No water on submersible pump

earth leakage is tripping the breaker from bad insulation or water in the motor or wires

Victoria, call a good electrician, sounds like a short in electrical system. Electrician will diagnose and give estimate for repair.
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Check the circuit breaker for the oven. 220 volts are necessary for the heating element. 110 volts for the light and clock controls. The 220 volt breaker looks like two side by side breakers with their trip levers joined. Sometimes one will trip without tripping the other. Try resetting the breaker or better yet replace it.

If the breaker is tripping you need an electrician to check wiring, pressure switch shouldn't be a problem. Don't try to work your way around electrical, always remember the unit will last longer if electrical is running properly to unit.

I don't know what the pressure switch operates, but I suspect when the pressure switch is actuated, it turns on a pump or a similar load. The breaker is reacting to the load after the pressure switch - not the the pressure switch itself. The switch doesn't make use of electricity - rather it stops the the flow of it, or sends it to something that makes either heat, light or magnetism (as in a motor).

Look at the load that is supposed to start or shut off when the pressure switch "kicks in" There is likely a problem with it - anything from a jammed pump, shorted winding in the motor, water in the motor, crushed / shorted wire, etc.

Hello
If this is a 220 volt pump then it needs to have 2 hot wires,so it would be connected to 2 15 amp breakers.The ground shold run from the pump back to the fuse panel box ground bar.

If this is a 115 volt pump it should be connected to one hot, one nutral, and one ground.

Possible a hot wire is making contact with water and tripping breaker.Or the pump motor is going to ground which means its no good.

It could be you have an obstruction in water flow. Are you sure your check valve is correctly installed ( not reversed ). If there is no check valve you might want to install one. A quick way to find out is to use an amp meter and monitor the amps. If it goes beyond the F.L.A. on what the pump is designed for and does not come back to norm after a few seconds, than this is what is probably happening. Be safe and always call an electrician.

The hot water heater should come with an amperage rating on it.
They vary from 30 to 40 amps, and then 10 or 8 gauge wire.
(All hot water heaters are 220 volt.)
I believe the 602 uses a 4500 watt element.
Divide 4500 by 220, and you get about 20 amps.

If you want to be on the safe side, you go with the heavier wire, 8 gauge, and then go with the smaller breaker that is more easily tripped, 30 amps. That way you can switch to a 40 amp breaker in the future, without having to change the wiring. The goal is to always make sure the wire is rated higher than the breaker. You want you breaker to trip before your wire melts.
But technically a 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wire would be fine for this heater.

And since it is 220 volt, you will always use a double breaker.
That is because 220 volt appliances don't use a ground, but instead use the potential between to power wires that are 180 degrees out of phase. AC always does a sine wave, and the 2 power leads coming into the house are always out of phase. When one is 110 volts up, the other is down. So the total between them is 220 volts. And the way they intentionally zigzag the breaker box, 2 breakers next to each other always are on opposite power lines.

If you have any doubts at all about 220 and water heater wiring, please ask again. Wiring is not hard, but you have to understand what you are doing, or else you can cause serious consequences.
For example, if you use wire nuts or wrap wire around a screw, you need to always turn them clockwise, so they pull the wire when tightened.
You also always need to ground the chassis with a green safety wire.
Since a 220 hot water heater uses 2 power wires and a safety ground, the white wire should be striped with a permanent marker, so that it is not confused with the white neutral wire of a 110 volt appliance.

Assuming that your Sears submersible pump Model
M4DO2B-01 can pump water at more than 25 feet
elevation. You can run it even without a manual. Just connect your discharge hose up to the point of discharge. Use a 220/110 volts transformer with a rating of at least 3KVA. Connect your 110 volt line to 110 outlet of the transformer and the submersible pump to 220 outlet of the transformer. This 3KVA transformer can handle up to 1HP pump.Send your
e-mail for further assistance.

Submersable pumps pull a lot of current on start up. Up to 7 times running momentarily. This is especially true of three wire pumps. ( Ground and 2 , 110V) 4 wire pumps have a capacitor start provision ( the extra wire) and a control box that greatly reduces the starting load by shifing the phase on startup.

4200 watts should handle it how ever if you have no line losses. Excess Line losses will do exactly what has happened to you. Overheated the connections and burned up the pump.

First check what gauge wire you have going from the generator to the pump and the length of the run. Check a wire gauge calculator such as http://www.denningelectronics.com/wiregauge.htm
use at least 4 times the running load for your wats and if it is a deep well pump, more than 50 feet of head from water to spickot) then use 7 times wattage. Use 5% line loss allowable,. This will probably uncover your problem as under size wire.

The other possibility is that the breaker was going bad over time and caused the voltage drop0 that destroyed the pump.

Last item you can do, check the voltage at the generator when the pump starts, it shold not drop more than 10% on start up.

Good luck