Dryer plugins when opening the dryer door while running we can feel a slight shock off of the door. What could it be?

Start the dryer and let it run for about 5-7 minutes, do you feel any heat if you open the door? If your dryer is producing heat most likely you have a restriction/blocked vent.

You can fix it,, Here is an easy test and I can give you a definite answer on your problem and solution

open your dryer door, on the door you should see a little peg or clip sticking out which pushes into a corresponding hole in the on the front of the dryer. That's the kill switch for the dryer , it will click when you push it in, hold that in and turn your dryer on its highest setting.
Then look in your dryer while it's running , inside in the back you will see a lot of holes or slats in which the heating element pushes the heat through. You should see a slight glow and feel heat from those holes/vents, if not then I'm saying your element is out. You can normally order one through your local hardware/ appliance store using the dryers model number. For anywhere from ($20-$50)

If this specific dryer has the door that opens forward (top to bottom as opposed to left to right, etc...) the common problem is that downward pressure on the door has bent it slightly. This happened on mine when one of my daughters would lean on the door while loading and/or unloading the dryer. If this is the case, then the door may pop open while running even though the latch looks good.

The best way to tell is just let the door rest naturally in the closed position. If it does not rest all the way closed, then the lower portion of the door & frame has been slightly bent as indicated above.

The door & frame has to be slightly bent/forced back out at the bottom. This can be accomplished with a large screwdriver or something similar such as a paint mixing paddle or basically anything that will fit between the bottom of the door (from the inside) and the dryer frame. Very slowly close the door with the paint paddle or large screw driver in place (again on the inside...not from the outside of the door). The goal is to just barely force the bottom of the door framing back out without warping it grossly.

Just take your time and be as gentle as possible & make small adjustments until the door will remain closed and latched.

The latch is really only required to keep the door secure while clothes are beating against the door interior. Proper alignment actually keeps the door closed.

Let me know if this helps.

Hi,

• Your dryer may use rollers, or wheels, to support the rear of the clothes drum. When these are worn out, they may cause the clothes drum to drop down slightly, which can pinch the clothes between the top of the clothes drum and the rear of the dryer interior. When the rollers wear out, you need to replace the whole set.

• Your dryer may have a felt-like seal at the rear of the drum. If this seal is worn, torn, or missing, clothes can get caught and torn in the space between the clothes drum and the rear of the dryer interior. When the rear seal wears out, you need to replace it.

• Your dryer probably uses nylon or plastic glides at the front of the clothes drum for support. When these are worn out, they may cause the clothes drum to drop down slightly, which can pinch the clothes between the top of the clothes drum and the front of the dryer interior. When the glides wear out, you need to replace them as a set.

ok, this is what you can check, manually turn the drum inside to feel if there is any tension, you should feel a slight resistance, if not then your belt has broken, if that is not the case you have a bad door switch but more than likely you have a bad fuse. if your lint filter is on top of dryer, this fuse is located in the back, it is white in color.

hi,check to see if element gets hot,run dryer for 5mins. open door and look at back of dryer.you should see a red glow.or you should feel heat.if not the element needs replaced.and make sure the tumble is tumblering. a dryer can sound like its running,but nothing is really happen.

If it is whirlpool--Make sure it has power. Then:Check the door switch. A little lever sticking down through top rightof door opening. If it is not there you will need new doorswitch(sometimes the little lever breaks off). If it is there and doesnot click when you press it in you need a new door switch. if it clicksand clicks when you close the door then you have a bad thermal fuse.The thermal fuse is found by taking the back of the dryer off. The fuseis an oblong white plastic piece with 2 wires attached.

Door switch part number 3406109
Thermal fuse part number 3392519

To me it sounds like you could have the polarity reversed on the wiring. Also is the outlet that it is plugged in to grounded that alone will cause a shock to be given off, Have goods holiday, biigg53566+

Disconnect the dryer from its power source before servicing!

Inspect for a brokren drum belt. The humming noise is probably the motor running with no belt. You can easliy identify this by opening the dryer door, rotate the drum by hand by using a baffle as a gripping point. If the drum rotates freely, the belt is gone. If you feel a slight degree of resistance or drag, then you will have to go internal to inspect for the belt and associated rollers and idler pulley to make sure they are free rolling.

ALL service is perfromed from the FRONT. Shock Hazard Warning! Open the dryer door aand remove the screws that hold the door hinges, remove the door, and on the opposite side that have just 2 screws where the door would attach if it was converted to the oppsite opening direction, and remove the front panel. Remove the front bulkhead,(the internal drum opening panel), by removing the 4-5/16" screws that hold it to the outer side panels. Reach back to the rear of the motor and release the tension on the idler and drum belt. Remove the belt and lift drum slightly upward and remove from the unit. You should then observe 2 rollers about 3" in diameter positioned at about 5 and 7 o'clock. The roller at the 5 o'clock position is most likely bound up or not free-rolling. TRU-ARC spring clips,(you may need to purchase), retain the rollers on the shaft and need to be carefully removed and saved for reaasembly. Inspect roller at 7 o'clock for free operation. Purchase what you need and reassemble.

Hope this helps!