Heat in front wheel when driving

The below is from wikipedia...there may be an imbalance in how the power is being applied. Is the wheel alignment correct? Is the drivetrain all fully intact?Is the suspension functioning correctly, i.e. are shocks, springs all functioning to original spec. It may be a combination of several things, I would check on alignment and suspension. Tyre wear might give an indication of what is going on. I appreciate there are no obvious signs,
Have you been using the vehicle off road for an extended period of time recently, i.e. befor the problem arose? Sorry I can only make suggestions, question what it might be, without vehicle to hand diagnosis is difficult. Please eloborate, add more detail and repost the query, thanks.



Torque steer is the unintended influence of engine torque on the steering, especially in front-wheel drive vehicles. For example, during heavy acceleration the steering may pull to one side, which may be disturbing to the driver. The effect is manifested either as a tugging sensation in the steering wheel, or a veering of the vehicle from the intended path. Torque steer is directly related to differences in the forces in the contact patches of the left and right drive wheels. The effect becomes more evident when high torques are applied to the drive wheels either because of a high overall reduction ratio between the engine and wheels, high engine torque, or some combination of the two. Torque steer is distinct from steering kickback.

Make sure the steering wheel is not close to one of the "steering wheel position lock stops" before turning the key.

There is some castor in the suspension. (all this means is that the wheels will try to return to straight ahead when the steering wheel is released. It has to do with weight of the vehicle and suspension geometry).

There are locking points in the steering system so that if someone hot wires your car they will only be able to drive around in circles. How far will they get?

Your key may be getting stuck in between the return tendency of the castor and the locking notch or dog or whatever.

Turn the wheel to lift up the front of the car slightly (that means more toward not straight ahead. It may help to think of the steering wheel as a jack for the front end of the car).

Once you lift the car off the key it should turn and come out easily

could be a differential problem, or half shaft broken where power is only going ot one wheel. when the car accelerates the wheel with power can cause the vehicle to jerk. could also be a wheel problem. ensure the tyres are inflated correctly. is the steering wheel straight or turned to one side when driving in a straight line. if turned there may be damage to the steering system. did the symptom start after another person has driven the vehicle? or after an accident or driving into a curb or off road? all these may be factors to the problem. if not the case try rotating the wheels front left to rear right and front right to rear left to see if the problem disapears. if persists seek professional to test drive the vehicle and give an appraisal to the cause.

I hope this was helpful.

If you hear a clacking sound esp. while turning. Sound like your CV joints (constant velocity) or Front Wheel Drive axle.

You need wheel bearings.. One for sure maybe 2. Do you feel it in the steering wheel or floor? The floor usually means rear and the steering wheel usually means front. Hope this helps. It should change pitch when you drive left to right at a steady speed. :-) Cobra

sounds like the right wheel bearing causewhen you turn left you put the weight on the right

it sounds like your hubs are going bad. when you disengage your 4x4 try backing up a few feet. this might help them release

You didn't specify if your vehicle is 2- or 4-wheel drive. If 4 wheel, you may have a failing contstant velocity joint which, when having developed worn spots in the cage can cause the noise you describe.
Typically, turning the wheel back and forth can cause the noise to become less or more loud and often the combination of a specific speed and driving a certain curve radius can cause the noise to nearly disappear or become more pronounced.

RAVE says the following:
1) Release ABS Sensor harness grommet from inner wing valance and disconnect multi plug.
2) Raise front of vehicle.
3) Remove road wheel.
4) Pull ABS Sensor harness through aperture into wheel arch.
5) Release harness from brackets on inner wing valance, suspension turret and front hub.
6) Release stake from drive shaft nut
7) Remove drive shaft nut with assistance & discard.
8) Remove front brake disk (Remove calliper, pad holder, screw and tap to remove)
9) Remove 4 bolts securing wheel hub to steering knuckle.
10) Release wheel hub from steering knuckle then remove wheel hub and drive shaft assembly from axle. DO NOT REMOVE ABS SENSOR FROM HUB. HUB AND SENSOR ARE SUPPLIED AS AN ASSEMBLY.
11) Position the wheel hub and drive shaft on a press, place supports beneath the wheel studs and press the drive shaft from the wheel hub.
12) Remove drive shaft oil seal from axle casing.

Refit is mostly the reverse, you need to take care to lubricate things in the right places and put loctite on the drive shaft and locate the loom and torque everything right.

Hi

Expect Kwik Fit have adjusted the tracking / wheel alignment at some time, and adjusted one track rod more than the other. ?

Count the threads showing ! ...I expect this will become apparent.

You need to have the tracking / alignment rechecked with track rods even lengths both sides.

Then if you road test and find the steering wheel out of alignment, remove steering wheel, and move round the correct position on the steering column splines.

Hope this is of help.

Good Luck !

John.