Amana ARSE66MBW not going into defrost cycle. I'm

Because the defrost control is electronic and part of the temperature controls inside the fresh food compartment it is very likely your=> 12002445 Main Control Board


is the reason for the long defrost. If you have questions please ask, Thanks Sea Breeze

ASD2626HEB Parts Manual

You didnt give the make of the ref.; But your solution is here for most all

The newest defrost feature in modern fridges is the electronic adaptive defrost control board. *Maytag has one version, see picture...to put this adaptive defrost style of fridge into defrost, short with a small screwdriver between L1 and test on the adaptive defrost board, wait 3 seconds and you should hear a "click" noise from the relay and the fridge will shut off and go through a defrost cycle. A close up common way *this* version of the Maytag/JennAir control is wired.
Amana also has a version of adaptive defrost, see info sheet for some help on the Amana version. Press refrigerator light switch five times in six seconds to initiate defrost cycle. Pressing five more times within six seconds will cancel defrost and go straight into the run mode. Similar operation on both bottom mount and SxS refrigerators. After the defrost terminator/thermostat opens, six minutes of dwell time occurs before the compressor and condenser fan motor will operate. After defrost terminator/thermostat open, 10 minutes of dwell time occurs before the evaporator fan motor will operate.
Frigidaire has also jumped into the market with an adaptive defrost board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A ?¿½d?¿½ in the freezer temperature window and ?¿½F?¿½ in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. ?¿½d?¿½ and ?¿½F?¿½ will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
For some Whirlpool refrigerators - some Kenmore refrigerators are made by Whirlpool ( 106.######## )
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
?¿½ If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
?¿½ If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Maytag S-S Refrigerator MSD2756GEW forcing defrost cycle
I replaced my defrost heater two weeks ago, but the frost built back up on the evaporator coils. Replaced the adaptive defrost board with new ( Maytag p/n 6100598 8 ) board. Want to force a defrost cycle to see the heater work, so I shorted the L1 pin to adjacent pin (now called DOOR instead of TEST) for three seconds and nothing happens. Compressor keeps running, fans still going etc. Tried pressing the door switches 5 times in 6 seconds and that doesn't work either. Any hints on how to get the defrost cycle to initiate?
Hi,
This might help, a copy:
The issue is that some 12002104 ADC boards have been shipped in the 61005988 ADC board box. Do not reorder the board, the 12002104 board will function the same in place of the 61005988, but you must use the forced defrost method for the 12002104. Jumping "L-1" and "door" will not initiate the forced defrost function.
To Initiate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Cycle cold control on and off three times in six seconds. The cold control needs to be left in the closed (call for cooling) position for the defrost system to energize on all platforms. It is not enough to cycle the cold control knob, the contacts must actually open and close (open doors for a period of time if necessary to force the control to call for cooling). In most cases, you can hear the contacts open and close if they are doing so.
To Terminate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Disconnect power for five seconds.
You were right. I cycled the cooling controls three times and it went into a defrost cycle. Thanks.

Hello,


It sounds like you have more than the problem of the defrost cycle not keeping up with frost buildup.

The usual cause of excessive frost is that the freezer door is not fully closed, OR the gasket is not fitted properly, OR the gasket is worn. IF this is the problem, then when it is corrected, the normal defrost cycle timing will keep up.

Depending on the fridge, there may be a small timer for the defrost cycle, and it looks like the small, round timer motor in a dishwasher, clothes washer, and is usually located in the bottom section where the compressor is located. Often it's near the front, and if the grating at the lower front of the fridge is removed you can find it.

The timer [if your fridge uses this type, versus some solid state timing device built into a circuit board] will usually have a small plastic "shaft" / knob sticking out of the center. Rotating this shaft clockwise should advance the time when the defrost cycle begins.

IT DOES NOT, REPEAT DOES NOT, shorten the time BETWEEN cycles, only ADVANCES the "clock." You will have to readjust each time you want to accelerate the defrost start.

Good luck and hope this helpout.....

Relax, some people exagerate was all I was saying.
Anyhow, go to a good parts store and ask for a Supco EDT (Electronic Defrost Timer) replacement as they are more reliable and not much difference in price.

With the door being open so long all the excess moisture iced up the evaporator coil behind the rear panel inside the freezer blocking the air flow. When it automatically goes through a defrost cycle the ice will be melted. If you cant wait you can defrost it with a hairdryer if you remove the rear panel. It should defrost again in a day or two on it's own according to what type of timer you have. With the electronic models you can force a defrost. Look in the manual to see how to to this.

http://shop.amana.com/product_literature/search.jsp?siteCd=AMA
try this web site and fill in your model number. See if this will get you your manual on your unit.
Hope this gets it for you.

Here is the Amana website with the manuals which should show you where the defrost timer etc. is located. Witht your model number and manual it will be a lot easer

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search.jsp?siteCd=AMA

And yes the defrost timer thermostat and heater are the most likely problem.

Do not let this keep running and running or you may lose your compressor too which means a lot more expense than now.

the compressor sounds its shorting out

if all that is ok then you need to check the heater and bi-metal / if it starts frosting up you loose air into the refrig side and the freezer will start going down too / frig side gets tem from freezer ,,,,, i bet you have a bad defrost heater / larry