My chlorinator o ring is stretched out and I need a temporary fix until stores open...will Saran wrap work

On an Omega ODW600S I had a leak, and found it was the o-ring seal that wraps around the impeller shaft that sits within the heater assembly "sump". Part 611 in the exploded diagram to be found on some sites.

Tech support was useless, don't bother with them. If in Australia, the parts can be ordered from Bunnings. However, I didn't need to. I fixed it rapidly, easily and cheaply by layering a coat of sealing silicon all over the o-ring from the inside, making sure to allow enough room to re-insert the small spring type full circlip, that wraps around a tiny rubber extension collar of the o-ring so the o-ring grabs onto the shaft a bit tighter.

You can open up the heater manifold with just a twist and a couple of small pieces of something solid to wedge open the catching clips. The large o-ring between halves of the "sphere" may likely be stretched. Before re-assembly, do a dry run to ensure you know where it rotates back on. Thoroughly clean the area where the gasket has to go, and the o-ring gasket. Insert the gasket where in place--it may be fiddly depending on how stretched/swollen it is. Then use a little light grease on both the outer surface of the o-ring and the male/mating surface of the sump as it enters the heater body. Twist gently and line up square as you insert the parts back together so as to not push that gasket out. And voila!

There is no effective long term way to store tubes of silicon. Even unopened tubes have a finite shelf life. I have found the most effective way to store opened tubes for medium lenght time, is to allow a bit of excess to flow over the tip, and allow it to form a plug. In a few months, this plug may extend the full length of the nozzle, but you can push this out with a piece of steel rod (from the tip end). I keep my tubes of silicone and caulking in a cool dry place. I've never tried the bucket of water method, so I don't know how successful that would be.

Yes, the o-ring does swell up. I am not really sure what causes that, but the only fix is to replace it. It goes inside the cap. Only use teflon or silicone based lube on it.

your are fine to put a wooded shelf in,best to cover in saran wrap or aluminum foil though

I would think a good parts store could help you, even if it's a temporary replacement or fix, till you get the dealer's pipe. What hose is it? A big radiator hose, heater hose, or metal pipe with o-rings? I still say a temporary fix should work for awhile.

Wow what a tough question! This is a real head scratcher.
Using a dye test solution or some of your pH indicator test reagent, drop near it with pump shut off and water still. See if the dye is sucked into the crack, gap or tear.

Take a 12 X 12 piece of plastic wrap, wet the pool ring, slide the plastic sheet along until you see the air bubble appear, mark leak with marker pen. Use repair patch. I swear this is better than soapy water!

Remove the harddrive, remove game discs, turn XBOX on, remove anything external (ie internet, fans) wrap in 2 or 3 large bath towels and completely incase the console. Make sure no gaps or air can find it's way to the XBOX.

This is a temporary fix, it may work for a few hours to a few days. If you get it the RRD again, follow these steps until you buy a new XBOX.

Call the 1800 number and put the serial number in to see if it's still under waranty because some were extended.

You have the Red Ring of death. For a temporary fix wrap it in a lot of towels and let it run for 20 mins, then let it cool down. This is a temporary fix! The real fix is to send it into Microsoft. You will need the original receipt handy to do this. If you have any questions for either solution I have a YouTube video for the temporary fix and more detailed instructions for the repair. The repair is free.

On a unit I checked with this same symptom, removing the top cover allows the unit to stay on and operate normally. There is some sort of sensor at the left middle of the chassis, which, when unblocked by any opaque object, allows the unit to remain on. A temporary fix (not advisable) would be to replace the top cover with a piece of clear plastic or taut saran wrap (no vent holes needed). It's unclear exactly where/what that sensor is from a cursory test. This is a work in progress on someone else's machine that I lack full access to.