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Warwick Wright Posted on Apr 10, 2018

I have fitted a new nefa valve to my hot water cylinder but water comes out the hole. It looks like it's a hole to allow atmosphere for the diaphragm. Is this because the out let pipe is above this hole.. Can I block off that hole.?

  • Warwick Wright
    Warwick Wright Apr 11, 2018

    The hole is connected to the outlet and the outlet is slightly above the hole in the valve so I put a staw in the hole to lift it above the outlet.!!? They don't say that on the box...

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 44 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 15, 2008

SOURCE: No hot water

need more info please

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Anonymous

  • 50 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 04, 2009

SOURCE: hot water coming out of overflow pipe on my vulcan everhot water

Assuming you are talking about the temperatur/pressure relief valve, it is stuck open.

1. Turn off gas or electric to water heater
2. Close water supply to water heater
3. open hot water faucet on nearest fixture to depressurize hot water system.
4. close tpr valve (you may have to push in on the center spine. It may be resistant to closing from sediment. If so, opening and closing several times may solve that issue.

Once you get the tpr valve closed, close the faucet and open the supply valve. If the tpr stays closed, go ahead and turn on the gas/electric and re-light pilot and turn on control etc.

If the TPR blows again, you will need to replace it. YOu can buy a new one at any plumbing supply store. Shut down the heater again, drain a bit of water out using the valve on the bottom of the tank. there is probably copper pipe connected to the TPR valve which you may have to cut or maybe can just unscrew. The TPR threads out of the tank, install the new valve (make sure to use pipe dope or teflon tape.

pipesster

Sean Lavelle

  • 21 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 25, 2010

SOURCE: the hot water just trickles out of the hot water

Something is blocked. Turn off water to heater disconnect outlet and attach a waterheater flex connector to tank outlet bend other end into bucket. turn on water briefly - water should blast into bucket.
If not:>>>>>>>>>> disconnect water heater inlet -you may find part of the flex washer stuck into the inlet nipple. Or dip tube may have disintegrated and be plugging outlet nipple, if you have the energy saving nipples the ball can jam debris in the nipple.
If water does blast into bucket >>>>>>>>>>>> Then the problem is farther down the line, maybe bad mixing valve. disconnect mixing valve outlet and use a garden hose to backflush through mixing valve with bucket under hot pipe disconnected from water heater. If flow through valve is restricted, replace valve.

Anonymous

  • 351 Answers
  • Posted on May 03, 2010

SOURCE: My water heater thermostat keeps on tripping

Hi .. if the thermostat is tripping and the safety valve is dripping , that would indicate that the water is being over heated , or the tank is at a low level . Check the thermostst setting, it should be about mid scale. Check the supply valve to be sure that there is a constant supply of cold water. Any thoughts?

Anonymous

  • 4 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 05, 2011

SOURCE: I have a leak coming

Very simple - call a Plumber. He will fix your plumbing problem, and any foreseen potential problems related to your water leak. He may also suggest replacing your 6 year old water heater. Of course ..... for a professional cost.
However, depending on your time, skills, proper tools, patience and luck, it's easy enough to perform yourself:
1. Switch off the water heater Breakers (220v) in your service panel.
2. Turn off the water supply to the water heater.
3. Attach a water hose to the drain faucet. ( a good time to flush sediment -calcium deposits)
4. Open a hot water faucet to vent (above the level of the water heater drain - kitchen sink)
5. Remove the suspected leak components. (a union connection is a good place to start)
6. Install New pipes -3 wrap all male threaded ends with teflon Tap. Tighten securely - using 2 wrenches.
NOTE: Before refilling - you can turn on the water heater supply valve for a few minutes, to flush out any lingering calcium debris.
7. Shut off drain valve - remove hose. Shut off venting hot water faucet.
8. Turn on water supply valve to fill water heater.
9. Open a hot water faucet to relieve air pressure while filling - preferably the bath tub faucet, it doesn't have a screen that might clog.
10. When water flows without air - shut off tub faucet.
11. Look for leaks.
12. Switch the water heater Breakers on.
Note: 50 gallons should take an hour or more to heat up. Turn on a hot water valve momentarily within this heat up time to relieve thermal expansion. ( the PT valve on your water heater will perform this task if pressures/temperature exceed new water heater tolerances - it's just a precaution to introduce these fluctuating pressures on your fragile 6 year old unit)

These are just basic instructions - assuming you fill in the common sense and work safe steps.
Good Luck - The Skill will only come after trying.

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Good description of problem.
Post same question on PRO water heater forum:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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I have an Atwood water heater G6A-7E, heater heats up but no hot water flow after 15 seconds...Flushed system with water and air, put water to it and the hot water flow stops after a few seconds....

First check that any by-pass valves are in proper position. Remember, cold water has to enter in bottom fitting at back of tank, and hot water comes out at top fitting. Thus any valves that may be there, need to be in open position, and any valve between those 2 lines will need to be closed. If all valves are in proper position and working as they should, I would suspect you have a faulty check valve between top (hot) line fitting and tank. One easy way to check that before replacing it, would be to shut incoming water source off, whether running off pump or hose attached outside. Then relieve all pressure in system by opening taps until all pressure is gone. Now, go outside and open pressure relief valve carefully ( in case it's hot ) and make sure pressure is relieved there as well. Now, carefully hold pressure relief valve open while you have someone turn water back on, and see if you get good flow from pressure relief valve. If you get good pressure coming out of there, that tells you your tank is getting full, and you have water coming in as needed, so problem has to be on hot side ( top fitting ) and/or onward from there, which would be check valve fitting at top next to check. Remove the check valve and If you don't have a new check valve to try it, just put a short galvanized 1/2" pipe nipple in there for now if needed and that should do it, just attach your fitting directly to nipple. Before you do this, make sure you have removed all aerators etc on taps that may be plugged and tested pressure that way as well just in case. I have seen all of them plug up at same time before. If you remove them and get good pressure, then problem solved.
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Only about a cup of hot water will come out, then it gets cold.

