To get to the thermostat you need to remove air cleaner box assembly from the throttle body and move it out of the way. Next, remove the nut at the throttle body that holds the steel tube that goes to the heater hose, remove all hoses that connect to this tube and raise it out of the way. Remove the steel line that goes to the radiator surge tank from the thermostat housing. Now the fun part. With a 13MM box end wrench, loosen the lower bolt from the thermostat housing. A 13 mm socket will remove the top bolt. Remove the thermostat cover and remove the thermostat. Reverse to install.Having problem it will not post. but try this.
SOURCE: I am trying to drain my electric water heater:
Hi Karen, think of the water heater as a straw....if the straw has liquid in it and you put your finger on the top, the liquid doesn't come out. If you open up the relief valve, air will allow it to flow freely. The relief valve has a metal lever on it, usually on the top of the water heater (if electric).
SOURCE: I have dismantled a modern AHead set in order to
With a taller stack of spacers you would probably need a LONGER center screw to reach the 'Star-Fangled Nut' that should still be lodged inside the steerer tube.
* The SFN is designed to resist being pulled UP in the steerer, but can be pushed down.
If you CAN reach the nut with the screw you have but it doesn't start threading it could be that the nut has shifted so it's not aligned concentrically with the steerer. You might be able to reach down in there with something long and thin and re-align it. If it's a lost cause it can be pounded down out of the way with a mallet and a screw driver. Then get a new one and start over.
Keep in mind that the screw in question is NOT for tightening the stem down on the bearings. It is to make the proper adjustment of 'tight enough without wobble or bearing bind'. Then you tighten the screws on the side of the stem to maintain that adjustment.
SOURCE: Have an Atwood LP water heater. When I light the
Yes, a good place to start would be to run a burner brush through entire tube to make sure all spider webs are out, then blow through again. If that doesn't cure it, double check your position of burner tube in chamber. Sometimes if it's moved into chamber too far, it will tend to back-up flame in to tube. I've had some that I re-installed and was sure I put it back exactly where it was before, but had to pull burner tube back approx 1/8"-3/16" to get a proper flame. Make sure it's centered in chamber as well.
SOURCE: bernzomatic patio heater will not light?
these had problems with purging air out of the system.that may take a while and make sure you have spark.
SOURCE: Trying to replace the alternator from a 2005 Chevy Silverado -2500.
You've disconnected the serpentine belt? It SHOULD come out now - you've done everything necessary. You may have to pry it out with a large screwdriver or a small pry bar. It may be challenging getting the new one in, but with the old one out you may be able to spot something else that needed to be adjusted a little for a better fit.
Oh, wait. On SOME Delco alternators, there's a third bolt on the rear of the case where a brace can be bolted to it. Check that.
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