20 Most Recent Metabo GE700 Grinder Questions & Answers

May be a bearing going bad and starting to get tight creating the excess heat.

Two things can cause this,the blade isn't centered or the shaft is bent from a fall.Take the blade off and make sure the center hole is over the shoulders on arbor nuts. To check for a bent shaft take off the blade and tighten the arbor nuts and bring it up to speed.You can email them http://www.metabo.com/E-Mail-Center.2032.0.html The Metabo 3-year warranty

Our power tools have a particularly long service life. Since repairs are so rarely required, Metabo has developed an additional warranty for you - the XXL-warranty.If you register, the normal warranty is extended to 3 years. Prerequisite is the sales receipt together with the XXL warranty certificate that you can generate after registering your machines.

You can register within the first 4 weeks after the purchase.Thank you for choosing fixYa

bad clutch http://www.ereplacementparts.com/metabo-ge700-06303420-710w-die-grinder-parts-c-8879_9109_9275.html?osCsid=4difnk3q6s7mlf4stf0vjo6p74 # 10 part

could be a couple problems, either the clutch or the carrier is bad. I suggest going to "ereplacementparts.com" and you can download a parts breakdown and also order parts from their site. It shows the clutch and also the carrier I was talking about. Let me know if you need more assistance.

Needs new brushes. http://www.metabo.com/Spare-parts-lists-handheld.16913.0.html

When the brushes wear down they are held back by there power wires.There should be a set of small holes in the brush holders.Push new brushes to the bottom and put a wire through the small holes to hold brushes in place during reassembly.Pull out the wires and the new brushes will seat. Brushes don't cost all that much.

This is an electric die grinder? Do a quick Google search for "Router speed control". That'll work fine for any electric die grinder.

The metabo die grinder shouldn't have any clutch.

depends on condition and what comes with it. generally starts at $500 in good shape and up to 850 if excellent with many extras (chucks, rests, knurling attach, faceplates, etc) Also, check for accuracy...

Yes all the tool places say discontinued. Yes, bypass it, but make sure you don't overwork the grinder. https://www.google.com/search?q=2610904741 ..

Out of warranty ... time for a replacement machine.I would choose a different make. Assuming the batery is not the fault.

DIRTY CONTACTS POSSIBLY

Size for size and component value identical on replacement. Fit the correct part.

Considering how potentially dangerous grinding machines and wheels are and how much safety legislation exists about their maintenance, adjustment and use, a great deal of printed matter exists about these things and the wide range and selection of wheel material. You should have no bother finding useful information, fortunately bench grinders are extremely similar to each other... https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfimages/b6/b64b39fb-6d42-4fec-a274-76bbd950e6d8.pdf

Mmmm... that's a little more complicated. If you have a continuity / resistance meter, we can noodle it out, though. First, are the two white wires the ONLY wires coming from the motor? I suspect they are - that's not in conformance with any accepted color code, but it'll work. For the rest of this, I'll assume that the two white wires are the only ones from the motor. You'll need to meter the switch itself, with no wires connected to it. In the OFF position, you shouldn't find continuity between any of the four switch contacts. In the ON position, you should find continuity between two pairs of contacts. The black wire from the power cord should go to ONE of the two switch contacts in a pair that have continuity with the switch turned ON. One (either) of the white wires from the motor should go to the other switch contact IN THAT PAIR. That leaves you with one more pair that has continuity with the switch turned ON. The white wire from the power cord goes to one of those, and the second white wire from the motor goes to the other one. When you have it all wired up, plug it in & turn it on. If it's not right, it should immediately pop your circuit breaker. If it IS right, it should run fine. If it pops your circuit breaker, open it back up and swap one wire from the power cord and one wire from the motor.

Search using https://www.google.com or eBay.com Example of search result: http://www.1sourcecomponents.com/partinfo/Fa4-12/2bd%20trigger%20switch.htm

One turn.

Find a Single Pole Single Throw (spst) toggle switch at the local hardware store rated for the load of the grinder. Wire the switch in place and viola you are done! Machines are stupid;they can tell the difference between an oem part and a replacement.

You can get a replacement toggle switch at any hardware store look in the electrical department.

If you can't find the direct replacement check with Grainger or other industrial supply house ... https://www.grainger.com/category/push-pull-switches/automotive-electrical-and-lighting/fleet-and-vehicle-maintenance/ecatalog/N-15m5?okey=push-pull+switches&mkey=Push%2FPull+Switches+&refineSearchString=push-pull+switches&NLSCM=5&EndecaKeyword=push-pull+switches&searchRedirect=push-pull+switches&sst=subset&suggestConfigId=6&nls_boost_words=noContent

I cleaned all the wiring connectors etc and used a 4-way extension cord with an i/o switch and thermal/arc breaker surge protector thingy. I had a piece of thick cable with a molded three prong plug which I had removed from a dead paper shredder (I think??) and connected the ground to the case (previously not connected) the black to the black and white to the white. I taped the connections and plugged the test cable into the extension thingy with its switch off and plugged it into the wall outlet. Then, with the grinder switch on, I gingerly switched on the extension thingy and the grinder (sans all moving parts) ie just the motor case and spindle (held securely in the B&D workmate) and viola(!) it worked fine and built up to very fast. I switched off the grinder switch and the motor slowed, taking an age to come to rest.
Then, I fitted a grinding wheel on the left hand thread end, tightened everything and retested, using the grinder switch to start it and it spun really fast.
Soooo, I guess the secure ground is an essential feature of a capacitor induction motor. I checked some old furnace motors that were "maturing" in the basement and they had no capacitor but only 2 wires...
I am now trying to remember which parts came off last and put it all back together. I plan to test it each time I put a part back...just in case. I hate it when you fix something on the bench and when rebuilt, it won't work...don't ask about the electric starter on the snowblower..not a happy puppy!
Please, pretty please and then some, do tell me if my "fix" is wrong and I could risk all kinds of nastiness.
Thanks,
Jenni.