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A heat pump on the optimal heating day (about 50 degrees ambient) will only deliver approximately 85 degree air as compared to 125 degree air from a fossil fueled furnace. The colder the outdoor air is the less heat there is available to be transferred to the living space. At 30 degrees, the heat transfer capability is getting close to negligible meaning the run cycles will be approaching continuous and eventually as the heat pump along cannot maintain setpoint, the outdoor stat or stats will bring on auxilliary heat in the air handler.
If your ambient temp is below the 'balance point' of the heat pump, the house temp will drop a little lower and most times energize the heat strips through the outdoor t-stat. Your outdoor stat could be set too low for the heat pump to carry the structure all the way down to the balance point so when you turn it off and back on, the lower indoor temp automatically brings on the heat pump plus a heat strip or two, thus the warmer air. Second stage on the stat satisfies due to the heat strip, drops them out of the circuit and the heat pump is left running on first stage heat delivering the perceived cold air.
Your outdoor stat could also be not functioning correctly and not allowing the heaters to come on until the system is turned back on reestablishing the two stage call for heat.
Tons of possibilities and not enough room to list....
Hi, what causes the stat to continue to run is the heat anticipator setting in the stat. If you have gas heating, it could also be the setting on the fan limit switch. If it is shutting off, and takes about a minute this is pretty much the norm. Once its satisfied, the heat exchanger has to cool down and there is a time delay when this happens. Yes, the air will be cool, but just for a minute. You may have to set your stat a little higher to compensate for this delay. Yes, the fan will run after burner shuts down and it will then cycle down. If it runs and never shuts off, then I would say you have a real problem with the fan limit or relay. Try what I asked. There is not much you can do. The anticipator is a setting in the stat that is set at the factory. Its about 0.4. If you have your stat manual, it will tell you how to check it. Good luck, Shastalaker7 A/C & Heating contractor
Remove the cover to the thermostat to get to the control wires. Now remove the red wire from the stat. If it shuts off, the stat is bad. If it continues to run, the 24 volt hot wire from the stat to the unit is touching the cooling or heating wire somewhere from the stat to the control section of the unit. You can also disconnect the stat wires at the unit to prove this. You will need to pull a new set of stat wires to your unit, or if you have a extra wire not used , find the bare one that is touching, and use the spare wire in its place. Shastalaker7 A/C, & Heating Contractor
first look for red button neer the copper line set if has one push it second inspect thermostat wires for weed eater damage check disconnect for fuses check breaker at main panel pull disconect and remove cover check stat wire connections look at the capacitor if swelled up on top bad if all look ok put disconect in using insulated object manually push in contactor if unit comes on check for 24 volt ac on yellow stat wire to common if none stat wire could be loose at indoor unit or stat bad hope this helps you
There may be pins on the circuit board inside the air handler that you can adjust. First turn off the breaker then look inside at the board. They may say 30-45-60-90 etc. Put the pin on a lower number. Do you have a digital or programmable T-stat? There may be a setting in the T-stat setup program that allows for blower delay also. consult you installation instructions. Last if the blower isn't turning off at all then the relay on the circuit board is stuck closed and should be replaced.
It sounds like you have the fan turned on. If you go to the stat, you should see an auto button, or switch for the fan. If you just switch it to auto, the fan will stop, and only start when the unit calls for it, hope that helps
if your furnace is on 24 hours straight, before it heats up your home, then either your cold weather and indoor temps are extreme, or your unit is grossly undersized. if however your furnace cycles on and off when the temp is still way colder than you have set it you have either a bad stat that thinks its hotter than it is, or a bad furnace problem and even though the furnace is getting a signal from the stat to heat it is failing to do so. you'll have to watch and think this through to isolate the problem. if you set the furnace to max heat and it runs and heats the house reasonably quick then its probably going to be a bad stat. if you set it to max heat and it shuts off way before it gets to setpoint then the problem is in the furnace. be sure filters are clean, blower wheel is clean , returns are no obstructed, etc. if you by chance have an old mercury bulb stat they had a thing in them called a heat anticipator which basically worked like this. a dial with a little pointer determined how soon it would be till the furnaced reached the desired temp and anticipated how soon to shut off the burners in anticipation of the cool down period so you dont overshoot the desired temp. if these are bad or moved to different setting they can short cycle the furnace on of on off etc. or shut down the burner almost as soon as it lights. setting is usually at .4 to .6 on most, but really a digital stat is only way to go. by the way check to be sure you don't have a hot air supply grill blowing directly on the stat or it will shut off as soon as stat gets hot and rest of house will be cold. usual location is 5 feet off floor directly over the main return air grill or under it as the case may be. good luck
Simple Question: Did you check to see if the fan switch on the
t-stat is in ON or AUTO? If ON the fan runs nonstop. If in auto the fan cycles with the outdoor unit.
next does the fan shut off if you turn the t-stat to off?
A stuck relay should keep the fan running all the time.
Sometimes if the relay is stuck you can whack the side of the Air Handler and the connection will break.
Sometimes instead of a relay there is a stack switch.
It's a little black stack of 3 disks this is a bi-metal switch.
they do get stuck more often than relays.
The fan relay may be on a electronic board. I don't know for sure without seeing your unit.
Good Luck Phil