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The problem is in the wiring harness,yes the battery and starter is good, the harness you repaired is the PRNDL. for the starter to start it need a path when the vehicle is Park or Nuetral,there the path is closed some how by Park and Nuetral the path is open.Thats why there is a no start.when in park or nuetral the path is closed.
you need to test the ignition wire on the solenoid the small one when you turn the key to start the car if the test light lights and the starter does not kick in yes its # 4 while holding the key in start position bang on the starter with a hammer it might start its a common problem with fords bad starter rebuilds and a lot of heat under the car but if you have no test light lit while turning the key then you have another problem like ignition switch or nuetral safety switch hope this helps
check the starter switch, some break inside and only part of the connection is lost. it's like an ignition on a car that has half the contacts touching
This bike is probably equipped with immobilizer system and you should have a red key along with two black ones. That means that if the ECU does not detect the correct key code from the IC inside the key, it will neither give power to the fuel pump nor to the spark plugs. The main key switch has a lot of wire in 2 groups.One big and one small (thin).Which wires did you jumped?
If it is a manual trans could be nuetral saftey switch but other then that check grounds at the bettery and engine .Still could be starter like you said flat spots on it hope this helps.
sounds like the starter solonoid(or relay) has gone on vacation with out you or the bike the clicking noise would be the (relay) solonoid trying to complete the circut to engage the starter
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