20 Most Recent Whirlpool LEN2000PW Dryer Questions & Answers

If this specific dryer has the door that opens forward (top to bottom as opposed to left to right, etc...) the common problem is that downward pressure on the door has bent it slightly. This happened on mine when one of my daughters would lean on the door while loading and/or unloading the dryer. If this is the case, then the door may pop open while running even though the latch looks good.

The best way to tell is just let the door rest naturally in the closed position. If it does not rest all the way closed, then the lower portion of the door & frame has been slightly bent as indicated above.

The door & frame has to be slightly bent/forced back out at the bottom. This can be accomplished with a large screwdriver or something similar such as a paint mixing paddle or basically anything that will fit between the bottom of the door (from the inside) and the dryer frame. Very slowly close the door with the paint paddle or large screw driver in place (again on the inside...not from the outside of the door). The goal is to just barely force the bottom of the door framing back out without warping it grossly.

Just take your time and be as gentle as possible & make small adjustments until the door will remain closed and latched.

The latch is really only required to keep the door secure while clothes are beating against the door interior. Proper alignment actually keeps the door closed.

Let me know if this helps.

Its a good possibility that you have lost the nuteral connection at the power block or the receptical .

Remove the front blower cover assembly. Remove the round retaining clip on center of blower wheel. Pull blower wheel off motor shaft. Remove belt from motor pully. Pull out dryer drum. Remove clips holding motor to base frame. Remove motor assy. Easy peezy. Reassemble in the opposite manner.

1) unplug the dryer. 2) Remove the lint screen on the top of the dryer. 3) take the two phillips head screws out where the lint trap is. 4) with a flat head screwdriver pop the top of the dryer up by sliding the driver inbetween the top and front of the dryer and pry upwards a little. 5) on the left and right upper inner sides of the dryer you will find two screws, one on each side, remove these and the front should be easlily remove. 6) Next is to remove tension from the belt so that you can remove the drum. To do this simply reach under the drum and pull the idler pulley in the direction of the closest wall. This will give you the slack needed to take the belt off. 7) carefully pull the drum out. I usually do this by lifting up on the left from the top, using it as a handle. This is helpful because it also prevents the belt from getting snagged on anything underneath.If the dryer is a DUET or HE2 or HE3 style, (dryers that match the front loader) then the way you take the top off is a little different. For these machines, there are 3 to 4 screws located on the top back side you'll need to remove, and then the dryer top can be slid back and removed. http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=694004&ModelNum=LEN2000PW0&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=3&Selected=4QTLENRF&Position=2&mfg=Whirlpool&Type=&Mark=2 If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

If the problem is a direct result of converting the dry for use with a 3 wire cord from a 4 wire cord, I suspect the wiring is wrong. Further, if this were the case, I would expect that fuses would blow or the circuit breaker would open (unless your electric panel and breakers are Federal Pacific Electric brand). It is important to note that the National Electrical Code no longer permits changing the cord to a 3 wire type. The Code says that the outlet and cable between it and the panel should be changed to a new 4 wire type. No one will enforce this issue or cite you, but eventually, I expect that it will be required to be upgraded as a condition of selling the house, or some other point in time, etc.

In any case, here's a site with detailed info on the cord change over procedure. If all is good, and you still have the strange sound - something else is wrong in the dryer.

I hope this helps and good luck!

you will need to open the cabinet:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+new-whirlpool-open-cabinet+repair.htm

then replace the belt:

http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/25860-dryer-belt-diagrams.html

hope the helped Tim

check the hose or the duct that vents outside

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

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Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the blower motor to make sure it is not faulty, also check the blower fan blade to make sure it is not broken or plugged with lint.
Check the Door Switch.
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape and running the dryer to check to see if the element is red or not,
or with an ohm meter check the two terminals of the thermostat/thermister
after you have removed the wires, the thermostat/thermistor should have/show continuity across the terminals.
If the coil heats up, or the thermostat/thermistor shows an open circut
then replace the thermostat/thermistor as it is defective.
If it overheats the dryer will not operate properly.
It's located on the blower housing.
It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
You can test it with an Ohm meter/continuity checker, if no continuity,
replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website, it will give you an idea what you are in for:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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You had to slam the door on it because the connections inside the dryer door switch were going bad. But now with it not working at all the door switch has completely gone out. Depending on which appliance repair company you get the part from it should be around $20-30.

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, or maybe your drum belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.

Note: This method works with most front loading machines.

Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer.
Note: Some tops hinge and tilt backwards so they do not have to be removed and the electrical console with stay with the lid.
Also remove the lint filter and the screws holding the lint filter housing in place.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.Now is a good time to replace the front felt seal on the drum if it needs to be replaced. Be sure to use a good grade of weatherproof cement on the seal to glue it to the drum, sometimes the glue is furnished with the seal.
Now is also a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also to check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt.
Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots they will make a thumping type of noise or if there is too much wear on them replace them.
If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3inOne oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.

This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

BE SURE TO UNPLUG YOU MACHINE FROM THE WALL BEFORE YOU START ANY WORK.
Your problem could be a Thermostats/Thermistors malfunction or Heater coil faulty.
You will have to locate the air tube that is going to the dryer drum. Same general area where the heater coil is located.
Is also where you will find most of them.
They normally are round/oval shaped and have two wires connected to them. Take off the wires and with an Ohm meter set to "continuity" check your thermostat/thermistor.
If you have continuity across the terminal it is not faulty.
Be sure to check all of the thermostats/Thermistors.
If this is not your problem then it will be the Control board if you have one on your machine.
Look for the fan blade to be in the air tube going to the dryer drum.
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Sometimes the heat sensor/ igniter gets carboned up and needs to be lightly sanded or cleaned for it to sense heat. That could prevent the main gas valve from opening and staying open. Also, does your unit have a heat limit switch or thermal switch that could be faulty? Check the wiring diagram.

Hi, If you have a gas dryer.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...

Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

Gas Dryer not Working Gas Dryer Not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

If your dryer is electric..
There could be a number of different problems...
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

Dryer Troubleshooting Electric Dryer won t Heat
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

heatman101

You are going to have to replace the switch. The switch is not staying open and is closing the circuit not allowing you to continue to send the electrical current to the system. Once this is replaced your unit will work just fine. You can go to your local appliance store with the make, model and serial number and get the part for about 20 dollars, and install it yourself which will have a set of instructions to do the install once you purchase the products

It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61