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Look at your pressure gauge. If it is reading high, you have a clogged filter. Open filter and clean out or replace sand.
If it is reading low, you have a pump/ suction issue. Check the o-ring on the pump basket lid and make sure it is lubed and has no cracks. Check your basket for cracks. The pump impeller could be clogged. The pump may be pulling air in through a suction fitting or a small crack.
3 lights usually means you have an issue with the flow sensors.
Can't remember exactly, but there's two issues: pump is on and sensor not reading flow or not enough flow to register. Normal reason for this is to check
Not enough water in tub
Falling / failed flow sensor
Or... Sensing flow, but pump is NOT on, so there's no way for the sensor to be reading flow!
On page 41 of the manual, a no-display indication can be related to a loose ribbon cable (check the cable is fully inserted into the connector), or a loose or bad connection at the white connector between the transformer and the PC board ("Check connector at white plug to insure proper connection. If burnt connector contact authorized service representative.")
As you operated the pool during the winter, did you remove the sensor and replace it with an optional spool piece, or did you leave the sensor in operation and perhaps subject it to freezing? The sensor can be permanently damaged if it was subjected to freezing.
Try removing the cell and cleaning it.
First I would go through and check all of the connections. If they are OK, and as this occurs after you make the connection to the electrode, I can't help to wonder if the electrode is clogged or damaged beyond repair.
The correct method for winterizing is section 6.5, on page 40, of your manual.
Typically, the cracking of internal filter tank components is due to freezing temperatures over the Winter season. You should always COMPLETELY drain all water from your filter and store it inside during the winter.
Another reason is over chlorination of your pool water and/or adding chemicals directly to your water thru the wall skimmer.
Either the temperature blending door is stuck, the temperature control cable came loose from an anchor at the endof the cable jacket, or there is an air bubble in the heater core or heater core is clogged. Is the coolant mix adequate for your climate?
with the engine warm and running, are both heater hoses warm? If not, there is no flow. In one extreme case with one of my own vehicles I installed items that are called flushing tees in both hoses to purge the air out. Matk one hose on both side of the cut to distinguish it from the other, and check the ability of the heater core to allow coolant to glow through it. If you are above freezing, water from a garden hose is fine at low pressure. Otherwise you need to use regulated compressed air. If no flow- the problem was a clogged heater core replace core.
If heater core had decent flow thtough it, install one flushing tee per side- ideally in the middle of the hose so each can be held up to collect air from the bubble. With engine cold, start the engine with both tees capped. The one hose that leads off the water pump- crack open first tee until coolant flows. snug cap reasonably tightly. Then crack open the other tee, hold it as high as the hose will allow until coolant begins to flow. then snug cap.
At this point you should have heat if the control cables were all anchored, and doors/actuators opened and closed them correctly.
turn off the power to the spa. remove the cabinet under the topside remote to expose the equipment compartment. You should see the flow switch, it's usually a threaded 3/4" plug with a single grey wire coming out of it. Most of them are threaded into a tee or a special transparent fitting. If the water level in the spa is above the flow switch, you may have to drain the spa down unless you're very fast about getting the new switch in. Unthread the old switch and thread the new one in. Follow the wire on the old one to the spa pack. You'll have to remove the screws on the cover to expose the circuit board. Follow that wire into the spa pack to see where on the circuit board that it is plugged in. It may be good to run the new wire to have in place as soon as you unplug the old one you can install the new one with no question as to where it plugs in.
Reinstall the cover on the spa-pack and turn the main power back on. Make sure that the arrows on the new flow switch are facing the correct direction (direction of flow). Once you have the spa on and it starts back up, run everything to check for leaks and proper operation. If the flow switch was the only problem, all your faults should be cleared and you should be in good shape. If there are no leaks, you can reinstall the cabinet panel.
The new switch should already have teflon tape on the threads, if not, use teflon tape, apply the tape in the direction as if you were threading a nut onto the threads. You only need a few wraps of teflon tape, too much can crack the fitting you threat the new flow switch in to.
Replacing the entire pump for a broken / leaky seal is a bit overkill - kinda like being advised to replace an engine when its your oil filter seal leaking. Poolcenter.com sells a Polaris "Go Kit" consisting of the three primary o-rings/seals that need periodic replacement as they dry-out and crack, promoting leaks, during non-operating months. Its called the Go-Kit 71 (for about $15.00) plus shipping. Replacement is fairly straight-forward if you know how to disassemble the pump - not rocket science but definately engineering.