Question about 1984 Laverda Alpino 500

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Bike turn off while driving

So

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I was on my way home from work when I stopped at the stop light and when I went to take off my bike just died. It started right back up but as I gave it gas it would die again. I managed to roll it out of traffic into a parking space. I tried the choke the fuel valve, but nothing worked. It would idle, but as soon as I would give it some gas it would just sputter and die. I got a ride to my house where I got my truck and came back to my bike. I started it up and soon as I gave it some gas, it died. I started it up again and gave it some gas and then it started working just fine. I revved it a few times, but it wouldn't die again. I drove it home and didn't have a problem. It seems to be running fine now. What the heck?? It only has 693 miles on it. It has almost a full tank of gas. What could possibly be wrong?,It's fuel or air related. If your bike didn't have any issues at all, no minor symptoms until it fell on its face like that, I'd wager something worked its way loose. Could be something is preventing fuel from reaching the carbs or something rattled loose in your airbox or carb boots. If something blocked off your air filter it would show those symptoms, or if you suddenly had a huge vacuum leak from a carb boot coming undone. I'd start by verifying you have fuel in the carbs by attaching a length of tubing and opening the drain screw at the bottom. Fuel comes out of your carbs, look elsewhere. No fuel, find out why it's not getting to your carbs. Perhaps your fuel line kinked.,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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Drive {pedel cog} just turns but will not drive the wheel cog


If a one speed coaster brake the rear hub needs to be overhauled. Take to a bike shop or bike co-op, unless you want to look up, study and follow carefully: Bicycle Coaster Brakes

Nov 14, 2016 | Cycling

Tip

How to Remove and Replace the Bottom Bracket on an Indoor Cycling Bike


Following is a basic guideline of removing and replacing the bottom bracket on an indoor cycling bike. Due to the different brands of indoor cycling bikes and designs for bottom brackets, the following should only be used as a guideline. If any of the information is not exact to the bike being serviced, refer to the service manual or call Sportsmith for further help.
Common Tools Needed:
Phillips Screw Driver
Set of Allen Wrenches (standard and metric)
Bottom Bracket Tool
Cotterless Crank Puller Tool
9/16" Socket
Ratchet Wrench
Pedal Wrench
Crescent Wrench
You will begin by removing the outside belt/chain guard by using either or both the Phillips screw driver and Allen wrenches. It may be necessary to remove the drive side pedal (using the pedal wrench) in order to completely remove the outside belt/chain guard.
Once the belt/chain guard is removed, you will need to remove the belt/chain. If the unit is belt driven, you can simply "walk" the belt off the pulley by pushing the belt to the outside while turning the crank backwards. **CAUTION: PINCH POINT ** If the unit is chain driven, most use a continuous chain that can be "walked" off the sprocket just like the belt. **CAUTION: PINCH POINT ** Some chains may use a connecting link and can be separated at the connecting link to remove the chain. The connecting link is different in appearance from all other chain links.
Now it is time to remove the crank arms. How to Use a Cotterless Crank Puller Tool
It works best to place the bike upside down for best leverage to remove the bottom bracket. (If placing the bike upside down, ensure proper seat adjustment for best bike balance.) Begin removing the bottom bracket from the drive side of the bike. This side has a reverse thread. You will need to turn right to loosen and remove the bottom bracket. Place the teeth of the bottom bracket tool into the teeth of the bottom bracket cup. Using the ratchet wrench or crescent wrench to turn the bottom bracket tool, you will turn right to loosen and remove the bottom bracket. (If removal of the bottom bracket is difficult, it helps to use a crescent wrench in combination with a bolt threaded into the bottom bracket shaft to hold the tool in place while applying pressure to break the bottom bracket loose.) Remove the bottom bracket from the frame. Remove the bottom bracket cup and/or lock ring from the non-drive side of the bike. This is a standard thread. You will turn left to loosen and remove this bottom bracket cup and/or lock ring.
Install the new bottom bracket from the drive side and tighten flush to the frame. Install the bottom bracket cup and/or lock ring to the non-drive side and tighten.
Re-install the crank arms and pedals. Make sure the crank arm bolts are tightened to the proper torque. If unsure of proper torque specs, refer to the equipment service manual or call Sportsmith.
Re-install the belt/chain onto the pulley/sprocket. If belt/chain was "walked" off the pulley for removal, it can be "walked" onto the pulley/sprocket by placing the belt or chain along the bottom of the pulley/sprocket. Carefully, turn the crank arm forward while lifting on the belt/chain. **CAUTION: PINCH POINT ** Continuing turning the crank forward until the belt/chain is in place.
Re-install the outside chain guard and test the unit. Ride the bike without tension and test with tension. Ensure functionality and feel of the ride. Make any adjustments if necessary


