Cycling - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

There is no single database of bike serial numbers. Just Google "Roadmaster serial number." Nobody can do any better than that for you. You can also check my tip for info on determining value:
How to determine the year value etc of your bicycle

Roadmaster... | Answered 13 hours ago

If by your almost unintelligible question you are asking what CF 1505 means on a Raleigh frame, I would suggest you Google "Raleigh bike serial number" and see what you come up with. If you don't have the courtesy to provide a clearer question and more information I don't see why anyone should make more effort than you.

Raleigh Cycling | Answered 13 hours ago

I would suggest finding someone who is accustomed to fixing metal equipment. There's nothing special about the trike that requires specific tools or knowledge.

Cycling | Answered 21 hours ago i no it says page 4 but it gives you the full manual hope this helps you out

Fitness Quest... | Answered Yesterday

Manufacturers often use the serial to identify manufacture date. On yours , I don't know but its possible that the F means 6th month and the 9 is the year, that would make it June 2009. If you have a rough idea on its age, you could try different methods using the letter and numbers to see what is likely. There is also the chance that the serial means nothing more than the build number of the bike. Contact the manufacturer, they should be able to tell you.

Cycling | Answered 3 days ago

A group of book

Answer Carbon... | Answered on Apr 26, 2017

The exercise bike sounds like the Proform XP70. It has a carb counter feature. Here is the link to the PDF of the manual.

Good luck,

Cycling | Answered on Apr 26, 2017

Google "Mongoose serial number" - the same thing anyone here would have to do, as there is no central database for bike serial numbers. Other than your own curiosity it's not important to know what year it is. Also, please note that when asking for "any info" it is helpful to give some info, such as a model name, what type of equipment, picture of bike, etc.

Mongoose Cycling | Answered on Apr 25, 2017

Try 0005 (It worked for me)

Magnum Cycling | Answered on Apr 25, 2017

I am not familiar with the type of bicycle but I assume the bike is currently a fixed wheel type - the type sometimes described as an ash track racer?

The problem when converting will be keeping the frame geometry correct while bending the rear forks to accommodate the wider axle of the wheel with a deraillier gear. It is necessary for the chain wheel to align exactly with the middle sprocket of the cluster.

The best option would probably be to fit a two, three or four speed hub.

Cycling | Answered on Apr 24, 2017

Hey im55830,

I was the production foreman for Pro Tec way back when, so hopefully I can help you a little.

As for the tire, depending on the actual production date and model, most of them were manufactured in house, so unless someone happens to have a supply stashed somewhere there is no direct replacement.

It is possible, and some of the first ones built did, use a normal tubed bicycle tire. We switched from those because under heavy use they did wear faster than we liked. So that is one option. I understand there maybe a website that carries solid tires that will work. Another option is to attempt to make a tire. The material should be available at a home repair store, if you took the tire in and tried to match the tubing. This is a last resort in my opinion but it is feasible.

Honestly I think I would try a normal tire or solid first. You should be able to remove the wheel and take it to a bicycle shop. It will need a liner to protect the inner tube. If you need I can walk you through removing and reinstalling the wheel.

As for the computer. For the life of me I can't remember the brand we used. I am guessing you have the handlebar mounted one with a small square head, as opposed to the fully computerised 2000 model.

Replacing it may be a bit of a problem. The computer set up was a stock bicycle computer. However we made a jumper wire to accomidate the length of the frame that plugged into the sensor lead and the computer mount.

As a stock item the sensor was connected to the mount so it involved cutting the wires, soldering connectors onto both the cut end of the mount and sensor. Then making another wire with connectors to run from under the seat along the frame and to where the sensor is mounted near the wheel. In theory any new bicycle computer could be used to replace the old one.

If you aren't up for that task, there's the possibility that there is some sort of wireless system available.

To install it you would need to lossen or remove the wheel cover to mount the other half of the sensor unit to the spokes. Depending on when the bike was manufactured this can range for very easy to a bit tricky.

Probably not everything you wanted to hear but I hope it helps

Cycling | Answered on Apr 24, 2017

Just multiply the number of cogs in the back by the number of chainrings in the front, or if the bike is not in your possession just ask the seller.

Schwinn Cycling | Answered on Apr 24, 2017

All bikes come with a free adjustment period, so just return it to the place you bought it. If you assembled it yourself you obviously should not have done so, and now will need to pay for assembly. Your description and knowledge level does not allow for instruction over the Internet to correct the problem.

Cycling | Answered on Apr 24, 2017

If there is no roughness in the bearings and no adjustment is required there is no need to dismantle. There is usually sufficient clearance between the crankshaft and the bearing cups to allow a low viscosity lubricant into the bearing when the machine is laid on it's side. Older high quality touring machines were actually fitted with a bottom bracket lubrication point...

Low viscosity oil is exactly what a bike/maintenance oriented/sporting type would want but for everyman everyday use grease is what is needed but grease won't go through the gap. I use an aerosol of cable, chain and bearing lube. When first sprayed from the can it is a thin black penetrating fluid but after it has been exposed to the atmosphere the solvent evaporates leaving a semi-liquid moly grease that is anti-fling and an excellent bearing lubricant.

Cycling | Answered on Apr 24, 2017

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