Hi, Peter and the usual suspects are:
1. Improperly loaded motorcycle. Non-standard equipment on the front end such as heavy radio receivers extra lighting equipment or luggage tends to cause unstable handling.
2. Incorrect air suspension pressure.
3. Damaged tires or improper front-rear tire combination.
4. Irregular or peaked front tire tread wear.
5. Incorrect tire pressure.
6. The shock absorber is not functioning normally.
7. Loose wheel axle nuts. Torque to recommended specifications.
8. Excessive wheel hub bearing end play.
9. Improperly vehicle alignment.
10. Steering head bearings improperly adjusted.
11. Tire and wheel unbalanced.
12. Rims and tires are out-of-round or eccentric with the hub.
13. Rims and tires are out-of-true sideways.
14. Loose spokes.
15. Shock absorber improperly adjusted.
16. Worn engine stabilizer links.
17. Damaged rear engine isolation mounts.
18. Swing arm pivot shaft improperly tightened or assembled.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. VTX 1800 Handling Problems http://www.triketalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-1065.htmlHonda VTX1800R Owner Manual service manual, not owners. https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda VTX1800R Owner Manual
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. uh oh Battery not charging HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR... Honda VTX1300S Service Manual http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda VTX1800R Owner Manual
Hi, Dandelude975 before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. Faulty ignition relay.
14. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
15. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Bike wont turn over Help vtx 1800 2005 vtx 1300 won turn over Honda VTX1800R Owner Manual service manual not owners http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda VTX1800C Owner Manual
Hi, Anonymous, it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity or adventures, laying the bike down or crashes, rain storms or bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints or aids into tracking down the gremlin, also for 2003 and older models carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes and reduce the risk of being stranded or towed also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM like parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or your speedometer sensor is contaminated and needs to be cleaned.
And the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
2. Faulty charging system.
3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors
4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. The engine got wet where it didn't like to get wet.
6. Faulty ignition circuit spark plugs, coils, cables etc.
7. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. Run speedometer diagnostics and check for generated fault codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. F1 light is lit and engine is sputtering Honda Motorcycles Fault Codes Motorcycle Manuals PDF http://www.shocitalia.com/Manuali/VTX1800/Honda_VTX1800_C_02-03.pdf http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda VTX1800C Owner Manual
Hi, Anonymous before you can diagnose any electrical component in the starter circuit your battery must be fully charged to 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts but little or zero amps and the battery must be replaced. Your starter motor stays engaged because the solenoid positive plunger contact plate/disc has spot welded itself to the negative contact shoes usually caused by low battery voltage and/or a faulty starter relay, your starter motor has two main systems the motor itself and the starter solenoid which transfers high amperage to the motor enabling it to turn over your engine, your issue only involves the starter solenoid and may be repaired without removing the starter in most cases and depending on the model of your Harley may require removing the rear exhaust pipe if it's in the way. The solenoid is the part that has a large copper stud protruding from it that the positive battery cable connects to. Start by disconnecting the battery negative cable and wrapping the cable terminal with any kind of tape so it will not accidently touch metal and make all electrical circuits hot again, remove the starter solenoid cap, secured with 3 screws 1989 and later or 2 screws 1988 and earlier, with a screwdriver break away the contact plate from the shoes and clean/dress all electrical arc residue. In order to diagnose the starter circuit, you must start with a fully charged battery, 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test if necessary. The battery cables and terminals must be clean and tight. The "NEGATIVE" cable is famous for corroding and or breaking inside the harness, check the terminals at both ends. Check your starter relay with a test light for continuity, it could be faulty due to corrosion and sticking in a closed configuration, another claim to fame. Finally, there is the starter solenoid, low battery voltage or faulty battery connections will cause extremely high amperage at the plate and contact shoes and rob the hold in coils of much-needed voltage. In extreme cases, the solenoid plunger plate will literally spotweld itself to the contact shoes, keeping the circuit closed and thus permanent engagement. Another scenario is unacceptable voltage drop to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch to the starter relay to the starter button, and finally to the solenoid. Remove the green wire from the starter solenoid and hook up the positive lead of your voltmeter to the green wire connector and ground the negative lead. Turn on the ignition switch and depress starter button, the voltage reading should be no more than 1/2 volt less than the battery voltage. If it is more than 1/2 volt you need to backtrack that part of the circuit with your voltmeter until you find the voltage robbing offender. Next, remove the solenoid plunger, dress the plate and the contact shoes of arching residue and make sure the contact shoes are tight and secure. If you have done all of the above, replace the green starter button wire, hook up your voltmeter to the battery and check the voltage drop when you start the engine, anything below 9 volts could indicate a faulty battery and a proper load test should be performed.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Solenoid stuck starter stuck on Tech Talk goldwingdocs com bike won shut off Honda VTX1800R Owner Manual service manual, not owners http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda VTX1800C Owner Manual