Removing and Replacing Bottom Bracket on Indoor Cycling Bike

on Mar 11, 2015 | Exercise & Fitness

2 Answers

The bike won't start


Hi Thomas put the bike in a high gear and turn the back wheel to make sure the motor is turning over. If it is try booster cables. If that don't work follow the plus cable to the starter solonide and cross the two heavy cables with a screwdriver if the starter is still not working you will need a starter. Regards Jim...

May 12, 2015 | 2007 Suzuki Boulevard

2 Answers

Choke needs 2 be up when driving motorbike, is dat bad for da bike?


A choke reduces the air flow to make the mixture rich. Unless the mixture is too lean because of fuel issues.

Apr 10, 2015 | 1994 Yamaha XJR 400

1 Answer

2007 Road King Classic stalls unexpectedly when driving...no sputtering, just shuts down...starts back up whether stationary or driving...but no warning about cut off


Will the bike start up without turning off? If you have to turn ignition off then on again before it will start it may be the bank angle sensor gone faulty. This will set NO error codes in memory as it is NOT a recognised fault. ECU simply thinks bike has fallen over and shuts engine down.

Oct 10, 2013 | 2007 Harley Davidson FLHR Road King

1 Answer

When I start my bike and hold the clutch in to put the bike in 1st the bike turns off


check your kick stand bike have something on them that will not let you drive with the bike in gear

Jul 07, 2012 | 2007 Triumph Daytona 675

1 Answer

I have a 2004 Dyna Low Rider. I just replaced the battery, and after a short ride, I was opening garage door, left it running and propped it on kickstand. Heard a small rattle as I walked away. Returned...


Hi,
Sounds like the solenoid relay is stuck up and shorted your starter! Better check the starter, pull it down and look if the bendix drive is still intact, upon driving and engine is running the bendix drive is still engage, thus it might have broken and loosen up.
If you can't repair it, a mechanic can certainly repair it, hope that bendix drive is still okay, if damage is already done, just replace that part. The solenoid that gives power and pushes the bendix drive is at fault, better check that too, it is the first one that malfunctioned and damages the bendix.
Hope that helps you out!
thanks for using FixYa!

Jul 03, 2011 | 2004 Harley Davidson FXDL - FXDLI Dyna Low...

1 Answer

I have a Heritage Softail 87 on my way home I lost all gears, clutch feels fine, and I can feel it select gears but still no engagement of the gears, the bike also runs fine but no neutral light. Cheers...


Put the bike in gear with the engine not running. Try to push the bike. If the bike rolls freely, the final drive belt is broken. Check the tension on the belt. The only other thing that I can think of is the final drive belt front pulley has stripped out. The early belt drive bikes, the front belt drive pulley was very thin in the area where the splines were cut for the final drive gear. In 1994, Harley can out with an improved front pulley and offered a retrofit kit to replace the earlier models. When the front pulley strips the splines out, it will not drive the rear drive belt. The final drive gear simply turns inside the center bore of the pulley.

To change the belt on your Softail, you'll have to pull the outer primary cover, the entire primary drive mechanism, the inner primary, the starter, the exhaust system (to get the starter off), the rear wheel, and the swing arm. If the pulley is bad but the belt is good, you do not have to pull the rear wheel and the swingarm.

Good Luck
Steve

Apr 21, 2011 | Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail...

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