You need to check 2 things. First, go outside and carefully open pressure relief valve at top of tank,(careful in case hot water spurts out) and make sure there is water in it. Second, look at back of tank inside RV and check your by-pass valves(s) for proper positioning. Cold water enters the water heater at the bottom fitting, so that valve has to be open, as well as leaves water heater at hot fitting at top of tank (the highest fitting) so that valve as well needs to be open. Any valves that may be in between those 2 water lines need to be closed. I am assuming that the heater starts runs, shuts down etc, just not running any hot water through hot side of taps, correct?
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I have cold water coming out of my faucets but no water at all coming out of the hot side. I have an atwater.

Have you checked your by-pass valve(s) at back of water heater for proper positioning? Cold water comes in bottom fitting at back of tank, and hot comes out the top fitting. Make sure any valve at those 2 spots are open and anything in between is closed.
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My suburan hot water in my 5th wheel camper only makes warm water, never hot. what is the problem?

First, let water heater heat up until it shuts itself off. Now carefully, ( it should be hot) open pressure relief valve slightly and catch some hot water in a cup or container. Compare it to what comes out your tap, that you say is warm only. If that water from pressure relief feels hotter, then check your by-pass valves for proper operation and position on rear of water heater, as it may be in a position that is allowing cold to mix with hot, creating warm. Cold line will go direct in the bottom fitting and hot will come out top fitting, and make sure any valves in between those 2 lines are in off position. If all is well there, or water from pressure relief is only warm as tap as well, then buy a new thermostat and ECO for that particular model water heater from RV dealer/service center, and replace them. They are behind rubber cover on upper left side on water heater. When cover is off, they are held against tank by 3/8 nut. When you replace it, snug nut up good but be careful not to go too much and snap that small brass stud that nut goes on. Pay attention to position of old one, so new one goes same way.
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Hot water heater is not working correctly on electric

Check that the by-pass valve(s) on or near back of water heater are in the proper position. If your stumped on how they should be for normal operation, remember this. Cold water has to flow into bottom of tank, so that valve needs to be open straight into that fitting. Then the hot comes out the top, so that valve has to be open as well. Any valves in between those lines need to be closed, otherwise it will mix cold and hot . If still not sure, get back to me, with location of any valves there, and I'll guide you through it.
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I have replaced my electric water heater and I have checked everything I can think of and I still run out of hot water in 3 minutes. What on earth is the problem.

3 minutes?? does the water run cold then? or just warm?
Is this what the tank you replaced was doing? If so, then you may have: 1 a recirculating pump instant hot water system thats faulty and allowing cold water backflow into hot water piping. 2 A tempering valve that has stuck, allowing cold water into your hot water system.
Or maybe a broken or missing dip tube in your new heater.
If after 3 minutes the water is coming cold out leave that faucet running and go to heater and feel the hot water outlet pipe from the heater. if that pipe is hot then the heater is not the problem. If the hot pipe from the heater is cold the heater is the problem. (Make sure the cold pipe coming into the heater is connected to the Right side marked "cold" !) If there is a tempering valve by the heater: feel the output from the tempering valve, if it is cold and the pipe from the heater to the tempering valve is hot, then the tempering valve is the problem. If all these are OK somewhere in your plumbing system hot and cold may be connected possibly a faucet or showerhead that is shut off at the spout/head, but hot/cold handles are left turned on then cold water can backflow thru hot pipe.

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No central heating back boiler

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Note if no water in it DO NOT USE the back boiler
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Water Heater Replacement

1) After shutting off the water and gas or power supply to the tank, connect a hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, open the valve, and run it to a nearby drain or outdoors. Use two wrenches to unscrew the inlet and outlet fittings from the top of the tank. 2) For a gas water heater, shut off the gas inlet valve and use two wrenches to disconnect the union or flare fitting between the gas supply pipe and the inlet valve. Also remove the flue hat that expels gasses into the flue at the top of the tank. 3) After removing the old unit, set the new one in place with the controls and burner accessible. Allow at least 6 inches of clearance around its perimeter, and keep it away from flammable materials. Use a level to check it for plumb; shim the base with pieces of asphalt shingles or plastic wedges. 4) Wrap the threads of the heat trap fittings with pipe-wrap tape, and screw the fittings into the water heater (blue into the cold water inlet and red into the hotwater outlet). Be sure the arrows marked on the fittings point in the direction of water flow. 5) Install new flexible connectors on the water inlet and outlet pipes. If there is no shutoff valve on the cold water side, install one before connecting the water heater. After all connections are complete, open the shutoff valve to fill the tank. While it is filling, open several hot water faucets in the house to bleed off air in the pipes. 6) Assemble the gas pipes as shown. Spread pipe dope on the threads, and screw together the parts, tightening them with one pipe wrench on the pipe and another on the fitting. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for connecting the unit with gas supply tubing. After turning on the gas, test all connections by brushing soapy water on them and watching for bubbles.
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