One component have burned, maybe a triac or a trisistor ?
You have 5 similar components which are screwed on the metal. I cannot find datasheet for this number A69157 or A68063. It's fixed on the D13 holes. It looks like mosfet transistor.
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Maybe, you'd have to do some component testing and signal tracing to know for sure. I would strongly urge you to bring it into a professional, to prevent additional damage. If not, you can find replacement parts at these vendors:
Component failures on Maytag Neptune Font Load Washers such as the pressure switch, wax motor, hot and cold water valve solenoids, timer motor, 24 VDC circuit, and the overall electrical buffer circuit have significant effect on the machine control board. Failed resistors on the control board can be used to determine failed washer components. Resistor R9 is associated with the pressure, R11 is for the wax motor, R51 for the hot water valve solenoid, R52 for the timer motor, R53 for the cold water valve solenoid, R143 for the 24 VDC circuit, and R162 for the overall electrical buffer circuit. The TRIAC Q6 is also associated with the wax motor while TRIACS Q3, Q9, and Q17 are for the timer motor, cold water valve solenoid, and hot water valve solenoid respectively. These TRIACSmust also be replaced should the corresponding resistors have failed or burned out.
Inspect foil side of HV board for burned tracks toward lower side of board. If burned, check HV capacitors (High Voltage Capacitor Test Procedure) and HV transformers (High Voltage Transformer Test) for a short. Otherwise test other components as outlined above. Solution: Replace defective components as necessary. If applicable, repair foil trace on HV board.
Hope that helps.........
Apparently the switch is very easily available, unknown for what reason. In Europe they say it is not available at all anymore, which I find strange.
However! Dissasemble, by removeing base plate and screw underneath curved retainer plstic clip in the front. Then gently pry apart with blunt, thin object to split the two halves. Remember to unplug the power cord first. Check the circuit board for cracks, or burnt components. Then suspect the triac/tyristor. Desolder it and test it with a multimeter. (google "test triac multimeter"). Then note the code on the front of the triac, and search for a supplier of electronic parts to get hold of a new one and solder it back on. Note the orientation of the pins, and reattach heatsink if fitted. (Euro version have non.)The triac often looks like a flat design transistor and have a code/part nr that may look like; TCI 226 N, as on my European 230v version. Electronic components suppliers also have interchangeability lists for different manufacturers and use cross reference lists. Should only costs a few dollars or so. Triacs tend to stay fully open when failed, causing full speed in any mode. It is worth a shot.