Kenmore 385-1778180 How/Where to control the spring loaded pressure on the cam, so that it moves when the reverse button is pressed. Hooked rod moves, but is not engaged

it sounds like the feed dogs & the reverse button need to be
checked at a repair shop,
to see why they are not responding to each other.

Hi Dawn. Thanks for choosing Fixya! when you press and hold the reverse button it will stitch in reverse for as many stitches as you want as long as you hold it. However if you press the reverse button twice and let go, it will sew in reverse until you press it again. Is there a chance your machine works like this and you have put it in reverse? If it is a computerized machine try turning it off and back on. Joe

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

You should be able to see the model number by lifting the lid and looking to the back of the washer. It likely starts with a 110.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=21&osCsid=24ab6056160f539e3df54ad2ca6c44de


This problem points to a couple of places:

The first unfortunately is the motor. Kenmore / Whirlpool top load direct drive washers use a reversing motor.

When in agitate mode, the motor turn one way, When in spin mode it turns the other way for draining and spinning.

I'd check the following first before assuming that it's the motor though.


First, I'd pull the agitators and check for worn or damaged splines inside the agitator or on the agitator shaft.

Following is a description of how to take them out.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the agitator and shaft are OK, the problem may be in the transmission.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

I'd also look at the troubleshooting section of the manual.


Starting at page 10, you'll see a description of how the transmission changes from agitate to spin mode.

The key (and likely problem) is the "agitator spring".

The spring holds the agitate gear down so that the two sets of splines on the agitate gear are connected and the agitate rack can turn the agitators.

See the following Whirlpool parts list for a blow-up of the transmission and how the various gears and springs connect.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

See the following for how to remove the transmission and clutch.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Tearing apart the transmission is a bit messy but if the problem is the spring or agitate cams, it's a lot less expensive to fix than a $170 transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover and drain the oil.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Carefully remove the clip that holds the main Spin Gear on and remove it.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

Check the spring, Agitate Cams and the cams in the Neutral Drain Assembly.

Re-assembly is obviously the reverse of taking it apart.

In answer to your other questions:

If you're reasonably comfortable with tools you can fix it yourself.

When we had a problem with ours, we ended up spending less than $30 replacing the agitate cams, neutral drain assembly and oil instead of $170 for a transmission. It was worth fixing.

As an aside, tearing the washer apart will give you the opportunity to completely clean it.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This problem points to a couple of places:


The first unfortunately is the motor. Kenmore / Whirlpool top load direct drive washers use a reversing motor.

When in agitate mode, the motor turn one way, When in spin mode it turns the other way for draining and spinning.

I'd check the following first before assuming that it's the motor though.


First, I'd pull the agitators and check for worn or damaged splines inside the agitator or on the agitator shaft.

Following is a description of how to take them out.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the agitator and shaft are OK, the problem may be in the transmission.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

I'd also look at the troubleshooting section of the manual.


Starting at page 10, you'll see a description of how the transmission changes from agitate to spin mode.

The key (and likely problem) is the "agitator spring".

The spring holds the agitate gear down so that the two sets of splines on the agitate gear are connected and the agitate rack can turn the agitators.

See the following Whirlpool parts list for a blow-up of the transmission and how the various gears and springs connect.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

See the following for how to remove the transmission and clutch.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Tearing apart the transmission is a bit messy but if the problem is the spring or agitate cams, it's a lot less expensive to fix than a $170 transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover and drain the oil.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Carefully remove the clip that holds the main Spin Gear on and remove it.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

Check the spring, Agitate Cams and the cams in the Neutral Drain Assembly.

Re-assembly is obviously the reverse of taking it apart.

When we had a problem with ours, we ended up spending less than $30 replacing the agitate cams, neutral drain assembly and oil instead of $170 for a transmission. It was worth fixing.

As an aside, tearing the washer apart will give you the opportunity to completely clean it.

Just to make sure you know what "Fix" does in Embroidery Mode - you press it before you start your embroidery then when you press Start, the machine will baste a square or rectangle the size of your embroidery before moving back to the centre ready to start the actual embroidery. It is not used to Fix stitches in embroidery mode (like it does in regular sewing mode) and it must be used before the embroidery is begun if you want the basting. Is this problem you have? It will not do the baste stitch?

quck way to test a tie rod is to jack up the vehicle.... grab ahold of the wheel and try to move it side to side.... any play there ... it's likely a tie rod... up and down play is a ball joint

Sounds like the needle atachement is bent

On the motor is a spring loaded switch. When the motor spins fast enough, it moves and keeps the motor going. It could be stuck with lint. The spring loaded part moves parts inside where all the wires go. Look carefully, the wire locations should be marked. Don't open that part unless you're really good at putting little things back together. That part should be replaceable if it's gone bad. A little wd-40 can do a lot of wonders.

Hi,

I too just aquired a husqvarna viking 6030 that was stuck in straight-stitch reverse. No forward, no zig zag, no button hole, no cam stitches. I also suspected a broken spring, since the reverse button was slack and had no resistance. But after inspecting every moving part, I realized it was just stuck from many years of non-use. I finally got it free today! I had used some Tri-Flow oil and applied it sparingly to all moving points (but not belts or motor). I exercised all the buttons and like another poster (either here or elsewhere, not sure) I used my hair dryer to apply heat to the inside of the machine through the cam slot. After you remove the white cover on back of machine that holds the two spool spindles, you will see a formed aluminum part just behind the reverse dial that has a rounded-pointed protrusion which sort of looks like a fat flat head screwdriver. It is supposed to travel in an up-down motion when reverse button is pressed. I used a flat head driver to coax its movement, and once it began moving, I continued with heat and drops of oil. Good luck.

The reverse button is attached to link that moves a lever to make the machine sew in reverse. The lever is spring loaded so it returns to forward sewing when the button is released. Either the spring has come off or there is a bind in the lever(oil it). In order to solve the problem, the covers must be removed.