find a replacement, then it may just be easier to buy a new heater.
Underneath the heater element are two thermostats that are run in series with each other. Inside the wire that connects them is a thermal fuse that opened up. Replacing the fuse corrected the problem.
According to the manual, the "Caution Light" means that the unit has overheated. They suggest running on a lesser setting, but you also may want to see if you can return the unit (if it is still under warranty).
Thanks for your help. The heater has died the other day on Thursday night on the 6th of December! I took it to some one that fixes them for the liveing and he told me that it was dieing slowly. It was best just to let it died anyhow! Thanks agian.
My PU9000 is new, less than 6 months old and has the same problem. Trying to find schematics and parts lists, but striking out. Patton is a part of Jarden Corp and you can find its user manual on a web site there, but not much else.
Steve
Open it up and clean it out. I mean, buy a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and squirt all of the contacts good. Below the fan there is a sensor mounted on the heater element box on the bottom. That gets dust in it and causes it to trip. Try cleaning it. While you are there, squirt the motor bushings good and dab a drop of synthetic motor oil (just a drop) on EACH motor bushing. Personally, I required this and bypassed all of the safety features. You can bypass that sensor with soldering or cutting any wires. All you have to do is unscrew the wires from the holder and then unscrew the tiny nuts and tiny bolts. Then bolt the together and put *** back in the holder and fighting the screw to hold it in. This method fixes the issue completely as it removes the sensor from the equation.
Sorry, I meant you can do this WITHOUT soldering or cutting wires.
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