My cucuit braker trips when I turn the spinner timer switch please insert schematic drawing please.

Hello....Most likely, the main control board is shorted out. Have you had any power outages or brown-outs in the last 4-6 weeks? Power issues such as surges absolutely can wreak havoc on the electronic controls of household appliances! I hope I helped you!

65 AMPS? That's drawing a LOT of power.
Is it tripping the breaker even before you pull the trigger?
If yes, I would use a continuity meter to start checking the various components. In particular, see if the switch is stuck in the ON position.
Unless you are experienced in tracking and performing electrical maintenance problem solving, this may be a situation best left to a repair shop.
Cheers

prob earth leakage on motor or pump

You might want to check your rollout switch on the burners it may be kicked.It will have a small red button on it .Push it in to reset

check to see if voltage to the motor if so bad motor if no voltage check switch or relays

Intermatic C8865 timer is a 5-hour cycle timer that repeats same cycle each 5 hour period.
This timer has 120Volt clock motor and is 120V timer.
Timer has NO and NC terminals.
NO terminal turns ON when timer turns ON
NC terminals is ON all the time, except when timer turns ON. At this point NC terminal turns OFF.

You have 3 things: 120V timer, 120V honeywell transformer, 120V stoker motor/fan
The transformer needs to be ON at all times.
The stoker motor is going to turn ON when the cycle timer turns ON.

You have 120V cable with black wire, white wire (and bare ground, which connects to green ground screw and to other bare grounds and won't be discussed further)

Black wire is hot
White wire is neutral

Black wire connects to 'Switch common terminal' on timer.
Same wire also connects to black wire on Honeywell transformer.

White wire connects to 'Clock terminal' on timer
Same wire connects to white wire on Honeywell transformer and to white wire on Stoker motor.
So all the white wires are connected together.

Last wire is black wire to stoker motor.
This wire connects to NO terminals on timer.

Here is drawing.
Add a comment any time

You don't have a "breaker box" on your Softail. You do have a main breaker that is rated at 30 amps. Then you have three or four more that are usually rated between 10 and 15 amps. A circuit breaker is a thermo-electrical device. If more current flows through the device than it is rated to handle, it will heat a bi-metal strip that will cause the breaker to "break". Once it "breaks", the current flow stops, the strip cools off, and the breaker resets. If the ignition switch is still on and the current draw still exceeds the breaker's rating, it will trip again. It will continue to do this until the switch is turned off or the reason for the excessive current draw remedied. If the breaker is tripped too many times, it will quit working. It is designed to protect a circuit and continously break and reset like a turn signal flasher.

Good Luck
Steve

replace the timer.

It is failed.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Replace the switch, or the whole control/timer assembly.

If it keeps giving you troubles after replacement, you will need to check the electronic control module (small box) inside the appliance.

Insert model number here to get schematics and replacement parts.

COLINSPARK; The timer is the connected to the back of the control dial. (the door) If nothing is working, Don't forget about the door switch, If you had a short that tripped the breaker, I bet its there somewhere. The float switch is underneath. remove the front panel under the door, the float switch is activated by that little bulb inside the machine. If you lift the bulb up and down, you should be able to hear the switch clicking. If its clicking and has power going into and out of it (when its down down) its not the float switch. I bet the schematic is on the backside of the panel underneath the door.

RKIRK2K;.. This irregular problem does, unfortunately point to the timer/selector control. Before you commit to this expensive part. Check the door switch, it can make the same symptoms. Remove the panel on the door, find the little switch and by-pass the wires going to it by connecting them together. This this is a part that is usually $100 less than the timer. The resistance on the timer control can vary depending on what its set. But it is very refreshing having someone who can actually read one. If they have one I'm happy.