Where is fuse in the black box that connects to your + battery terminal in 2001 Audi 1.8t?

There may come a time when you try to start your vehicle...and nothing happens. In those situations, a dead or discharged battery is often the culprit.
There are a couple of ways to check: If the starter clicks or makes no sound, and the headlights are dim or don't turn on at all, chances are it's the battery.
Thankfully, jump-starting a vehicle is easy. All it takes is a set of jumper cables and another running vehicle, and you'll be on your way.
Before you start
There are a few things you should do before starting step 1:

• Read the safety, jump-starting, and roadside emergency information in your owner's manual
• Have your roadside assistance number handy

Locate a pair of color-coded jumper cables and a wire brush for removing battery terminal corrosion

Find each vehicle's battery: They can be under the hood or in the trunk

Remove any metal jewelry like rings or bracelets to avoid accidental shocks while working near the battery

Don't disconnect the disabled battery-it could damage the vehicle's electrical system

1. Move the boosting vehicle close to, but not touching, the vehicle with the dead battery so the jumper cables can connect without being taut. Put both vehicles in Park or Neutral, turn off their ignitions, and set their parking brakes. Turn off or unplug all power-draining items: lights, electronic accessories, and portable devices plugged into auxiliary outlets.
2. Open the hood or trunk and remove any battery terminal covers. If you see chalky corrosion on the terminals, remove it with a wire brush terminal cleaner.
3. Clamp the red positive (+) cable onto the disabled vehicle's red positive (+) battery terminal.
4. Next, connect the other end of the red positive (+) cable to the booster vehicle's red positive (+) battery terminal.
5. Now connect the black negative (-) clamp to the booster vehicle's black negative (-) battery terminal.
6. Connect the other end of the black negative (-) cable to a large, unpainted metal surface in the disabled vehicle's engine bay, away from the battery and the engine itself. Make sure the cables are clear of any moving parts.
7. After a final check, start the booster vehicle. Then try to start the disabled vehicle: Usually it will start right up, but it may need to charge for a few minutes before starting. Once it starts, allow both vehicles to run connected for about three minutes.
8. Without turning off the jump-started vehicle's engine, disconnect the cables in the reverse order that they were attached, and close the hoods/trunks.
9. Allow the jump-started vehicle's engine to run for several minutes. Depending on how discharged it is, the battery may not be able to start again under its own power, so keep it running until you reach your destination.
10. Visit your local Ford Dealership as soon as possible to get the jump-started battery tested or replaced.

I assume not cranking? Or cranking, but not starting?
No other work done while battery disconnected?

try to disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes. hook it back up and make sure you have the positive and negative wires on the right terminal. wrong way can short and burn your entire electrical harness. Check the fuses.

post to a Audi forum, this is rice burning honda.
like apples and oranges different.

needs initializing code reset

new battery needs

I had a similar problem, it drove me mad, but i found it to be the fuse in the black box that connects to your + battery terminal, Just open up the box & check 4 a break in the metal strip. You can always disconnect the fuse & bolt lead on to end of fuse terminal (remove the fuse box) & drive your car to see if it happens again.

Disconnect the positive clamp on your battery but take care not to touch the body metal with the wrench when doing this.

Now connect an small light between the + terminal and the clamp. Put the clamp on a rag so it can't touch the sheet metal. If any drain is present the light will glow. Or you can check the amount of drain with an small ammeter. An drain of 1-2 Watts can be tolerated. Next pull the fuse for the mechanic clock and the radio. Still any current flowing (light on)?
Ok, so you really have a problem. Now start pulling the fuses in the fuse box one by one until the light goes off. This is the circuit in which the problem lies. Check your manual or the indications in the cover of the fuse box to see which systems are connected to that fuse.
The next steps depend on the systems concerned. Try disconnecting each one of the parts connected in the circuit. Again it's the same - when the light goes out you've found the problem.
Even better than a light bulb is an buzzer. Many people have one of those annoying little rascals lying around. Use it. good-day !

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