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Jeff Pritz Posted on Dec 03, 2013
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Locks up in 3rd gear after rebuild

I've torn down the entire unit, cleaned and inspected parts. Replaced and updated worm gear. After rebuilding the unit locks up in 3rd gear. 1st & 2nd gear works fine. Went through the assembly again taking everything apart and inspecting it. Couldn't see anything out of the ordinary so I reassembled, but again as soon as I install the hub and shift it into 3rd it locks up?

1 Answer

Qwert Adams

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  • Posted on Dec 03, 2013
Qwert Adams
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Joined: Dec 02, 2013
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Jeff your almost there....it must be the shifter into third....it must not slide fully into third....check for wear marks on the worm gear....and try running it without the protective cover on to see how it changes from 1st, into 2nd, then third...that mechanisim if not engaging totally in third.

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  • Jeff Pritz
    Jeff Pritz Dec 03, 2013

    Qwert, thanks for the response. I've been at it all day building, tearing down, etc. I need to amend my original post and mention that it binds in 3rd and in 2nd. No amount of adjusting the center shaft corrects the concern either. Six ways to Sunday I know I have every part in the unit installed correctly.

    The original concern with the unit was a busted worm gear shaft "old style" and badly worn worm gear which I've attributed to the broken shaft.

    I'll check the shifter again, and let you know.

  • Jeff Pritz
    Jeff Pritz Dec 04, 2013

    It definitely has something to do with the shifter, but i don't know what. If I fully engage it into 3rd it binds, the same with 2nd, but ifI back it off from the #2 or #3 shift position no more binding. I know it's still in the desired gear 2nd or 3rd at least I think it is. Why would it start doing this after performing a rebuild?

  • Jeff Pritz
    Jeff Pritz Dec 04, 2013

    Qwert, I purchased a new worm wheel assembly from Treasue Coast because the old one the shaft was broken. I can tell now that when 3rd is engaged the worm wheel assembly pushes the transmission gear assembly away and this is when the binding is occurs after the clutch and transmission cover is installed. Is it not possible to install an updated worm wheel assembly in an older unit? If it is possible does one have to install a new transmission gear assembly at the same time as well so they are a matched set?

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2 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 49 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 29, 2008

SOURCE: Hobart a-200 3rd gear lock-up issue

do you have a spauge cutch first gear or a diving key locking type? sheck shifting collar for being rounded off on the gear and the collar they get rouned off and won't lock gear in.

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vestxre

  • 120 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 16, 2010

SOURCE: I have a hobart a-200 mixer that had the brass

Loosen the two planetary nuts, should be a thin nut and an acorn nut. With these loose make sure the large nut on top of the transmission is tight. Push the planetary all the way up on the shaft and turn the thin nut up until snug. Back the thin nut off 1/4 turn. Hold the thin nut in position and lock the acorn nut against it. The planetary must have a very small amount of up and down play.

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Hobart A200 transmission, marble sounds, resistance with shaft support installed

It sounds like there may be a few potential issues that could be causing the resistance you are experiencing:
  1. Incorrect installation of the slow speed gear or key - If the slow speed gear or key were installed incorrectly, this could cause increased resistance in certain gears. Double-check the installation of these components to ensure they are properly oriented and positioned.
  2. Stuck gears - If the gears and key are stuck on the drive shaft, this could cause increased resistance. Try removing the gears and key again, and make sure they are clean and free of any debris before re-installing them.
  3. Improper alignment of the gears - If the gears are not properly aligned, this could cause increased resistance. Check to make sure the gears are properly seated and aligned with each other.
  4. Damage to the worm wheel - The freshly chewed up center of the worm wheel could be causing increased resistance. Consider replacing the worm wheel if it appears to be damaged.
Overall, it may be helpful to consult the Hobart service manual for your specific model to ensure all components are installed correctly and to troubleshoot any additional issues that may be causing the resistance.
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It could be a different gear that is stripped in the mixer. There is also the chance that the gear that was sent you was damaged before it was put in, we do see chipped gears come from KitchenAid every once in a while. The best thing to do would be to take apart the mixer, clean the grease off the gears, and carefully inspect each one for chips or gouges in the gears.
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I have a KitchenAid stand mixer model KT2651X. It recently ground down the worm gear follower, which I purchased a new one along with a new worm gear because this is not the first time it ground down that...

