1998 problems with laverda 750s why does my bike not start first time and keeps cutting out, what are the most common problems with this model and how do i fix it

On older bikes the starter switch can start sticking and not fully return. The headlamp is commonly cut during starting to allow more power to the starter motor. But if the start switch does not fully return it can keep the headlamp off. Try juggling the switch with the bike running and see if the lights return. If they do then its time to take the switch apart and give it good cleaning and lubrication with electrolytic grease.

MGM

Jo - you need to explain what problems you are having!! The 1980 model had a cable operated mechanism. Vital that the clutch cable is smoothly routed with bends as big a radius as possible. Lubrication of clutch lever pivot and cable is vital too. Handlebar adjuster should be used to leave a small amount of slack. If the problem is getting the clutch to free off, then if the bike has been standing for a long time the plates can stick together. Have an answer for that...

how good is the battery check terminals are clean leads and all conections are good try remote battery and jump start it like a car if the problem goes away its your battery if not its the starter or solinoid or leads

try looking on e-bay for a book on your bikes or you could try to get a haynes service and repair manual
we call them " haynes the book of lies!" but they do help a bit so its realy unfair of us!!!

Can anyone advise where I can obtain a download or purchase a CD for F4 750S (2000 model) stripdown re-assembly and maintenance? The previous owner gave me a CD which contains:- 1. Owners manual. 2. Engine only stripdown and re-build (complete with poor photographs!) 3. Spare parts diagrams and part numbers. The above certainly seems to be taken from official MV sources and appears not to be a scanned in copy of MV documentation i.e. it seems to have been produced as a .pdf for printing off. I am really looking for detail like complete bike stripdown and re-assembly as well as basic maintenance such as chain tensioning brake pad and coolant replacement etc.do a search on the site for MV Agusta F4 750S Manual,,,

If you have guides allowing to fit them there should be no problem. There is only one type of 8mm guide seals for the whole 750s range. I think the original guides of early models didn’t have the possibility to fit them as they didn’t have a smaller diameter in that area. At those times many motocycles didn’t have them at all and it worked quite well I personally wouldn’t change the guides just for that. Aftermarket guides are only of the type that allows to fit the seals. ,,,

it had an incorrect seat on it and I would like to fit a bumstop style seat to the bike. It is different (slightly wider) than the later bikes. If anyody could help (even a loaner pan I could make a copy of)it would be appreciated. By the way I have some stuff from a crashed early 750GT that I have no use for and is available for trade or cheap. I don't have any bodyworkmainly forks. rear wheel airbox, that type stuff.,My memory of the 69 American Eagle is that it should have a locally made fibreglass tank, as that model was only a dressup bike done by Mr Mcormick of Continental Motorcycles. (he also badged up a British made moto crosser as an American Eagle, was it a Sprite or maybe and AJS Stormer) should be a slabby thing not unlike a cofin shape. Lance Weil of Ricky Racer had a couple a few years back and he is very near to you phone 1-800 Laverda, try him you never know.The seat should be the same width as the proper Laverda's (I think) It was only the 650 (42 in number) and the first 750 (the remaining batch up to 100) so another 58 that had the very first type chassis,quite a bit different in the way the tubes drop down to the swingarm pivot, or am I getting too much fuzz into the old grey matter, I could be wrong.,,,

Saddle Bags and a tank bag. I use RKA products which are excellent and have been using the same ones for a few years.,

and was wondering if other Zane riders have a view on what's good/not good? I'm looking for something most suitable for fast winding road use rather than mainly track. I had Dunlop 207's on mine and recently switched to Pirelli Dragon Supercorsa SC 2's. The the SC's are amazing,,

According to the repair guide the year 69 had frame numbers from 1650 to 2800 but this includes GT. The frame is different from SF frames,