My Lasko space heater's red "caution" light is on, and the heater no longer heats. What exactly is the message it's sending me? Element shorted out, switch not functioning, insufficient voltage? ls there anyway to reset it?
In the bottom of th e 5610 there are 2 automatic reset breakers. In betwene the two there is wire connecting them together. In the middle of this wire is a thermal resister and thats what repaired mine. Replace it and your heater will heat again.
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Re: Lasko 5610 red caution light, no power
The caution light is telling you something is wrong. most wired baseboard heaters have a hi limit cutout that may be bad. it is connected into the heater circuit as a safety device. you could jump out this element to test this theory. if the element is shorted, certainly it would blow a fuse or circuit breaker. if the element is open it won't heat at all. you need to take it apart and use a test meter to troubleshoot it.
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<p><b>Space heaters</b> are becoming more
common as people are trying to get their<b> energy costs</b> under
control. To try and s<b>ave money on heating</b>, many people are
<b>turning down the heat</b> for their <b>central heating systems</b>
and then heating just the area that they are in with a <b>small
electric space heater</b>.<br />
<p>While these<b> electric space heaters</b>
are relatively inexpensive, there are many people who want to repair
their space heater if it stops heating.
<p>If you have an <b>oil filled type space
heater</b> and it is leaking or you are thinking of refilling it then
check out this tip.<br />
Filled Radiator Heater Leaking</a><br />
<p>If you have an <b>electric hot air
space heater</b>, and it is not working, then there are only a few
things that can go wrong. The only parts that can fail are the
<b>switch(s) for the heating</b>, the <b>thermostat</b>, and the
<b>heating element</b>. Of these parts, the <b>switches</b>, and the<b>
thermostats</b> are replaceable, but the <b>heating elements </b>usually
are not. Finding the<b> replacement parts</b> can also be difficult.
Here is one website that carries many of the parts for these heaters.<br />
<p>To find out which part exactly is the
part causing your problem, you will need to follow the power through
the switch(s) and the thermostat to the heating element(s) and find
out where and if the power is being interrupted before getting to the
heating element. If the element is getting power then everything else
is working and the element is bad. If there is no power there then go
backwards till you find power and replace that part.<br />
<p>Always remember to mark any wires that
you remove very well before removing them. There are many people
looking for<b> wiring diagrams</b> because they have not remembered
where they removed the wires from.<br />
<p>Also make sure to remove power, (unplug
the cord) before removing any electrical components from the heater.
Also when checking for power with the power on, you must be very
careful to avoid a shocking experience that could result in death.
Make sure all parts are away from metal parts of the heaters also to
avoid shorting the part to the heater and blowing a breaker or
ruining the heater.<br />
<p>In many cases, the time, energy and the
<b>cost of parts</b> and shipping are not worth the <b>cost of the
heater</b> that you are trying to fix. Make sure to check all of that
out before trying to make repairs.<br />
Connect the test leads to your DMM. Insert the black lead in
the black "common" socket and push the red lead in the red socket
labeled "volts, ohms, milliamperes." Set the function switch on your DMM
to the "ohms" function.
Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the space heater's
back cover and disconnect the power cord from the switch and heating
Check the power cord for a broken wire. Touch one test probe
to first one blade, then the other blade on the plug and then touch the
other probe to the other end of the power cord. If the wire is working,
there should be an indication of 0.00 to 0.5 ohms between each blade on
the plug and a different end of the power cord. If the meter indicates
"O.L." on one or both sides of the cord, the wire is defective. Most
often, the wire will be broken right at the molded plug or inside the
plug. The easiest way to fix this problem is to replace the cord set.
Check between the two sides of the power cord for a 0.00 to
0.5 ohms reading indicating a short between the two sides of the line
cord. If the heater tripped a circuit breaker, there is a short circuit
somewhere in the heater wiring. Shorts in a power cord usually occur
inside the molded plug. The short could be inside the cord set, if it
has been pinched or cut. Fix by replacing the cord set.
Check the thermostatic switch by placing one test probe on
each of the switch terminals. Turn the switch slowly through its
complete range. The DMM should indicate a continuous 0.00 to 0.5 ohms
throughout the switch's full range of movement. An "O.L." indication
here indicates a faulty switch, and you need to replace it. The reason
that a functional switch could read 0.5 ohms and not 0.00 ohms is that
some DMMs read their internal fuse's resistance.
Check the heating element for an open circuit or short
circuit. A typical radiant heating element will have a resistance of
roughly 15 to 30 ohms. A burned out heating element will read "O.L." and
need to be replaced. A reading significantly lower than 15 ohms
indicates a shorted or partially shorted heating element, and it needs
to be replaced.
Reconnect the wires that you disconnected earlier and plug
the heater in. Check the blower motor voltage if the heating element
gets hot but the fan does not work. This is the only test that you will
have to make with the heater plugged in, so use caution here.
Set the DMM for "AC volts" and touch the test probes to the
motor leads. A reading of 115 volts here indicates a defective fan
motor, and you need to replace it.
I also have the model 5620. with the yellow caution light on. After taking the unit completely apart I found 2 thermal fuses on the bottom of the unit(appox. size of a nickel). They are located under 'U" shaped brackets which are below the medal heating element. The thermal fuses do not reset. you could test them with a drip or two of souder or wire on the top - if you ran the heater this way it would be a safety problem as the fuse would be overridden. I am throwning mine away.
It depends on what kind of heating element you are referring to. If you have a test meter it is very easy. With the meter set to resistance put a test probe at each end of the element. The reading should be very low, almost short-circuit. If you're not technically minded, your probably completely lost by now...sorry.
The only other thing you can do is take a close look at it. If it is badly discoloured or has blackened, it has probably had it.
Without knowing more about the appliance and a few more details it is difficult to give any further advice.
I have a LASKO 5565 model fan and had a similiar problem. Cleaned the whole unit, thinking it was tripping the safety breakers, and it still would turn on and off. The control console was completely unusable. So then I thought that it was maybe the squat switch located on the bottom of the unit. I quickly deduced that not to be the problem and continued following the wiring. Just above the fan there is a 1/2"X1/2" thermostat. Upon touching it I almost burned myself. For some reason the unit was grounding here and cause the thermostat to heat up and shut the unit off. I took the thermostat out of the equation and the unit works great.
CAUTION: If you pursue this action you must understand that you no longer have a thermostat and the unit is now simply just a heater. It will either be on at full blast heat or it will be off. Good luck.