Model PH3250N, plenty of gas in tank, blew out fittings, hoses with compressed air to remove possible spider webs. The connector to the tank leaks a bit, but teflon tape solved that problem. Not sure why it won't light? I changed batteries and hear the clicking but no ignition. It has been sitting outside, covered for past year. Worked great last year, but not this one.
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If it were the check valve, (safety release valve), you would hear the air escaping from the safety release valve. You have an air leak somewhere. A small leak in the system will keep the compressor from building pressure. If you turn the compressor on and feel around the ends of the tube that leads from the compressor cylinder head to the tank (be careful... it will be HOT) you may feel air escaping from the tube connector at the tank or the connector at the compressor cylinder head. If that is the case, tighten the connectors at the compressor head and the tank. If the connectors still leak, you will need to remove the tube and replace the packings (gaskets) at each end of the tube. Also check all of the hose connectors for leaks, and check the hose for damage that may cause an air leak. If you remove the air hose from the compressor and run the compressor you will be able to tell if your problem is in the hose or hose connectors or the compressor-to-head air tube.
Use compression barb fittings on the pressure side with fuel injection line NOT REGULAR FUEL HOSE THE REGULAR HOSE WONT HOLD UP TO THE PRESSURE. The return line can be regular fuel line because of the low pressure.
G'day. You have a leaking check valve.This is the valve that is inserted between the compressor pump discharge pipe & the tank.DO NOT try to remove this valve with pressure in the tank.DRAIN ALL AIR FIRST. Some rightangle check valves have a removable hex nut with a valve behind which can be replaced seperatly(in stead of a new check valve assembly). Just to clarify-the check valve is at the tank end of the little hose that the air is leaking from. WARNING-DO NOT REMOVE ANY FITTINGS WITH AIR IN TANK .Hope this was helpfull Regards Andrew Porrelli
this could have to do with the main gas feeds to the ceramic panels . they might be obstructed with a spider web or dirt,foriegn material etc. easiest fix is to take a air compresser with a blow gun tip and blow out ant foriegn material or spider webs from the gas feed pipes to the ceramic burners. the gas feed pipes have large air induction holes that a small blow gun can fit its nozzle into to blow out the gas feed pipes without having to disassemble them. that is a big time & work saver. I took my gas feed lines to the ceramic burners all apart, only to get out a spider web that i could have blown out with compressed air and saved myself 2 hours work.
anything inside the gas feed pipes to the ceramic burners will result in dark spots or the panels not staying lite, irratic burning or no burning at all. the gas needs to be able to get through unimpeded at proper flow and proper pressure for proper burning. a spider web will mess up proper gas flow. some gas, but not enough gas will get through and ceramic wont burn well and might not hold a flame.
clean out the foriegn material from the ceramic gas feed lines.
Rare posibility,if the gas behind the ceramic element escapes around the edges of the ceramic, through a bad seal of the gasket, this also will stop the ceramic from burning well.
mr heater is not made for easy diaassembly so try not to do more work than you have to.
use compressed air rather than taking mr heater all apart to clean out a gas feed pipe.
Usually related to the in-tank check valve. Follow the discharge hose from the pump to the tank. At the tank the hose attaches to a brass valve (or metal valve). This brass fitting is the check valve. It's purpose is to hold air in the tank and not allow the air to load the compressor when motor is trying to start. Easy to test. Use another compressor to pump air into your tank thru the quick disconnect or remove the safety valve and install hose there. Pump in about 75 psi and looks for leaks with soapy water. Remove air inlet hose from check valve and check for air leaks. If leaking, replace with generic valve available at www.grainger.com or order from sears parts. If no leaks then suspect unloader is not working at the pressure switch. If both the unloader and check valve is ok then test capacitor for reading within 95% of rated valve. Good holidays
There is either an obstruction in the gas pipes like a spider web or something or your valve is not opening up all the way. It also could be a bad attachment fitting or not seated properly. I hope this helps.
With just the little info that you gave, I cant be sure, but as this is an outside heater, it may be possible that like a spider or wasp has crawled inside and did something that plugged the orifice or gas/air injector to the burners. A blow out with an air compressor may solve the problem, unless its way inside, then you may need to take it apart. Just recently I removed a wasp nest from a burner injector on a central package unit that had a larger diameter than a CD!!