Frigidaire FRS26ZRGD4 side by side refrig.

Hello,

This tip i wrote will show you what to check on the defrost components to see why your ref. keeps frosting up. http://www.fixya.com/support/r10097882-wrong_when_freezer_frosted_refrig_warm



GENE

Hello,
Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working ok . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrig side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and foreward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly thru the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and reinstall the refrig control section . Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired togather and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .
Good luck in solving this....

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with yourrefrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

Hi,
The drain for the water to get away when defrosting is frozen shut...
Checkout this tip to help you..

Water Running in Refrigerator from Freezer
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3780310-water_running_in_refrigerator_from

heatman101

your damper door located between the refrige and freezer compartment is iced up fully open,you need to defrost it, then see if this closes when the cold control is adjusted

Your auto defrost system is faulty. But, there are several parts that can be the problem. The defrost timer, the defrost stat, the defrost coil, or the drain line clogged ( but usually not a drain clog problem with a side by side refrig.). The timer is the first to check- it is either in frig compartment, or under neath refrig. in the front. If it is mechanical you can check it , but if it is electronic, you need a tester. The other 2 items are located in the back of the freezer compartment (coil and stat) and you need to have all ice completey removed to access these parts. Again, you will need a tester (elec. continuity or ohm tester).
The stat is $10-15. coil is $30-65, timer $20-35 if mechanical. Goodluck, Macgivor

Your refrigerator may be stuck in defrost cycle. I know it has a defrost timer part number 215846602 Most times they are located inside the fresh food compartment behind the control panel. Sometimes below fridge and behind kick plate. The thermostat could be defective also. You can check that by unplugging the refrigerator remove cover and checking continuity between the two male connections located on the rear side of thermostat control turned as cold as you can turn it. Or you can join the two wires together and plug refrigerator back in to see if compressor comes on. When you find the defrost time turn clockwise slowly until the refrigerator starts. If these don't work let me know and we will do some more test. Sea Breeze

i would suggest the evaporator heater or thermal fuse (if applicable) has failed.

you have a defrost problem it could be:bad defrost timer,defrost heater or defrost therm.

The refrig side does not have a fan. only the freezer. Is that fan working??? you will hear it when the unit is running (and not in defrost) The clicking you hear is the Damper (a motorized door allowing more or less air to the refrig) opening or closing. Is there frost buildup on the back wall of the freezer??