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A safety device known as a water heater expansion tank(sometimes called a thermal expansion tank) can help minimize the risk of pressure damage to the plumbing system. ... Since water expands when it is heated due to thermal expansion, the water heater creates extra water volume every time it heats water
The hot side of the faucet is most likely plugged with something that came up thru the water system. The average thankless waterheater requires at least 1/2 to 3/4 gpm flow rate for the unit to sense flow and turn on. If there is not enough flow it will not fire and heat the water. Not sure about this particular unit but a few require at least one full gallon per minute flow. So chances are that if you fix the faucet, you fix the hot water issue at the same time
you didn't specify whether it was electric or gas, so i'll assume it's gas. Clean or replace the thermocouple that the pilot light heats. Yes it could be the thermostat as well.
Tank Water Heaters need to be flushed now and gain to get rid of MINERAL buildup. At the bottom is a water valve where you can attach a hose. Run the hose out doors and then open the valve to allow the water to flow freely.
That was easy. When water heats up, especially where the elements or gas flame are close to the heater bottom area, it may crackle or pop, but that is only expansion and contraction which is normal. Just watch to see if any water drips onto the floor which is a sign that the wall has been breached and the heater needs to be replaced.
Have you checked for additional switch, perhaps on rear of water heater on side of cover that wiring goes into for element. How far have you gone with it?
Make sure switch on water heater at back where electrical wire is attached is in the on position, as well as any breaker marked for water heater. Some RV's also share a connection at a switch by counter in kitchen that only allows either microwave, or water heater, not both at same time. Possible that ECO, Thermostat assy in behind black cover on outside may be faulty, but not very likely. If you verify that there is hydro to connection at back of tank, I would suspect element is faulty. Not uncommon to burn element out if it was on, before tank was full of water, or when tank was emptied for some reason.
How big is your bathtub? Is your water heater set on the hottest setting? What is the temperature of the hot water at the tap?
Keep in mind that hot water can cause severe burns. Children and those with diminished mental capacity can be seriously harmed by hot water.
The "40 Gallon" rating on the water heater is usually the amount of hot water the unit can produce in one hour. So the tank, and the amount of immediately available hot water, might be smaller than 40 gallons.
My bathtub is 2 feet wide by 1 foot deep and 4 feet long. This is 8
cubic feet or almost 60 gallons. So a 40 gallons of water at 120 degrees, mixed
with 20 gallons of cold water (60 degrees), fills the tub with 100 degree
water. My January cold water is 42 degrees, so it will take 40 gallons at 129 degrees to fill the tub. If the tub is cold to start it will take even hotter water.
So the water heater might be just fine.
Possible solutions: 1. turn the temperature up on your water heater- or the temperature control could be malfunctioning and not getting the water hot enough. 2. insulate your hot water pipes so that the water loses less heat on the way to the tub. 3. bigger water heater. 4. smaller bathtub, or less full bathtub.
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