Question about Patton PUH9000-U Heater

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The Caution Light ?

I have a Patton Heater And It has A Caution Light on it. It would run for 2 minutes then the caution light would come on then it turn off!

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  • helpmelarry Dec 08, 2007

    Thanks for your help. The heater has died the other day on Thursday night on the 6th of December! I took it to some one that fixes them for the liveing and he told me that it was dieing slowly. It was best just to let it died anyhow! Thanks agian.

  • Anonymous Mar 05, 2009

    My PU9000 is new, less than 6 months old and has the same problem. Trying to find schematics and parts lists, but striking out. Patton is a part of Jarden Corp and you can find its user manual on a web site there, but not much else.

    Steve

  • Clark with Big Toast Dec 11, 2012

    Open it up and clean it out. I mean, buy a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and squirt all of the contacts good. Below the fan there is a sensor mounted on the heater element box on the bottom. That gets dust in it and causes it to trip. Try cleaning it. While you are there, squirt the motor bushings good and dab a drop of synthetic motor oil (just a drop) on EACH motor bushing. Personally, I required this and bypassed all of the safety features. You can bypass that sensor with soldering or cutting any wires. All you have to do is unscrew the wires from the holder and then unscrew the tiny nuts and tiny bolts. Then bolt the together and put *** back in the holder and fighting the screw to hold it in. This method fixes the issue completely as it removes the sensor from the equation.

  • Clark with Big Toast Dec 11, 2012

    Sorry, I meant you can do this WITHOUT soldering or cutting wires.

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MILKHOUSE HEATER "CAUTION LIGHT" SOLUTION: Before I explain, let me clear this myth up: this is NOT an issue with the pendulum safety switch (some mistake that for a "mercury" switch). To begin, unplug the heater. Open it up and clean it out. I mean, buy a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and squirt all of the contacts good. Below the fan there is a sensor mounted on the heater element box on the bottom. That goes bad and causes it to trip. While you are there, squirt the motor bushings good with the brake cleaner and dab a drop of synthetic motor oil (just a drop) on EACH of the two motor bushings. Personally, I rewired this and bypassed all of the safety features. You can bypass that sensor without soldering or cutting any wires. All you have to do is unscrew the wires from the holder and then unscrew the tiny nuts and tiny bolts. Then bolt the together at one end (note the position) and put it back in the holder and tighten the screw to hold it in. This method fixes the issue completely as it removes the sensor from the equation. In fact, I just did that on my third milkhouse heater and it has been running solid for the last 15 minutes. Use your modified heater with caution! Let the brake cleaner dry before you energize this device!

Posted on Dec 11, 2012

  • Tiger-Heli
    Tiger-Heli Sep 15, 2014

    The reply above allowed me to get a MH-771 Heater working again.

  • Tiger-Heli
    Tiger-Heli Sep 15, 2014

    The MH-771 was slightly different than described, though. The thermal shutdown switch that turns on the Caution light was at the TOP of the heater element box and was riveted on with wires connected with quick disconnects. To bypass it without cutting or soldering wires, I simply got a pack of Radio Shack 64-3064http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.... adapters, bent one flat, connected the wires together and wrapped with electrical tape. Works like a charm, but as advised, be careful with the modified heater.

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To be absolutely certain what is turning on the caution light I'd have to see a circuit diagram on the heater. what it may be is that the air path is obstructed by something, the element is reaching too high a temperature and shutting off, if it has a fan, the bearings might be dry - hey! don't ever use wd-40 for lubing motors. use a light machine oil. the bearings in most of these heaters are oil-lite - sintered bronze. the material is porous enough to pass oil to the bearing surfaces and is free floating in their mounts.

Posted on Dec 07, 2007

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