It is not a good idea to modify anything in the unit to make part(s)
designed for another model fit. The KT and KP models have different
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I have a hobart a-200 mixer that had the brass drive gear go out. I rebuilt the transmission and used a parts breakdown to clean out and rebuilt the whole tranny. Now I have no 1st gear. Under a load...

Loosen the two planetary nuts, should be a thin nut and an acorn nut. With these loose make sure the large nut on top of the transmission is tight. Push the planetary all the way up on the shaft and turn the thin nut up until snug. Back the thin nut off 1/4 turn. Hold the thin nut in position and lock the acorn nut against it. The planetary must have a very small amount of up and down play.
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Just replaced the worm gear and cleaned out old grease adding clean new grease. Plugged the machine in and it will not run at all. The machine had been working but not well since I had stripped the worm...

Hi PEGNGEORGE. I can understand your frustration after getting all that work done for the gear and grease replacement just to find that it won’t run. Makes you want to scream. But before screaming, let's see what might be causing problems.
If your machine is not getting power to the motor, and you’re confident that the motor was not damaged by the stripped worm gear, which necessitated the replacement in the first place, then there are a few things that we can look at.
The easiest to check are the motor’s brushes. During your disassembly, did you remove either or both of the motor’s brushes (from the side of the mixer’s head)? If yes, then you need to check their alignment on the armatures’ commutator. The concave contact face should be resting completely on the comutator. If you've turned it 90 degrees too much, it wont' seat properly and you'll get no 'juice' to the electric motor so it won't start.
If the answer is no, and you said the mixer worked, but not well after the worm gear stripped, that would lead me to suspect the problem most likely will be with your speed control assembly.
Since you’ve already replaced the stripped worm gear, I imagine you have your mixer’s Parts List manual on hand, but if you don’t, you can download a PDF version from the KA website: http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home.
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> Enter the 6 character model number, in your case use K45SSW, and select the file listed under Parts List (1), K45SSWH0.pdf (341.41 KB). Check to ensure it matches your mixer model.
Turn to pages 6 & 7, titled: Motor And Control Parts, which provides an exploded view for the disassembly and reassembly of your mixer’s electrical components, along with all the parts. You’ll want to focus on Illus. No. 25, Control Plate Assembly.
First inspect around the control plate assembly to ensure all the wire connections are OK. It's possible a connection has come loose. Unfortunately the whole controller assembly is fabricated on a little PC board which was not meant to be 'home fixed', and my 'expertise' ends there. A local small appliance repair shop should be able to determine if the controller assembly is functioning properly or not, or you can just order replacement parts without the testing.
As far as parts go, here are four potential vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com. Prices for the same part can vary widely between vendors, so do your comparison shopping.
You may already know about the website links below when you replaced your worm gear, but it’s always good to keep these sites in your ‘toolbox’. Here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/reassembly of a KA Mixer.
Between these three websites and their excellent pictures and descriptions and your Parts List manual, you should now be able to completely disassemble and reassemble your mixer.
Good luck and have fun. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution has helped you, please rate it, thanks! - hslincoln
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Motor worm gear hobat a200

Harry, if you're confident that you can take it apart and repair it yourself, then do the following. Go to www.hobartservice.com website. Register, and when you've been admitted to the site find the discontinued products section on the left hand side of the page, click on it, then select the Food Machines Group, then select Mixers. Make sure that your ML# is covered by the document.Select the file numbered A-200 Parts List F-6728. pdf. Look for the ML#. Once you've selected the document, go to page #9, there you'll find the exploded drawings for the A 200 transmission parts. If you look at the whole document (15 pages), you should be able to see what needs to be taken apart to get at the worm gear.

If you're not sure you can do this...Then don't do it. But if you do, check all bearings, springs and gears for excessive wear and replace as necessary. Hobart techs do this stuff every day. For someone who has not done this kind of rebuilding before, it can be a long and expensive learning curve. Good luck. If you find that this solution has been helpfull to you, please rate it. ricardok45
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Hobart a-200 3rd gear lock-up issue

do you have a spauge cutch first gear or a diving key locking type? sheck shifting collar for being rounded off on the gear and the collar they get rouned off and won't lock gear in.
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does not sound good it need to be torn down and checked from here thats more then can be figured out sorry
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