How do I repair a Dicapac Under water casing for DSLR. The slot for the shutter finger detached. (It was not torn or ripped out)

Repairing a loudspeaker's torn paper cone can be cheap and effective. You'll need some water-soluble glue and a paper tissue. Some people use part of a paper coffee filter. Others prefer a paper towel.

First experiment with a small strip of thin tissue paper. Apply some glue, diluted with a little water so that it soaks into the tissue easily, and leave it to dry. The glued strip will now be stiffer, but it needs to be flexible, not brittle. If necessary, try making the glue more dilute, or try other glues if the first type seems unsuitable.

Carefully smooth out any distortions in the damaged cone with your fingers. Tear out a piece of thin paper tissue to cover the tear in the cone. Then thoroughly soak the tissue with dilute glue and apply it over the tear and smooth it down using a small smooth spoon. The torn edges of the tissue should ensure that there is no sudden change in thickness of the repaired cone. Leave to dry for 24 hours.

For a relatively powerful speaker such as this one, the repair process should be repeated on the other side of the cone for added strength. For cosmetic purposes, the repair can be disguised using a very light spray of matt black paint.

I suggest you to bring the unit to nearest appliance repair shop

Turn the laptop over and remove the battery pack.

From the bottom of the laptop, unscrew the plastic shells securing the slots for memory,

Bluetooth, hard drive and modem.

You may have to remove more than one screw for each shell. Keep all screws in a small container, away from the work area.

Remove the memory (RAM) modules, the hard drive and any optical drives (CD-ROM or DVD-ROM).

Press the clips on either end of the memory slot to raise the RAM module and detach by pulling it out. Work slowly and carefully, to prevent damage to RAM modules or the memory slot.

Do the same for all modules, if you have more than one.

Slide out the hard drive and optical drive. If the drives seem to be stuck, look for any screws you may have missed.

Turn the laptop over and insert a pointy tool under the thin strip at the top of the keyboard. Use the tool as a lever to pry the securing strip loose, while working with your finger to release latches along the length of the strip.

Remove the keyboard by undoing two screws securing it.

Raise the keyboard and disconnect its cables.

Close the laptop lid and turn it around, so that you are facing ports on the back.

Remove two screws from the metal plate around the ports.

Open the lid and remove a single screw securing the wireless card cover; the screw is under the keyboard, which you already removed.

Disconnect cables from the motherboard.

Access the board through the space created by removing the keyboard. Unplug the speaker cable from the motherboard by carefully pulling at its head.

Unscrew and remove Wi-Fi antennas, and detach the wireless card from the motherboard. Unplug thin, ribbon-like cables from the video card.

Detach the display assembly from the base of the laptop.

Loosen any attachments, and pull the casing toward you to detach the display assembly, including the LCD panel, from the base.

With the motherboard completely exposed, unscrew and remove the video card.

Undo two screws from either side of the hard drive housing and detach the drive.

Dismount the CPU heat sink and detach the fan cable from the motherboard by removing five screws.

You can now access the battery board with the CMOS battery attached to it.

Undo two screws to detach the battery board from the motherboard.

Disconnect two cables running from the battery board, and carefully raise the board to detach it.

Replace the CMOS battery by prying it open with a pointy tool. Insert a new battery and reassemble the laptop.

hope this helps

On page 256 of the D-90 user manual it says that an ERR message indicates a camera malfunction and that the malfunction can be cleared by releasing the shutter. I found that the only way I could release the shutter is to turn the camera off and back on. On rare occasions, I have needed to remove and reinstall the battery.

The manual says that if this problem persists or occurs frequently you should contact a Nikon authorized repair center for instructions. I recommend that you contact Nikon tech support at www.nikon.com before you send your camera for repair just in case they may have a solution that won't cost you any money for repairs. If the camera is still under warranty, I would definitely contact Nikon tech support to see what they have to say.

sounds like the shutter chain is slipping, or shutter is sticking, this does not look good. you may need to have the body replaced, usually camera shops will tell you that the repair costs more than the replacement.

i would take to a sony dealer for further advice, I assume you are still under garantee you should be ok. as this model only came onto the market last august. and usually has 24 months cover on parts.

I hope this was useful.

To take the kind of pic you want, you need a camera with manual control like a DSLR. You need to set the ISO to 100 and the aperture to f16 or f22 so that the shutter slows down to at least 1/4 second.

I used a mirror to find out how the ice separator finger assembly should be attached. I then removed two cubes that had caused the jam and then inserted a tab on the right end of the white plastic ice separator finger into a slot in the ice forming and cooling block.

Case closed.

I'm not sure if it is exactly the same problem or not. In my case the glass detached/unglued, on both sides, from the strip that is sewn to the top. I used Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive and Sealant made by ProSeal and purchased at Harbor Freight.

Be careful not use acrylics . Even though they will water proof, they become brittle with temperature changes. You want and adhesive that remains flexible.

Good luck.

Think you might want to try it yourself? Google the words...disassemble a digital camera.

try a higher water level