Berkel bx20t mixer 2nd gear stays at first gear speed, what should hold the ratchet sleeve down to engage 2nd?

SOURCE: Kenwood Mixer A702

Hi,

There are not any new parts from Kenwood to A700 series, try to find it on internet or if anyone in the forum has one.

SOURCE: Question regarding KitchAid mixer, Model K45ss.

Yes this indeed does sound like you have a problem. There could be a couple different cause of this noise. If your main drive or worm gear has been damaged, it is likely to not run at all or jam up. So i think this is not the problem. There is however a codder pin located inside the transmission gears this can be seen by removing the upper housing of the unit, and then exposing the oil and gears. clear away the oil surrounding the gears, and save this grease for later. After this you should be able to visually see this codder pin AND the gears, rotate the gears while inspecting them and the pin. If the pin is slightly bent or broken this will make the grinding noise that your are talking about, while still operating and driving the unit. part number for the codder pin is 9705444. If however the noise is coming from the motor area this could indicate a worn or faulty motor bearing. This can cause the motor to operate on an angle and can cause a rubbing noise from the cooling fan or the winding of the motor itself rubbing on the mixer housing. Part number for the braket and bearing is 3180526. both are relatively cheap and easy to replace. If you find and fix the problem be sure to inspect or change the oil as this can often have metal chunks and other particles. Hope this Helps

Thanks

SOURCE: mixer run on high

Hi, RHASKEY. You don’t say what your model is, which would be most helpful, so I’m going to assume you’ve got one of the 6 qt Solid State mixers, models KD2661-3, KT2651-3 or KP2671-3 (an Epicurean or variation) or one of the 6 Qt. Professional 600 Bowl lift version like a KP26M1X model. Of course I could be way off base, too, so bear with me. BTW, the Hall Effect “switch” and Hall Effect “Sensor” are synonymous.
The Hall Effect sensor detects the rotation of the motor and limits the motors speed based upon your Selector switch lever setting. We don’t need to go into electromagnetic theory here, but it’s a pretty simple sensing device so I would suspect it’s not the cause of your problems. The Hall Effect Sensor feeds back to the (speed) Control Assembly and from your description of your mixer’s symptom’s I would say the signal is getting corrupted within the Control Assembly; hence the intermittent and erratic running.
The Control Assembly is a little PC board fabricated with numerous electronic parts; the more components the higher the probability one of them will go bad, for whatever reason. My recommendation would be to replace the Control Assembly board, but you can always order and replace the Hall Effect Sensor, too… We’re only talking a couple of dollars difference in parts.
The inspection and troubleshooting of the inside of your mixer is a DITY capability, particularly if your mixer is out of warranty. Just be sure to have the Parts List manual on hand. If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website (http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home).
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> and enter the 6 character model number and select one of the files listed under Parts List (check to see it this matches your mixer model).
After you’ve removed the Gearcase Motor Housing (mixer head top half) look where the Speed Control knob is attached. This will be the Control assembly. Inspect all the connections to see if a connection has come loose. Unfortunately the whole controller assembly is fabricated on a little PC board filled with resistors, capacitors and diodes, which was not meant to be 'home fixed'. My 'expertise' ends at being able to recognize a resistor from a capacitor. A local small appliance repair shop should be able to determine if the controller assembly is functioning properly or not or you can just order replacement parts without the testing.
As far as KA replacement parts go, here are four potential vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com. Prices for the same part can vary widely between vendors, so do your comparison shopping.
While your mixer is apart it would be ideal to check for any other unseemly wear and tear on the gears, etc. It can be messy but quite gratifying to diagnose and repair your mixer yourself.
Here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/reassembly of a KA Mixer.

• http://www.artisanbreadbaking.com/discussions/kitchen-aid.htm
• http://www.neilcrockett.com/mixer.htm
• http://www.foodonthefood.com/food_on_the_food/2009/04/how-to-repair-a-kitchenaid-mixer-yourself.html

SOURCE: I have a Kitchen Aid Professional 600, 6QT, 575 W

Hi DASCO474. This is not good... From the symptoms you describe your mixer’s Agitator shaft is dropping from the Planetary assembly. Something has caused the retaining clip and pin to break so allowing the agitator shaft to drop.
Fortunately the inspection and troubleshooting of the inside of your mixer is a DITY capability, particularly if your mixer is out of warranty. Just be sure to have the Parts List manual on hand. If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website at: http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home.
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> Enter the 6 character model number, in your case: KP26M1, and select one of the first two files listed under Parts List (47) (The first file, KP26M1XAZ4.pdf (304.18 KB), is for a -4 series model and the second file, KP26M1XAZ5.pdf (724.41 KB) is for a -5 series with slightly different insides, so make sure you have the correct Parts List manual.)
Turn to pages 4 & 5 entitled “Case, Gearing And Planetary Unit” for the disassembly and reassembly of your mixer, along with all the parts. Locate Illus. No. 28, Planetary Assembly and Illus. No. 34, Agitator Shaft. The parts which hold the Agitator Shaft within the Planetary are Illus. Nos. 9, Retaining Pin and 30, Retaining Clip. I suspect these parts have failed and will need to be replaced. Now the real fun begins!

To get to the Agitator Shaft gear you’ll need the following tools: a regular or Phillips screw driver, retaining clip pliers, and a small drift pin punch and a small hammer. After removing the Gearcase Motor Housing (mixer top) you will need to remove the Transmission Housing (Illus No. 4) and remove all the lubricating grease from the transmission housing and gears. This will allow you to remove Illus No. 7, 8, 9 & 10, Retaining Clip, Bevel Gear, Retaining Pin and Worm Gear Follower, respectively.
Once you remove the Retaining Pin (Illus. No. 9) the Planetary Assembly can be tapped down through the Lower Gearcase Assembly (Illus. No 11). With the Planetary removed, you should find all the parts which slide on the Agitator Shaft (Illus. Nos. 30, 31, 32, & 33) and pieces of the retaining pin, which should be loose in the base of the Planetary.
Besides ordering a new retaining pin and clip, you might want to reorder the Transmission Cover Gasket (Illus No. 6), too. You’ll also need to replace the grease you removed with new grease. Do not try to reuse any original grease as it may have ‘debris’ in it. You should use a food-grade grease that you can order online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call).
With your mixer apart and the grease removed from the gears you can check for any other unseemly wear and tear on the gears, too.
Here are five potential vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com; and Grainger.com (for grease). You should search for ‘food grade grease’ online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call). Prices can vary widely between vendors, so do some comparison shopping.
Here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/reassembly of a KA Mixer. The mixers displayed in the links are different KA models, but the principles are the same.

• http://www.artisanbreadbaking.com/discussions/kitchen-aid.htm
• http://www.neilcrockett.com/mixer.htm
• http://www.foodonthefood.com/food_on_the_food/2009/04/how-to-repair-a-kitchenaid-mixer-yourself.html

SOURCE: How to disassemble Black & Decker MX50 PowerPro Mixer

Regarding worn gears in cheapo Made in China mixers: The left gear wears symetrically different from the right due to torque and rideout. A temporary fix involves switching (juxtaposing) them left into right, vice-versa. Be sure to observe the position of the beater key slots beforehand to ensure that the beaters won't interfere with each other after reassembly. One is usually 45 degrees advanced from the other I / . You might have to remember that the beaters go in opposite of the way they used to.